rweddy

Well bad news the block is cracked. He has limited funds but I am hopeing he can afford a ccr crate motor, but if not we will have to find a junk yard motor for him. I still am shocked that a 91 2.2 blew the HG like this.

Yea that is what I thought also. Now next quesiton, should he get a new motor or can he just replace the HG and the motor be good for another 150k? He did not overheat the motor too bad, it ran close to the red, then he shut it down.

My brothers HG is in 91 wagon just blew the headgaskets at 150k. I am out of town for 2 weeks so he is going to have to have a shop fix this. The shop told him that 90-91 2.2 are notorious for blowing headgaskets. Anyone ever heard this before??

2.2 do not have piston slap, that is a fun 2.5 trait. This is a lifter noise and I am wondering if will freeze up on me.

The MMO had no effect, good or bad same as it was before. What about sea foam? Might this help?

Well the tick did not go away. Still have it when it is cold, but only for a few seconds. Is the noise mean trouble is comming?

Yea the car was purchased about 2 months ago. Check it out a local shop and I gave it an eyeball. The car has new waterpump, radiator, etc. The overflow tank does get a few bubbles and fills up with fluid.

NA

OK update, put in new Subaru thermostat and cap. Followed my normal fill routine, proper burping sequence. Now this is still overflowing the overflow tank and the upper radiator hose is very hard, like it is full of air. I release the pressure valve on the radiator tank and gas goes out and the hose is soft again. But when I feel the top hose it is super hot and I can feel the fluid boiling inside the hose. I am afraid of this diagnostic but I think he has a Head Gasket leak. Could this be true on a 2.2 motor with a measly 150,000 miles???:mad:

Great advise, I will do all of these tonight and post back. Thanks!!

Ok need some advise here. Issue is my brothers 91 2.2 is over heating, we flushed the system, put in new fluid. The car will not burp itself, I know the drill (I have owned 12 Subarus) but this will not burp. What happens is the car will not overheat for a few day, then slowly the overflow tank start filling up and will not suck back in? The car has an aftermarket thermostat, has two holes drilled in it. Also has an after market water pump from previous owner. Could the fins be wrong on the pump causing flow to be going the wrong way? Any ideas on this?

did not know they made BFG ATs in 205s. I am still concerned about the gearing since you have an outback so the gearing is lower than my legacy.

Anyone in Colorado running larger than stock tires on factory gears? I want to put in outback struts and run 215/75/R15 BFG ATs. How much will these affect the performance? Anyone in Colorado have this combo, how is it up I-70? The stock 2.2 is not much of an uphill burner as it is.

I was having a discussion with another engineer at work today about mixture percentages with anti-freeze. He is the Porsche club and have they run 20% anti freeze 80% water. He says they do this since water has better cooling properties than anti freeze. I have always ran 50/50 but he says this is a waste and not a good mixture level for Colorado. Thoughts??

I think they are messing with you since you are not from the states! Here is the email back from redline on this topic. >Request Type : Technical Request >Message : Hello > >I am trying to figure out what type fluid I should run in my vehicle >manual transmissions. I have used your MT-90 in multiple vehicles >with great success. > >My question revolves around running a GL4 transmission fluid in a >Subaru where the transmission and front differential share the fluid. > >The factory recommends using GL5 fluid but I have run GL4 in most >all my manual box and the difference between running GL5 and GL4 is >night and day, with the GL4 working sooo much better. > >What type of fluid would you recommend I run in a Subaru with shared >transmission and front differential? > >Thanks Richard, In your Subaru transaxle where the GL-5 gear lube is called for I would recommend the 75W90NS, I would expect the shiftability to be close to the MT-90. The NS fluids have no friction modifier so are not to slippery for the synchros the problem with most GL-5 gear oils. The 75W90 would be suitable for the rear differential. Regards, Dave Red Line Oil

Looks like a nice outback, welcome to the board.

You cannot get a 1st gen turbo sedan without auto seatbelts, these were only made from 91-94 and all these years had the auto seat belts. These are pretty rare cars, so it might take a while to find.

The bottle says to put in an entire quart. So I put in a little under 1/2 quart.

I am adding MMO in mine today, I will update if I get the noise back. Like I said before I get noise about once every 3-4 weeks for about 10-15 seconds. As a side note, anyone see any issues with adding 1/2 quart of MMO with Mobil 1??

Old wives tale, this was before all oils had detergents. Synthetic can cause some leaking but this is only in very old cars, 70s or older. I switch all my cars trucks over when I get them and I rarely buy cars/trucks with under 100k. Synthetic is great for both new and old cars, and I have run all my roos on the stuff & get about 2 more mpg.

How long did this fix it? I have this noise also about once every few weeks, for 20 seconds or so. Scares the crap out of me each time it does it. I started running Mobil 1 but still getting the noise, more frequent when it is cold. Anybody change out their HLAs? How how much$$ hard was it? My 91 2.2 LS wagon has 153k on the clock.

Mine move up a bit also, but is opens, closes fine. And there is no leaks so if it isn't broke don't.....

Huh??? Oil pump are great on the 2.2 they do leak oil and the backing screws work themselves loose but this is an easy fix. I have had several 2.2 that original pump went well over 200k.

Be very careful where/who you have do the flush. Make sure they machine uses the cars transmission to pump the fluid rather then the machines motor. This is what damages most transmissions is the high pressure most flush machines use. Most cheap shops quickie lube, jiffy, etc use the machines with high pressure that will ruin your transmission.

Get a factory service manual off ebay or craigs list. This is soo much better than hayes or chiltons. Not too bad of work if you have some tools and skill.