greenleg88

whaaatt???! the solution was to hack up the car and reweld it together? rather than bondo it...?

eh. well didnt you say it was all uphill?

Hi all I have a 2000 impreza outback sport wagon my window is getting loose... and the front and back drop and roll up at different speeds so its slanted. this causes a bad seal and at highway speeds is really noisy. also as i am dropping the window, at about just over half way down, it drops a ot faster for a split second. it seems like a rotating bracket of some sort is loose or worn so it drops a lot quicker once it gets to a certain position. i know how to take the door card off.. but after that, i dont really know how to fit my hand or anythign in there or see much. does anyone have any pointers as to how i shoudl go about tightening or adjusting the mechanical bits of the window opener. i figured this would go under repair or repacing windows since its part of the same process..

Thanks so much for the responses! ive been trying to get some help for weeks! i dont recall it clunking much if im just sitting still shifting through with my foot on the brake... but i feel like that was just circumstantial and i will try again... To the comment about the front motor mount likely being it because it moves a lot- I feel that perhaps i dont ever pay attention to how much it moves when i haven't heard the noise... and aside from it clunking only when it starts, it clunks when hitting bumps in the road so i dont think i could reach it... and lastly- i will try using a pry bar of some sort and checking movement. I assume it shouldnt be moving at all? at least not with the amount of force i can exert? Thanks!

i experience that higher pitch tone.. and as far as i know.. i believe it is simply my AC belt needing a tightening... i know this becuase it squeaks when its warm out but when its cold, the squeak goes away. but in both cases, it squeaks when its spinning up past 4000 rpms.... perhaps its a similar situation.

hello all, i know this is a subaru forum, but all the people over at toyotanation wanna talk about is fitting 22 inch rims on their corollas...so i figured id ask some real knowledgeable folks. on a 05 corolla automatic with ~60k miles my mothers car has recently developed a rumble/clunk/ vibration. it really wories here and i took a look at it. at first look, i started it up not expecting anything at all actually and i heard a low frequency clunk. it sounds like a big heavy piece of metal clunking metal. i thought theres definitely something wrong. i took a look at the front motor mount as the engine was shut of and started again and noticed a good amount of movement.. considering ive never looked at this part when there wasnt somethign wrong.. i guess i dont know if that was the problem... on a related note.. i hear this "clunk" when hitting large bumps in the road as well. but it has to be a decent sized pothole or dip. otherwise you cant hear the clunk. when i do feel the clunk, i can feel it through the brake pedal slightly.. which i guess could mean anything.... ive noticed this only happens really when the car is dead cold. when i first got in with the engine totally cold, i started and stopped and started again a few times and experienced the same clunking. but once the engine was warm and i tried starting it up a few times, i got nothing. and could not induce the clunk even by hitting bumps on purpose. usually if i hit a really big bump in the road after the car is warm, i can ever so slightly hear it. but it has to be a big buh bump.... could it be transmission mount? it doesnt vibrate the shift lever any more than normal.. i dont think.. thanks! shadowtag88 is online now Report Post Edit/Delete Message

on the front of a mitsubishi lancer.... and it seems like it stops worse now... ive nvr really noticed something like this before... does it just need to break in? theyre semi metallic pads... everytime ive done brakes, i feel like it stopped better than i woudl ever expect and then after they break in, stop more normal... but ive never seen them stop worse.... and yes i pumped the brakes.......

hmm. okay. can you give me a rundown on how to do it. what i need im usually very enthusiastic about jumping into any project but ive never done this before and it seems like it can get complicated... thanks for the help.

wd40 to clean it. followed by white lithium grease....

well i didnt do any dismantling but i just sprayed the grease in to the joints and made sure it got in there.. the rubbing went away for a day maybe? but now it seems to be coming back worse. perhaps i didnt really go away and i just didnt notice it for those short few days...

welll then.. in that case.. i hope that lubing it will keep this vibration away... i think its just about completely stopped doing what i described.. but ill see in a few more days as i havent driven it much... thanks!

