greenleg88

mm..... that does sound like an unpleasant problem to have... so the clutch pack is like 5-600 to replace? i was trying to change the atf this afternoon but the drain plug on the pan is SOOOOOOO tight... it bent the ratchet when i tried loosening it... im putting it up on my friends lift in the morning and putting a six foot pipe to the ratchet...

alright thanks a lot. so what is it only bad when the stutter happens? or is it really happening all the time? cept i just dont notice it? when is it doing ht emost damage to the car? Thanks in advance

hmm.. well then in that case.. how sure are you all that it is torque bind... cuz i recall someone saying that if i put the fuse in the fwd socket and the stutter goes away.... than it is torque bind.. although i understand all the symtpons point to torque bind, when i put hte fuse in and drove hte car, the stutter was still there... does that indicate something else? i really just need the car for another year or two.. and i REALLY REALLY dont want to drop 600+ dollars to fix it if someone believes it could make it.. i just put 700 into fixing all sorts of oil leaks. and i would realyl rather save the money if at all possible.

hey thanks for the info, and im not 100% sure if it still does the same thing when i install a fuse and back out of my driveway... i know that theres a stuttering which i also started a thread about... and i know the stutter doesnt go away when i put the fuse in and turn in a tight circle... and how important is it to fix this? if i just drive on it for about another 20k miles... would that be bad.......?

hmm thats an intersting thought about the fwd to save gas.. anywhos... so i did like suggested. i took a 10amp fuse and put it in the fwd socket. and the car def felt like it was fwd.. but i do not recall seeing a fwd light come on on the dash.... nor was i really looking for one.. but none the less.. the stuttering was still there.. perhaps i didnt use the right fuse? and maybe i was wrong about it acutally being in front wheel drive? im not sure.. in the event that i did it correctly... what does that mean now? someone said if it goes away its torque bind.. so im guessing its not torque bind... and that ive got another problem to diagnose.... i havent really driven it much in the last two days... i havent had a chance to change the fluid yet...

when i reverse out of my driveway.. as soon as i turn the wheel.. it feels liek the tires in the front lock up. and the car slows down a lot... why is that?

that was cool.. but i got linked to this video.. and HOLYYY SHNAPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is NUTS! http://jalopnik.com/400362/volvo-safety-center-crashes-cars-and-rides-on-air

when im backing out of a spot, it feels liek there is resistance but im rarely backing up at a speed where the stutter happens. how much is it to change that solenoid?

hmm thanks for the info. so... does that fwd fuse make the car work as just fwd.... would it be bad to drive the car like that all the time?

had TB? and i have no idea when the last time it was changed. i just got hte car. it has 150k miles on it. all i know is that it hasnt had one between about 120 till now. i guess its time?

first thanks for the response. -all the tires are at 35. ive checked that many times. -where is that fwd fuse holder? is that the thing that says FWD in the top left corner of the engine bay when facing the front of the car?

in my 97 legacy sedan, when i make a tight turn slowly. the car will stutter sometimes.. it feels liek thers somethign rubbing but the entire car vibrates. the vibration feels liek its coming from somewhere under the console... ive noticed a few times. that it generally only happens as soon as the car shifts into second gear and starts stuttering from there. a mechanic said it coudl be the axle but i said if it was the stutter woudl be there all the time.. and i thought it could be tie rods or ball joints.. when the car is off the groudn the tires arent loose so its not hte tie rods.. i thought maybe its the diff slipping or something... Any ideas? thanks for the help Fred

