Caboobaroo

Do you like the thought of replacing your engine numerous times? Do you like the thought of blowing it to little pieces? If so, go for it! On an EA71, not a smart move. Maybe if it was fuel injected, it would be a bit better because you could tune it easier.

the wiring harness is pretty basic since it has no ECM or fuel injection. Start looking under the dash or pull the dash out, which isn't hard either, and see what's going on. It might be behind the headlight switch since the main power wire to the switch has issues sometimes.

HA! Gotta convince him of that my friend;) My '78 brat will be lookin good next summer I hope though:D:D

New York!?!?!?! Some of those would be nice to have but alas, too far to pick up and shipping it all would be such a hassle, plus a ton of money.

Yup I should be there. LUVMYBRAT and I will hopefully both be there. One of us will be driving his cherry red brat and the other will be in a turbo coupe if we can get the engine swap finished by then, and he can get it registered:D

thats what I'm thinking! Mines going to be painted as well as the engine... Maybe even the driveshaft!

Well you need to realize that there's going to be a lot of work that you'll have to incorperate into this car. A turbo and intercooler arn't going to bolt right in. You'll also need exhaust (header and turbo back) coolant and oil lines for the turbo, piping for the intake and outlet sides of the turbo, piping for the intercooler, some sort of fuel management, and much more. If you do decide to go with it, you're reliability is going to go way down, along with fuel mileage. Best bet, find a wrecked Legacy SS with the EJ22T in it and swap it all over. Much more easier and will be more reliable. What your friend speaks of, is a manual boost controller, to adjust the output of the turbo. You can also get an electronic one and adjust it from inside the cab. So, you might as well buy the car and drive it as it is. I have a ton of money into an older turbo Subaru and it still isn't running right and isn't very reliable.

Yes its a fairly simple swap actually... Check out this thread for a bit of info and I'll also expand on it as well... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64249 The 1800 you refer to as, is an EA81 engine code. This engine will drop directly into the car without any modifcations. However, the tranny is another story. You'll need to figure out shift linakge since the linkages are mounted differently between an EA81 d/r and a EA71 (1600cc) single range. You COULD get an EA81 with a dual range in an '81 GL Brat which is still a gen 1 bodystyle. Also, I have heard that the front driver side axle will either rub or be very close to the steering column, right where it enters the front crossmember. The ideal swap for that, to get clearance, is a steering rack out of a '81 GL Brat with the EA81 in it. If the tranny might be a bit more then you want to handle, you can always swap the bellhousing on the EA71 engine, onto the EA81 engine and it willl bolt up directly to the tranny. I have swpaped an EA81 into a gen 1 Brat before but I haven't gotten my tranny in yet. I'm going to be using a single range 4wd 4-speed EA81 tranny. However, I'm not going to be using the fornt axles so I won't have to worry about the clearance issue. You can use your stock driveshaft and axles if you do swap the EA81 tranny into your car. Tranny mount should work but I can't say for sure.

You're going to want to get the intake harness from the XT if you haven't already. I have gotten one to work on my RX but since I have other issues with the car, she's not doing so hot. Basically on mine, I used a NA spyder intake which doesn't have the EGR valve like the turbo spyders, but it has the AAV on it as well. For some reason, I though when I pulled it, it had a knock sensor but when I went to install it, it wasn't there. I think I might have been imagining. Worst case senario, you'll have to do some repinning on the engine harness to get it to work, but its not too hard if you compare it with your stock harness. I had to wire in my knock sensor but I looked at the old harness to see which slots they went into. AS far as the XT6 TB, I haven't a clue...

If you can give me a couple pics of it laid out and how much of the harness you have, I can compare it to either one of my harnesses and my FSM and see what I can come up with!

so its the 23rd then? I'm going to change the headline of the thread to adjust for the date and such.

Like Jobs said, garner, who doesn't frequent this board very often, if at all, swapped an EA82T and pushbutton 4wd 5-speed into his gen 1 Brat. A lot of fab work and fitting that you have to do. The frame rails up front would have to b cut out a bit to make enough room for the valve covers. Here's a link to his pics... http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama I would go with an EA81 myself. The only problem with EA81Ts is the fact that its harder to find them and harder to find parts for them as well. I'm putting an EA81 and single range 4-speed into my gen 1 Brat since it is also a street Brat (lowered, shaved everything, the works). It'll be a direct bolt in procedure but the tranny mount I think is going to give me some issues. I got a welder though! I did have a high compression JDM EA71 in my Brat when I still had it on the road. Sold it though, which is a bummer... Here's my pics... http://rides.webshots.com/album/302432023YUcDSD

Hondasuck's first Subaru, which was an '87 STD hatchback, also had stars painted on the hood by him and another friend...