hmm.. it seems like from what i read, theres no torque bind on manual transmissions? or that it was a different case... i had torque bind in my automatic 97 legacy.. it doesnt feel the same as when it first developed in my legacy. that felt more like a wheel slipping around a turn. so i sprayed the two joints with some wd40. nd when that gets some dry time i was going to lube it.. how is white lithium grease? i dont have any of that fluid film stuff. so thats what i had available. but wanted to make sure that stuff is good to go on these components... thanks!

so i took a glance... i see the steering shaft, and the joint doesnt look very rusted at all. its a little polka doted with spots. but there is less than 15 percent covered in rust. coudl that still be it

aha! great! thanks for the help. ill give that a look once i get a chance. that this problem also happened on my 97 legacy as well. but that car was from california and had never seen much salt at all except for the last year i had it. thanks again!

hm mkay. wheres the u joint...? is that the piece that allows the steering column to have a bend in it/change directions... if thats phrased correctly. and what kinda noises would cv joint sound like? im not sure i described it accurately to call it jerking around.. i think the way it feels in my mind is.. there is friction as i turn the wheel intermittently and with the friction coming and going many times during the turning of the wheel, it feels liek a vibration..

hello i have a 2000 impreza outback sport wagon M/T with 153k miles recently i noticed when i turn the wheel back to center (i think only while turning left.) i feel a bit of either resistance or friction in the steering wheel. the way i would describe it is the steering wheel turns back but gets caught and jumps as i turn. i can feel a very slight vibration in the steering wheel as it is happening. this generally only happens at low speeds or making smaller radius turns. i did a search and found cv joints? but it does not clunk when i get on and off the throttle... or is it ball joints... thanks for the help.

ive done it a few times. and i truly vouch for the 3m headlight restoration kit. no im not trying to sound like a commercial. but be patient and it really works! its about 22 dollars or so.. it was liek 18 i think when i bought it last year. but my friend bought it again a few months ago and thats the new price. theres two packages. i believe the older one does not included masking tape.. so its a tad cheaper. good luck

hmm i never saw anywhere for an air filter on the drivers side even when i took off the kick panel... ill take a look behind the glove box when i get a chance.. i have the outback sport i thought that was the highest trim level? i didnt know they made a limited on top of that. thanks for the help.

2000 impreza wagon outback sport is there a cabin filter in my car? ive looked around and its kind of confusing. i see them for sale? but have read there isnt one? havent seen where it would be located.. thanks.

i did check ebay.. except.. whenever i do a search i get round lights.. which are on the 2.5rs. my car has square ones.. and ive even seen sites advertise fog lights for sale that are explicitly for non 2.5rs or L models which my car would be under the category... i started to think they were aftermarket lights but htey say subaru on them.. i just dont know how to find em.. without going to a dealership.. which woudl be very expensive..

i could... but in my case.. that would be 150-600 usdollars just to get set up... when my car only cost me 2000 usd. so i figured a 130 dollar solution would be more suitable for my situation. but i wanst sure which cheap solution woudl be best.

hi, on a 2000 outback sport. one of the fog lights has a cracked lens, and the screws are totally stripped and possibly rusted into the housing. im trying to find a replacement lens at the least, so that perhaps if i drilled out hte screws, i could get it to work again.. but everywhere i look, i keep getting results for differnt fog lights. this is not the RS model nor the L model. but even when i explicitly search for the outback sport, i get round fog lights, and my car has the square fog lights. with a shroud around it. which i need two of as well.. if anyone knows what im talking about.id appreciate the tip. thanks

hey all, my newly aquired 2000 impreza outback sport, im trying to get a bike rack for it since the one i had wont fit on it. ive been looking at roof racks, as i dont want to lose access to the trunk when i have the bikes on the rack... but thats a very expensive route..plus its very unclear as to what will and will not fit on the factory crossbars. ive just started to look at trunk mounted racks which are much cheaper, but i thought... since my car has the spoiler on it, will any of the trunk mounted racks fit? ive looked at yakima and thule.. does anyone have any experience with this? i dont want to buy a rack and get shafted when it doesn't fit. thanks, Fred

ill post some in the morning... i read that this ej22 has a different head than the older ej22. it said that the previous ej22 that they had in the legacy had hydraulic lifters that did not need adjusting.. the ej22 in the 2000 obs was changed and does not have hydraulic lifters and needs to be adjusted every 100k miles... why would subaru go backwards...?