Caboobaroo

Make sure the belt hasn't jumped and caused anything to bend. Also check the pistons too as the ringlands are known to let go and cause major blowby, especially when run hard.

I had the same issue on my old '78 Brat a few years ago. The fuel pump runs through the VR like you found out and a bad VR will cause the fuel pump to only run during cranking. The VR IIRC, gives the fuel pump a direct 12v while cranking but then goes through another system in the VR while the vehicle is running. It'll crank over until there's enough fuel in the bowl, car will run off of whats in the bowl the die as the fuel pump is not running.

All I did on my TD04 swap was take out the rear stud from the uppipe flange, bolt the TD04 onto the flange using the front two studs, then relocate the rear stud on the original EA82T flange. Then used a Megan Racing 3" bellmouth downpipe and it all fit perfectly.

Let me clarify a little bit of info since I have a similar swap as Turbone's but I opted for the EJ 5-speed instead of the RX box. In '85, '86 and the first half of the '87 build year, the trans tunnels were smaller then the '87.5 - 94 because they started using a 4EAT automatic which is a lot larger then the 3AT automatic. I have an early '87 EA82 coupe with the smaller trans tunnel. I was working on figuring out a way to bolt the tranny in with very little modifications. I went with a XT6 front trans crossmember, EJ center section and a 3AT crossmember which bolts into the rear location, then modified the rear crossmember to accept the EJ center section. A little cutting and drilling and I was done. If you have a later EA82 car, then you can use the XT6 rear section as well as the front without any modifcations.

I was in the process of shaving everything on my gen 1 Brat but all I had a pic of was the fenders after I filled in my side markers. I left the door handles but got rid of the trim mirrors and side marker lights.

The rear suspension is a similar design and I believe people have done a swap from EA81 to EA82 suspension but thats something you'll have to search for. You could use the EJ 5-speed as well but there again, you have more fab work to get it to fit correctly. Again, search for an EJ swap into an EA81 though I will let you know now, not a ton of people have put the EJ trans into an EA81 so finding the info will be harder to come by.

Well you have a couple different things going on here. Its easiest to do the 4wd conversion at the same time as the tranny, so then you're not trying to find a way to "make" the 4wd tranny work because well, there really isn't any way to make it work. To convert yours to a 4wd you'll need the whole rear suspension, axles and rear diff setup from an EA81. You'll also need the EA81 4wd gastank too as it has a recessed area for the rear diff. Jerry (Bratsrus1 or something like that) makes a kit to bolt the EA82 d/r 5-speed trans into an EA81 body and keep it stock looking. Then later you can do the EJ swap and the drivetrain behind it would be ready to go.

Pulling during accel and deccel is from a change in caster measurements. When the tire shifts back under accel, the caster lowers on that side causing the pull to go to that side. I would bet its going to be either ball joints or radius rod bushings. I almost never see a wobble caused by an alignment under braking. Its usually a pulsating rotor. If the rack bushings were the culprit, the OP would complain of the steering wheel being off center after going through a hard turn, will usually be off to the side they were just turning. If the tie rods/ends were worn out, it would cause a toe out issue while driving straight and cause the steering wheel to be off center as well.

I don't typically see these engines (EA71 and EA81) blow headgaskets as often as the EA82s, or crack heads for that matter. Probably a bad intake manifold gasket. Either a headgasket or a intake gasket, you still gotta remove the intake. Thats where I'd start.

This is why I recommend replacing the brake fluid once every other year unless you live in a very humid enviroment, then do it once a year. This includes removing the old fluid from the calipers too, not just sucking the master cylinder dry and putting new fluid in it.

You should be able to drive it for a bit but its like a timing belt thats over the recommended replacement mileage, just a ticking timebomb. Wait, would a hella boosted EA82T be more equivelant?

I bet I know what it is. I've only seen it a couple times in the almost 8 years I've been working on Subarus. If you have the valvecover off of the side thats full of water, check behind the rockers to see if it popped a freeze plug out of the head. My first Subaru was put in a field for 8 years before I got it because of the same issue. I replaced all the gaskets and freeze plugs and she ran like a champ. It was in a '83 FWD 5-speed GL hatchback. I traded it for my '79 4wd wagon later down the road.

