Caboobaroo

Yes it is a problem. You'll need to figure out how to shave off some of the bellhousing on the transmission but after you do it, you shouldn't have to ever mess with it again.

I'm also in the area and am also a mechanic at a local independent Subaru shop.

I should have the XT6 back up and running by then. I'll see if my roomate wants to come out for this as well.

I used JB Weld to put a brass fitting into the aluminum water cross over passage on my N/A XT spider intake a few years ago. I applied it with a toothpick so I could get an even amount around the base of the fitting, put it under the heater in a spare room for 24 hours and never had an issue. Its passed hands a couple times since I sold it and to my knowledge, it still working. If its prepped correctly and applied correctly, you can do quite a bit with it. I've also used JB Weld to fix pitted caliper piston bores on a '68 Buick as they were heavily pitted from corrosion.

That would be correct.

I typically go if I can. The Wednesday night meets have started back up again at the Dicks on Holman IIRC.

I also have the gold badge that was stolen off of it. Well a replacement one for it that the current owner was supposed to come by and get from me.

Steve, if you're having problems finding info for the car, I have a few of the FF1 FSMs at my house.

Never said it was a plug-n-play for the cluster. I did however, wire in the RX manual cluster into 2 different cars (one being my old RX with a 4EAT -> RX manual and the other being my '87 RX with a 3AT -> RX manual).

I have the dealer installed cruise system in my RX and I recently pulled it out while doing the EJ22T swap. Its all its own harness and lines and such. Completely separate from the other wiring harness.

With a frame buckle like that, I wouldn't feel safe driving it. If you try and repair it, then get into an accident, it can cause more harm then good. As a professional body tech, I would replace it if it came in to be repaired. My $0.02, go find one thats more of a parts car, cut out the whole corner of the car and splice it into your body if its worth keeping.

I currently have some cheaper ebay "projectors" in my XT6 and they're nowhere near powerful enough at night. It might not be as easy to swap in the BMW projectors or even source them up from a wrecking yard but I personally would do that kind of swap myself. It also gives you better housings then the ebay lights and you can even do an HID upgrade to them fairly easily.

I was planning on getting some BMW projector headlights from a late 80's model (can't remember which ones right now) since they are roughly the same size. I believe you'll have to modify the core support a bit to make the buckets fit as they are larger then the factory. Hopefully that helps a bit for an upgrade!

Here's the list: Transmission w/ shift linkages Driveline (really just the front section of the two piece but the whole thing is easier to pull from the donor car) Pedal cluster w/ clutch cable Flywheel and clutch assembly (make sure you get the flywheel bolts too as the flexplate bolts are shorter) Instrument cluster (if you want to get rid of the shift indicator) Crossmember (these are different between the 3AT and a 5-speed) That should be it. If for some reason I remember something (I did this swap from a FWD 3AT to an RX gearbox) I'll edit my post and add the information.

Typically on Subarus, if its there, it needs it.

I will pull my FSMs out later and see if they give dimensions.

Don't see why not. Is the coupe a stage 2? It should bolt in AFAIK

I put a set of 05 STi seats into my '87 RX using the factory EA82 rails that I welded 1/4" steel flat stock onto for tabs to bolt to the seats.

I have seen a spray that will give you the white lettering effect but you have to mask off all the letters before you spray it. I don't remember what it was called or where you can get it. All I know is that its out there somewhere...

This... I tend to see this quite a bit and even on new axles, it can cause a noise from the boot folds rubbing on itself. Spray it down with a little bit of silicone spray and go for a drive.

you have a picture to show us? Its been a few years since I dabbled around in gen 1 cars.

I saw a guy on NASIOC that cleaned his tranny, diff and driveline and painted them Cherry Blossom Red (STi pink). Not my color of choice but he did a real good thorough job of it with a great write-up on his cleaning and the chemicals he used.

I've used RTV on the mickey mouse gaskets numerous times before but I put just a glaze on it to get it to stick, never overdone. Just the tiniest amount is what works, not globs of it. Have seen someone reseal an oilpan using too much RTV and when it flaked off inside the pan, it got sucked up onto the pickup screen and starved the engine of oil...

Check the flatness of the flanges on the y-pipe and the flatness on the bottom of the heads.

Even if its an oilpump that has too big of tolerances, you can usually find a new one for pretty cheap. Last one I got was for an EA82T a few years ago from www.thepartsbin.com and it cost me $90 AND turned out to be an OEM pump, still in the OEM box!