rweddy

This is the way I always get mine off, bump trick, no special tools needed.

Sorry this was for ericem

Think about the time you are putting into the project, and what your time is worth. I tried non-oem once on my old 88 GL and ended up doing the job three times becuase the after market stuff is junk. For timing belt, seals, etc. stay away from the aftermarket. For starters, alt, pumps etc go for it. My .153 cents

Do you really need oem hub caps? If so let me know I have some.

Sorry I ment waiting a bit to do it all. I am going to do timing belt, cam, crank, oil pump seals, etc. but wanted to wait until summer to do this. But wanted to make sure this small leak would not ruin his belt if I do not get to it for 6 months.

Yes that is what I used. figured out what the is was though. The door squeaking is missing the rubber around the door stricker on the body side of the car. Put same duck tape on it and good to go.

Any ideas on what would make a door squeak on a legacy? I took the cover off and tightened all the bolts but it has this very annoying rattle/squeak that I cannot seem to find.

That is a nice score!

My brothers car is leaking oil (slightly) from the cam seals and oil pump. I was going to do the timing belt this summer. Is there an issue with the oil getting onto the timing belt and hurting it? This is not a huge leak.

Synthetic oil causing oil leaks is a commonly spread myth. The truth of the matter is that if all your engine seals and gaskets are in good condition, synthetic oil will NOT leak in your engine. The myth started because on occasion, an engine will leak with synthetic oil, but not dino oil. The reason for this is that the smaller molecules of the synthetic are able to get past very small crevices, where the larger molecules of dino oil cannot. But this does not mean that the synthetic oil has caused the leak, it simply has "discovered" an infant leak, and regardless of what oil you are running, this infant leak will eventually grow to a size that will allow dino oil to occupy and pass also. Synthetic oil has not been shown to deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. It is not some evil solvent that will break down sealant, or anything like that.

Why 5w30 and not 10w30?

Remember the tranny/diff share the fluid. MT90 is not good for diffs. The only good tranny syn fluids to use in a subaru tranny are Redline 75W90NS or Castrol TAF-X/"Syntorq" (but this is not easy to find in the states) I asked Redline about MT-90 and they told me this: In your Subaru transaxle where the GL-5 gear lube is called for I would recommend the 75W90NS, I would expect the shiftability to be close to the MT-90. The NS fluids have no friction modifier so are not to slippery for the synchros the problem with most GL-5 gear oils. The 75W90 would be suitable for the rear differential. Regards, Dave Red Line Oil

Why would you say no benefits? I have never had any seal issues with my change overs and I have done it to all 12 of my roos. Longer change intervals, increased gas mileage, better cold start ups, etc. I do agree about doing a dyno oil change first, see if it leaks or burns a lot then go from there.

I do this to all my subaru and I rarely own any with under 100k. Never had any issues at all. And this will add 1-2 mpg also. Just don't use mobil 1 or any other non gl4 rated synthetic in the tranny unless you want crunchy shifting

And this is why Honda,Volvo, Ford, etc systems are inferior to Subaru. These vehicles have to slip to active their awd systems. So you go around an icy corner, the front starts slipping you slide then the AWD kicks in causing you to over correct and you end up in a ditch or worse. Audi and Subaru full time AWD system is much better then those, the manual 50/50 being the best.

Great thanks for the response. They are both wagons so this should make it bit easier. I am not sure if it will be worth the work since neither car is that great of shape or mileage. We might just part out his 90 and find a replacement.

We either way we go I will be parting the car out, it is in really good shape other than the front suspension!

Thanks, I looked at his site. But this was also a Auto to 5spd conversion. I am hoping 5sp to 5sp would be less work??

Ok so my brother crashed his 90 Legacy last night, came around a corner, hit sand and slammed into the curb at 40mpg. So Major front end damage . This car is a 90 AWD five speed. So we found a 92 5 spd FWD wagon that we want to convert to AWD using the parts from his crashed 90. I think all we will need to change is the tranny/trans axle and the rear end? Am I missing anything here?

Most car sites talk about the forester as the alt. lifestyle choice. http://www.bangkokpost.net/290906_Motoring/29Sep2006_motor004.php

You are welcome, if you get into this job and get stuck or have ?? before let me know.

Here is the complete list of parts. QTY_____Part #__________Description__________Unit______Ext___ 1 21200AA072 Thermostat 9.19 9.19 1 21236AA010 Thermostat Gasket 2.49 2.49 1 21111AA007 Water Pump 66.71 66.71 1 21114AA051 Water Pump Gasket 1.91 1.91 1 13028AA102 Timing Belt 44.96 44.96 2 13294AA012 Gasket Rocket Cover 10.46 20.92 6 13271AA051 Washer Rocker Cover 2.21 13.26 2 806732150 Camshaft Oil Seal 6.02 12.04 2 806946030 Camshaft Housing O-Ring 2.89 5.78 1 806733030 Oil Seal (Crank) 5.38 5.38 1 806919050 O-Ring (Oil Pump) 1.93 1.93 1 45167AA030 Radiator Hose Lower 10.00 10.00 1 45113GA022 Radiator Cap 10.13 10.13 1 45167AA020 Radiator Hose Upper 10.00 10.00 1 13586AA041 Sealing Belt Cover No2 6.45 6.45 1 13581AA050 Sealing Belt Cover R 14.57 14.57 1 13594AA041 Front Cover Seal 15.28 15.28 1 807615081 WP Bypass Hose 7.46 7.46 1 806923060 O-Ring (not sure) 2.23 2.23 1 11810AA000 PCV Valve 6.75 6.75 1 73323AC000 Drive Belt 7.46 7.46 1 809218270 Drive Belt 8.06 8.06 Total $282.96

That looks clean, might go this way. Are those head light washers on your bumper also?

What is the best way to install these lights on a 1st generation legacy? Anyone have these installed with any pictures?

You can do this with out any special tools other than a good socket set, long breaker bar, dead blow hammer. Do not be afraid, if you have any skills this is not that hard, should take less than one day to be done.