Input shaft bearings. Both the little one in the front of the case and the fat one on the back of the input/mainshaft inside the transmission. It would do it at idle with the clutch out in neutral because the input shaft still spins in neutral with the clutch out. The counter shaft on the other hand, doesn't spin unless the vehicle is moving. I wonder if the PO did not replace the pilot bearing. I've seen them fail and cause a noise like this. A lot of people don't tend to replace them as they can be a pain if you can't/lazy enough to take the flywheel off. Just a couple of ideas:banana:

Believe it or not, thats not always the case. I've seen calipers barely starting to stick and all it really did was warp the rotor over time and caused the vehicle to pull to the side of the dragging caliper when the brakes were NOT applied. It was on a '98 Ford F-150 which are one of the common caliper sticking culprits.

Gary, if the entire clutch kit was replaced, it might not be a bad bearing... at least clutch bearing. My XT6 when I bought it, had a nasty bearing noise that I thought was clutch related. After I sold it to Rob, he replace the throwout bearing and the pilot bearing ang the noise was still there. Turns out it was inside the transmission. It did exactly what you're describing though.

Sending you a PM!

It can also be just a bad caliper. If enough moisture gets into the brake system over time, it'll start to rust the inside bores of the calipers (and master cylinder and brakes lines) causing the piston to stick while braking and not retract like it should. It'll be like having the brake lightly applied and eventually burn up the pads and rotor or worse, catch fire:eek:

Have you checked the fuel filter at all? This would be the first place to start. If that doesn't fix the issue, sounds like you either have a fuel pump having intermittent issues or the accellerator pump inside the carb is starting to die. If you already know you're having carb issues, have it rebuilt and see if it helps.

I said might

Well the time to part with this car might be near so keep an eye out for a FS thread in the classifieds eventually...... :banana:

I ran 160* t-stat in mine but I only ran it during the summer. There's no company that I know of that make better rods currently but I bet you might be able to get a company to make a few sets IF you have enough people that are willing (not wanting) to buy them. Same with the pistons and rings. Headgaskets.... Well I ran 12psi in my old RX on a SPFI (9.5:1 cr) shortblock with gen 3 turbo heads, TD04 turbo, AEM cold air intake, Megan Racing 3" bellmouth and so on and instead of blowing a headgasket, I blew the ringlands off of #3 piston. I used OEM headgaskets and torqued them down to 75 ft. lbs. roughly

I'm planning on reinforcing the top with the original piece I cut out and making it so the center is removable for removing of the radiator. I've also been toying with the idea of doing fender bracing and a few other bracing. This car has plans to eventually do some road racing. My girlfriend is excited to do some racing too:banana: There might be a slight cage involved later down the road too:slobber:

I have been in the very slow process of putting the EJ22T radiator into my RX. I got it with my swap, radiator is new as well, which is why I decided to go with it. Will get upgraded again eventually. I still need fans and to finish up the core support with the mounts but it seems to fit in there fairly nice. I modified the bottom of the core support to make room for the bigger radiator. The factory radiator sits on top of a boxed base so I cut the top and back side off of the "box" and dropped the radiator down another 2" or so. Then drilled some holes the size of the EJ22 radiator bushings so it would drop down another 1/2" I did this after i took the pics and I'm working on a way to make a support over the top of the radiator to keep it sturdy. I've also been toying with the idea of making a V-mount radiator and FMIC install as well but when I get more time to work on it, I'll keep designing it:rolleyes:

If the slides are starting to stick, you'd see the results in the pads. If the bottom was truely sticking, then the outside pad would be thicker on the bottom then the top, vise versa with the inside pad. What happens is the grease starts becoming more of a solid then a liquid which will start causing it to stick, then you get moisture in there causing rust. If you can get to them before the rust, make sure they have plenty of caliper lubricant (its on the counter of all major auto part stores) which isn't petroleum based, clean, relube and done!

I've seen these bearings plenty tight but howl like its going out of style. Done numerous bearings in the rears of a lot of EJ vehicles. Have both replaced, aligned, then you'll be set.