greenleg88

i had this problem with a toyota... i thought it was an issue with the pressure int eh tank so if you started the car wiht the gas cap open, it would eventually fix the problem.. either it worked for me or it was coincidence..

thanks. so i have a sedan.. so your saying in the trunk right.. not under the back seat....?

yeah... i waste a lot of gas driving in the snow..... im pretty mechanical i suppose.. and if not im a fast learner.. in school for mechanical engineering so im looking to learn. i put bottle of techron before i drove back to ny from california.. and changed the fuel filter about two months ago.. so how do i go about checking...? thanks!

hmm. my car is REALLY inconsistent with gas mileage... its ranged from like 200 to 300 a tank.. i drove from long island to rochester last weekend and all highway i got 310 miles on the tank.. when im driving around town.. i expect to get only like ~250 miles per tank right now its about 170 at 3/4 of a tank.. sometimes it is on but is on very faint at about this level.. normally when the gas light comes on at a level i would consider appropriate, i end up putting in about 10 gallons in the tank.

any idea why my gas light goes on at like 1/4 tank....? isnt that way higher than it shoudl ever be for the gas light to come on...? its only when the car just starts for thje most part... itll flicker while driving sometimes...

is there an aamco around you? take it there. theyll read the codes for free.. and by that i mean theyll run a free diagnostics on everything. and theyll find the code. it should be free... or it might just be the shop around me. i had a transmission code that other obd2 scanners couldnt find.. and the aamco shop by me foudn it..

hm aright. its not a subaru. but it doesnt crank faster than normal. and i cant see.. i cant imagine it is.. the car was reported to have been running normal and it was parked for two days and now this..

hokay thanks for that little lesson then.. what about if the engine is flooded with fuel... if pull a spark plug and its all wet from being over cranked.. then what needs to be done? i guess ill either be getting spark or a flooded engine..

this is about a honda accord but the troubleshooting should be similar. the car wont start. and its not the battery or starter. the battery is full of life and can crank for a long time. it is not my car so i dont know how long it was cranked for or how many times. i think the longest crank was 10 seconds. no fuses in the fuse box in the engine bay appeared blown. if the fuel pump is working then the engine may be flooded. - what does that mean? whats the next step if that is true? how do how do i test the coil pack? im guessing pop off one of the spark plug wires... and touch a positive multimeter to the coil and ground the negative side or to the negative terminal.. is that correct? any other first things to look for when a car doesnt start? Thanks in advance!

hahah clutch less shifting would make driving a bit more fun too - you could learn on my room mates car.. hah - it pains me to know that people like him drive stick. i cant even stand to be within earshot of his car while he is driving it.. but i think learning to heel to is much more fun and useful so just keep practicing and think about what is going on as youre doing it.. youll get it pretty soon.. try under revving and over and just vary it up a few times.. youll get it. it really be that bad unless your over reving by liek 3000 rpm where the amount of torque being put down is putting strain on your drivetrain cuz it cant break the tires free. its really hard to get it 100% of the time anyway. gluck!

aright that sounds good. but where is it located? i cant find it in the manuals i have... mines broken up into a bunch of pdfs and its taking forever to find it..

ohhh i was kinda confused.. i didnt really know what lean coolant could have meant.. i was actually already thinking of finding a way to get an air fuel gauge.. but i dont want to go through all the hassle of wiring one to the o2 sensor.. is there an obd2 scanner that just pulls the data?

the coolant is 50 50 right now.. would that be considered too lean for single digit weather? i had put that in when it was in the 90s out.. and i really had been happy to forget what the cold was like... ive also noticed the overflow isnt full.. its at about 1/3 of max. would that make a difference...?

hm i dont see how the coolant temp sensor can cause a lack of throttle response in the cold.. but i guess ill look into that...

youre talking about rev matching. it bothers me when these stupid movies talk about double clutching as if these cars have no syncros. and i would say its okay to not double clutch as theyre there for a reason and are going to be worn. you really just have to get to know your gears... just practice reving it a little bit in the time between you shift from 5 to 4 or 4 to 3 or something.. once you learn where it should be youll get better at it.. so even dumping the clutch wouldnt realyl hurt it because its not putting any more strain than there was already since the rpms are matched. i wouldnt say its good for it until you get it right though.. cuz then if you over rev it and pop clutch then its just potentially more torque going through the drive train but still doesnt have the power to break the tires loose so it just strains the whole system.

right right. thats what i meant* i couldnt think of the words.

eh... idk if collison would be the one... youre better off saying it was vandalism... not that im saying you should.. cuz.. thats lying.. and thats bad.

if i let it warm up for a good amount of time itll react normally. but i was just moving it when it was cold a few times and i noticed this odd behavior...

yes. it idles aroudn 1500 cold. once i tap the gas it drops to 900 regardless of how long it has been warming up. it revs normalish in park or neutral when it starts cold it sounds a little funny.. im not realyl sure how to describe it. it just sounds liek its gargling a bit for the first few seconds after it turns over.

?

i was looking at the way they did the study.. i wondered if they looked at statistics across the country or looked at a percentage and then multiplied it to match the us numbers.. the reason i question this is because the article said san francisco. and there are an INSANE number of outbacks in san francisco... i think that would skew the numbers a little bit. plus i feel liek cops in san francisco are biased against hummers anyway.. so depending on how this study was done.. it can be off..

im a fan of the michelin wipers i got from wal mart. i put em on for a road trip cross country. with lots of sand grit.. and through a pretty rough winter so far and theyre holding up a lot better than i had expected. just the regular 7 dollar ones. not the 20 dollar radius ones...

when i start my car dead cold.. sometimes ill put the car in D and go to gas.. but theres no response.. sometimes i can put the pedal down a little more and it just feels liek the car is running leaner and is about to choke. that would be the throttle body position sensor not working right? theres no CEL. and no codes stored in memory.

97 legacy L sedan A/T hi, does anyone know about the brake light fuse? im looking for the one that is for the high mount as well as the two combo bulbs i looked and believe it is fuse 30... but according to a subaru manual... it says it controls the brake switch and pedal stroke switch so does that mean if that fuse were out, i wouldnt be able to shift out of park because of the brake switch not getting power? i thought the fuse would control JUST the brake lights.

all pump gas contains at the least a bit of ethanol..... and what about the injectors?