WOw, be glad it didn;t happen on your road trip out here or back. That could have been real nasty.... Then I think I'd be getting a PM about needing some help with it;) Shop's always open though:D

Well even wthe rubber line, if pinched off, will cause some major braking problems. It'll cause it to pull very hard the other direction, thus creating a larger hazard then a sticking caliper. Just pull the caliper off, grease the slides up a it and spray some WD-40 around the piston. Should help free it up a bit...

bah, the grapevine... what a wonderful place, especially in the middle of summer in a truck with nonfunctioning AC... Anyways, are you sure you blew a headgasket and not just overheated it to the point of fuel vapor lock? I think the reason why my RX was getting harder to start and didn't run as long was because it was getting to the point of vapor lock, and I'd shut it down before it would blow a headgasket. If she's not smoking, I'd start checking the coolant system for any signs of it blowing one. If not, you might be all right... Next time.. PULL OVER!

take it apart and check things out. I would recommend highly against crimping the brake line since it will do more harm then good, then buyer might be a bit pissed. Take it apart, make sure everything is cleaned up a bit, spray some WD-40 around the caliper boot and see what happens.

Ok sounds good. If you need some help with measurements, I have 2 gen 1 Brats I can get them from! Neither have any striping on them though...

Todd, can you have the GL stripe kit made as well for the Brat? Its the stripe, that besides the targa stripe, runs from the front fenders all the way around the back. Its the same kind of striping on Laura's Brat seen here... Let me know Todd as I am looking for a set for my Brat as well. Don't know what color I want to go with but I'm thinking silver...

Yup. Sounds like a plan. Since swapping an automatic into a 4wd gen 1 is a lot of work then learning how to drive a stick. Just make sure you have a couple new clutches and you get good at pulling the engine;)

Don't really need a press to do any of the fornt end work on it. However, the tie rod ends and the balljoints are going to be a bit tight so have a tie rod fork ready for action! The wheel bearings are more of a press in fit, BUT if you have a larger hammer and a chisel, pound them out on a work bench with the bearing not having anything touching it. Only do that though, if you're planning on replacing the bearings. Don't forget the wheel bearing seals! Oh and one other thought. Make sure that the caliper slide bolts are well greased up with brake caliper lube. You can used regular lithium grease but with them being closer to the pads and rotors, not a wise idea.

hate it bust your bubble but unless you want a 2wd Brat, you won't find an automatic 4wd tranny that'll bolt right in. You could put in an EA81 4wd automatic, but then you have the change the bellhousing on the engine and do some modifications to the body, as far as shifter linkage and whatnot. Also, why do you want an automatic Brat? They're gutless as it is and adding an automatic behind it will make it barely want to get out of its own way, let along, bu bye towing/hauling capabilities...

Sorry to give you the bad news but, from the sounds of it, its a headgasket. If it were an intake gasket, it would eat coolant into the intake and burn white smoke. Never fear though, headgaskets are fairly easy. Just search around! There's a few people who have asked how the easiest way to change a headgasket would be and stuff like that. Here's a quick rundown though. Pull the engine, best move you'll make. Then, pull the intake and the lines/electrical that goes with it. Set it aside but make sure you label where all the lines and connectors go! Then remove the valvecovers. Then the camcases. Then the heads. Swap in new headgaskets and reinstall heads, torquing to the required amount. Then install the camcases and valvecovers. Remember, the rockers WILL come out when removing the camcases so make sure you know which lifter they go on and use some assembly grease when installing them (just a dab on the lifter and stock the rocker too it). Then install the valvecovers. Required gaskets to do the job... valvecover gaskets and grommets, headsgaskets, and intake gaskets. Might as well, while its out, replace the exhaust gaskets if not done recently, and reseal the oilpump and oil pan. If the front and rear main seal look to be weeping a bit, might as well replace them too. If you've done one a basic reseal on a Subaru engine before, it'll take about a day to do. If not, a weekend if you have no problems with parts.

Also check the smoothness of the steering rack such as lateral play in the tie rods. I'd check the rag joint on the bottom of the steering column, where it meets the steering rack, for possible weakness.

Ok, finally decided she's not going to be on the backburner much longer. Since my RX is having serious problems, been thinking of parting it out and using some money from it to put back into the Brat. This winter, she'll hopefully get media blasted, bodywork done and painted. I have a complete EA81 with 100k miles on it which I recently did a full reseal, new oil and water pumps, and will be mated to a single range 4wd EA81 tranny. Thinking of a blue, probably a bit darker but not too dark. Now I just gotta source a few parts for it but I have most of the parts to put it back together. I'm excited!