Caboobaroo

Like GD said, thrust bearing wear is not extremely common but I do have an engine that has a lot of horizontal crank movement. Its so bad that when I had installed it into my '78 Brat (EA71 engine), it had a bad rod knock, when the clutch was pushed in, it went away. Ran great except for the knock and the faint smell of burning oil:rolleyes:

Taken from his info on the top corner of all of his posts... Join Date: May 1998 City: Sacramento State: California Age: 26 Posts: 13,381 iTrader: (8) Vehicles: '87 RX Modified, '84 GL Lifted Don't think its the '84 since its in pieces now I believe, so it's gotta be his '87 RX, EA82T

Have you tried that place in Denver yet? MWE axles, I believe is right next door to CCR. Heard some good things about their axles as well!

Yes, you can put 23 spline DOJs onto an XT6 axle. Also, a note was made in the USRM about swappage, under 5-lug conversion. Milesfox also said that you can use FWD manual axles since they have a 23 spline DOJ but you'd have to use the Legacy knuckles I think. I haven't done anything like that so I don't know from experience

Ricer.... I feel your pain Rob... I'm having cooling issues with my RX as well. Maybe its cause the black keeps all the heat in;)

Lookin good Tom! Last time I saw it was under a blue tarp on you trailer sitting next to your house. Its a great feeling when you can actually drive it again:D

argh, it has to be a weekend cause I don't feel like driving 3 hours again to hang out for 2, then drive 3 more hours home.... I did that when McBrat came into town, it sucked!

My answers in red, along with Brian's answers...

Not really. Subaru made their turbo engines (EA81T and EA82T) to be more fuel efficient then powerful. So, as always said POWER, RELIABILITY, CHEAP... pick two. You can get power and reliability but it won't be very cheap. As stated above... I have heard of people putting a turbo from an EA82T onto EA81Ts. They're about the same but the EA82T turbos are a lot easier to find and the earlier EA81Ts weren't oil and water cooled, just oil cooled. I know there was a recall on them but I cannot be for sure. You can, however, with the turbo engine being a lower compression, it'll feel like a Subaru engine running on 2, maybe 3 cylinders. Gutless and no torque. You can push out more boost, which will make more power, but remember, the more air you flow, the more fuel you should run. Without the fuel, it'll run lean and detonation can occur, causing holes in pistons. Might as well. If you don't feel like spending a ton of money on it for modifications, leave it stock. It'll go a lot more miles then modded. Remember, its a turbo. With the lower compression, the turbo must stay boosted at higher speeds to remain at the speed. Granted, a lower speed means lower boost to no boost at all, but the instant you hit boost, gas mileage drops.

I'll be there nexy year Brian! Since I'll only be a couple hours away from where ever we have it. I'm movin to Washington in June of '07! Yeah it sucks cause Hondasucks was supposed to get an engine from SubaruTex for me but he "didn't see him"... He was only driving the UltimateRX. I saw him, even though it was in pics!

Uhhh Jeff.... that guy lives in Central America so unless he drove all the way up here for a show..... that wasn't him Besides, that's Austin's old '80 I think GL wagon, also known as the Waterwagon since he got some pics of it when it was still powered by an EA81, going through a river. Even had 15" pug alloys on it

Which is why you take friends along to help you!

Yeah I'm thinkin about doin the swap myself...... bad me, baaaaaaad....

that sucks.... I'd so pimp that! If I'm lucky, I might be able to start restoring my Brat this winter:D:D:D

wire brush and a gasket scraper are your friends. If you have a wire wheel attachment for a drill, that makes it go a lot smoother.

Connie, if you don't have the special brake cube tool to screw the piston back into the caliper, use a pair of channel locks and screw it in basically by using the channel locks. I've done it a couple times myself.

Easiest way to unbolt the crank pulley, is by putting the car into 5th gear, and putting a breaker bar or a ratchet (both 1/2" drive) onto the crank pulley with the correct socket (I use a 7/8":rolleyes: ) and break that sucker loose. If the car tries to move on you, put the parking brake on as well. I don't have a parking brake so I pushed against the car while I broke it loose.

anything from '77 to '79 or till '81 Brats. If you still have the fuel tank from that parts Brat, just snag it out of there and put it in, should work fine unless its junk as well.

wow, this is an old thread. Anyways, yes you have to remove the crank pulley and radiator, makes it much more easier to get to things. ALso, you'll need to remove the outer timing bolt covers from the center and the driver side. Then remove the pulley from the waterpump, remove 5, maybe 6 10mm bolts from the waterpump, disconnect the tube form the top and the side and slide it on out. You don't have to get a new o-ring, I never did, Just get a little blue RTV sealant on it when you put it back together and stuff it back onto the waterpump. I never had a problem but its always a wise decision to make sure there's no cracks in it before reassembling it.

sounds like if the range covers '78-'87, its probable that they gave you EA82 axles instead. I've had that happen before as well so don't feel so bad. If you can get a couple CV stubs, put the fornt end back together with those and run in RWD, won't hurt it at all.

here's a thing for you to try if you haven't already. Unbolt the strut from the knuckle and reconnect your control arm. Then see about reconnecting the strut to the knuckle. Also, are you sure that the axle is all the way on the tranny? Sorry if it might sound like a dumb idea but I'm just trying to through possibilities out there for you.

Gary, she stated before she was replacing her brakes as they were shot. Connie, put the wheel back onto the hub and put the lugnuts back on. Lower the car onto the ground and put the car into gear (or park if its an auto). Then, get a 1/2" breakerbar with your 36mm socket, a large piece of pipe, and brak that sucker loose. It'll be the easiest way to do it while saving yourself some headaches. Granted, it seems like you're taking a step back, but it'll get you two steps forward in the long run. Also tighten the axle back up like this as well.

Then any EA81 or EA71 (gen 1) axle will work for it. You can put an EA81 axle into a gen 1 but not the other way around. The EA81 axle is about 3/4" longer then a gen 1 axle but they work.

well it also states that Tex used the rear backing plates from a Supra as well...

have you made sure the axle is pulled all the way through the hub? I know for a fact you can put EA81 axles into a gen 1 ('81 is still a gen 1 Brat). I had a set of EA81 front axles in my '79 4wd wagon.