hi, in my 97 legacy L sedan when i start the car the AT oil temp light flashes im not sure what that is.. im assuming auto tranny fluid temp.. i was going to drain it fill it, drive it drain it then fill it a few times to change up the fluid. is that hte correct way to do it? what does the light mean? and why is it on...? sometimes the cars shifts are very clunky... liek itll feel liek someone just dumped the clutch when it shifts sometimes.. but that is generally only when im barely on the gas... when i am reving it higher, it usually shifts a little smoother... ALSO the clunkiness isnt always there. i do believe ive noticed it is mostly there once ive driven the car for a bit before hand. when i start it cold, it generally doesnt have that problem. could that be the oil is too hot and causing it to shift clunky? when i put the car in park or pull it out of park or from drive to reverse or any variation.. theres a boom sound like somethings hitting hard.. or it sounds like im doing a neutral drop.. then when im done driving, ill put it in park and after i let go of the brake in park the car will roll as usual.. but then when i shut the car off.. the car will roll once again. and the roll after i shut the car off is always more dramatic than the amount of roll when i relase the brake in park. what could these symptoms be? Thanks a lot for any help. Fred

hmm. this is intersting. i was just looking for a mechanic the other day.. i found an incredibly helpful and honest mechanic in oakland california... i found him on yelp.com too bad not that many people use it around here. btw.. the mechanic i found in oakland is named xiao. he works at xyz motors. i think hes on 30th street. right by the mercedes dealership... just google the shop name.. if you live near oakland.. he is truly the most incredibly helpful and honest mechanic ive ever met. he explains everything and his prices are great.

its just the door thats damaged. im getting a new door when i come across one. but untill then i took that little nub out... the door closes perfectly now... its just that when the door got hit. it bent out the edge at that spot.. and thats why it contacts... no biggy. thanks a lot

Thanks!!!!

on my 97 legacy sedan someone hit the rear right panel of the door. and the door is now bent and binds on plastic piece in the door way. what does this plastic piece do? what would happen if i took it off. (temporarily) picture ==> http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6446/photo5gs7.jpg thanks

isnt that normal in all automatics... its the car resting on park. and it rolls that inch or two till the gear hooks....

what was the temperature outside?

hokay so, i talked to this awesome mechanic. he said it was possible the car had just run out of freon from being 11 years old. and being used a lot since its in a hot area. he recommended i just try a can and if that didnt work bring it in. he said that if the car was just low on freon that the can would work. but if it was pretty much empty than it might not work because there woudl be so much air in the system.

97 subaru legacy L sedan 146k miles I have no idea how to describe it... the car starts. but right as its turning over or perhaps a second before it turns over... it makes a weird noise that i guess sounds like the car is starting.. but right before it turns.. it sorta pauses and makes a sound as if the battery is dead and then suddenly goes VROOM. thats the best i can do... its happened once today.. and about an hour later. another two times.. and then hasnt happened since. hopefully i can get a recording or better description. any help is appreciated. the cars about to go on a long road trip. Thanks!

can someone direct me on a proper freon charge. i went to a mechanic he said to just add a can. so i bought this can and it came with this gauge that has low, full, alert, and danger all along the gauge. what is the psi that the low pressure valve should be reading? im trying to do a charge. cept the gauge is saying its in the danger zone and im not sure whether or not to continue. i JUST read that people were saying to ignore the colors.. and just look at hte numbers.. and that youre supposed to take the temperature... and add 23 and thats the psi to fill to... im really not sure.. also. i read on the back of the can, depending on the temperature of the air around the AC the low pressure range is different. what should i fill to? thanks!

i just went to the dealership.. the other recalls were already done on the car says the subaru database. they said my car wasnt affected based on the vin number. and they wouldnt fix it. i bought the switch for 20 bucks. i didnt feel like dealing with them anymore. its an easy fix. problem solved. thanks for all the help

i just called subaru of downtown oakland... and gave em the last 8 of the vin.. and they said the hazards switch isnt listed as on recall... they said there was a recall on the throttle body... anyone know what thats about?

mine need some adjustment... there is more pressure coming out of one hole than the other... there are two holes in each nozzle. the left nozzle works fine. the right nozzle, the far hole shoots out with more pressure. how can i adjust it to be equal and aim higher on the windshield?