greenleg88

i did. i followed what the other posters directed me to. I took off the intake. and found htat rubber piece. Stuck a tire iron into the slot to lock the driveplate in place and the torqued the pulley to 100 lbs. its spinning like normal now. and that sound is gone.

ALL DONE! its all better now. i just tightened the belt back to where it was.. there was dirt on the screw... so i could tell where it was.... so i was pretty close to where it was before i took the belt off. thanks for all the help!

okay. thanks for all that. ill try to get all that done soon.. can someone tell me how taught the belt is supposed to be.. how much deflection? my friend did it based on feel.. but id rather have something more reassuring. if possible..

okay so i just went down to begin.. but first i just checked the tighness of the bolt holding the pulley on.. and it came loose without any effort. upon tightening the whole system just spins.. i remember we put my friends car in gear. but i have an automatic...

alright. well ill get on that asap. just so i know. how much belt deflection should i be tensioning the belt to? i dont see a value in this haynes manual.. and someone said 140 lb for the crank pulley i see in the FSM Tightening torque: N⋅m (kg-m, ft-lb) T2: 127±10 (13.0±1.0, 94±7) so 94 +/- 7 ...? i actually didn't find anything in the haynes..

can i? yes, ive done done part of the work when my friend put on a lightweight crank pulley on his subaru.

oh. okay. i just didn't know that it was referred to as a vibration damper. i had just heard it called the crank pulley and the harmonic balancer... alright.. so what do you suggest? i have it towed to a dealer? preferably i would just get it to a small shop around here.. what do you expect to be the outcome... and perhaps the cost.. im just a really broke college student..

so you feel if i just loosen the tensioner.. take the pulley off.. inspect. and if it checks out throw it back on and make sure i torque it to 140 i should be aright then? otherwise get a new pulley?

the car has 158k miles. just found the reciept and realized at 144k the timing belt was also done with the crank seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket since then, the oil leak at the crank seal has come back. what is a vibration damper? - is that the rubber around the pulley? my initial thought would have described it as a rattle. and the car hasn't been driven in a few days. i just started it to do a slight inspection of everything and perhaps do the oil change. i have to drive the 380 miles back home to long island this saturday.... but i just ran into that popped tire and now this.... thanks for all the help! if that rubber around the center of the pulley is the culprit.. does that explain why the belts have been squeaking so much recently...? especially when the AC turns on..?

from visual inspection on my 97 legacy L the crank pulley doesn't look like its rotating aroudn its center. it looks like its wobbling.. should i be concerned? also when it was revved this morning.. right as its getting back to about 1100 rpm it sounds like somethign in the engine bay that is spinning. is loose and settling back into position as it slows... honestly i have no idea what im talking about but it sounded liek it was coming from inside the block....

alright last question before i get a tire for real... i dont think it was clearly stated... is this requirement just on rear axles? what if theres two tires of different circumferences on the front wheels. Thanks a ton.

hmm.. so what if this car wasnt a 97 legacy .. and it was like an 06 sti with a limited slip diff.. how different would the situation be then? wouldn't the circumference of the tire not matter so much because the diff could handle the change? what about when my car is going over sand on one wheel and gets traction on the other... then doesn't one wheel spin faster than the other then? what happens to the diff then?

indeed all wheel drive. i found a tire with the same circumference. but its got uneven tread wear.. looking for something better.. but i might just end up having to use this..

wow. well im shooting for a near identical size tire. how critical is tire height on a front wheel drive car...? or what if i were to just throw the fronts on the back.. so theyre same height and have a slightly different height tire on the front.? is that any better? ideally im going for the same size..

what do you mean 1/4 the circumference? im looking for a tire preferably of the same treadwear. or closest to the one that just popped.

yes its an auto ...?why is it more urgent if i had a stick? and why would the fwd fuse help? cuz of the different rotation speed? im working on getting a tire today. *hmm thanks for that hint. i prolly wouldnt have thought of that. but it helped but is still there... just less it seems... if at all different...* theres still strange road noise. i guess i wont know till i put on a more permanant tire....

my rear right tire popped from a pothole... i put the donut on.. and now it vibrates during accleration. its gone by the time i hit 25-30.. and its only during accleration.. im hoping its because the donut isnt balanced? theres also a rubbing sound or something coming from back there.. but i cant tell what i is.. possibly brakes... but im not sure.. anyone have any idea what i might be looking at... thanks.

i dont know why. that was kinda part of my question too.

when was the last time that happened? im up for a group buy...

hmm.. now that i think about it.. i dont think i even have a washer in there..........................

i didnt have the manual on hand at the time... and somebody said this car needed platinums... at least... and i dont remember putting those in originally.. they said platinums have a better firing rate... and that's really the only reason i have these now.. i just want whatever plug will make the car run most efficiently with best gas mileage. i also JUST read that since the platinums arc better at the same gap, they produce less power. so in order to produce the same power as a copper plug theyre supposed to be gapped farther apart than regular.

whats the difference in plugs? are the 2.2 engines that picky about plugs? the manual says bkr6e-11 is recommended (the cooper) i have 4 bkr6egp plugs ready which are platinums. what kind of difference could they make?

just about 158k miles..

other than wheel balancing and warped rotors while braking... theres a really small vibration when cruising at least 60 mph. i dont think its just the road... and isnt that a sympton when axles are going bad?

is it a pain to take the door apart and clean them? everytime i wash the car i drop the window a day or two later and those scratches are there. and it just bothers me.