greenleg88

i dont know where... but if you look in the engine bay... when you shift through the gears.. there should be a cable that moves.... see if thats even moving.... and im pretty sure a tow truck company will be able to tow your car somewhere.. theyll have to use Go-jacks though.. anywho.. if you need to tow it.. it should be possible...

hmm. i see. not that i plan to... but for people that do remove their cats.. how do they manage to get around emissions and the trouble codes? do they remove the first o2 sensor or put a spacer in so that it gets some cold air from outside the exhaust as well? that way there is a "temperature increase" the way there should be as if there was a cat.. or does that have an error code as well... or could a obd2 reader just clear the codes. and is that what people do right before they get their cars tested?

what is the difference in all the different spark plug wires... as long as they consistently conduct the spark, isnt that good enough? what more could they do...

hmm okay. ill try that. if my cat is shot, wouldnt i get a check engine light? assuming the o2 sensors before and after are working.... and not throwing codes. and about the cat being blocked, if this is true, would that explain why the car is "slow" because of the excess back pressure? so what if the cat was taken off, wouldnt that be not enough back pressure? i never completely understood why performance cars would take off the cats.

http://pwnstar.rh.rit.edu/subie/2nd_gear_pull.avi http://pwnstar.rh.rit.edu/subie/1st_gear.avi here you can see that it only rattles in the certain range.. and that as long as its not at wot it doesn't rattle.. and if it is past the upper limit at WOT it still doesnt rattle. the rattle is resonating from the front passenger side.... near the floor...

thats what i thought at first too.. but i feel like its not because of the way it only rattles when the pedals at the floor.. and only from 3-4k rpm.....

i posted about my 97 legacy L sedan about a week or so ago.. asking why it was so "slow".. it has a 157k miles yadi yada.. ever since i got it.. theres been a rattle at WOT... and only at WOT from about 3-4k rpm. if im driving normally in that range thers no sound... its only if i put my foot down past a certain point.. which feels like about 3/4. i forgot about it really.. and i really started to think today... and i thought perhaps its an exhaust leak.. the sound reminds me of a quieter open wastegate.... ill post a video up of the sound asap... if anyone knows what im talking id really appreciate the help. Thanks. Fred

i know someone who had a similar deal with a wrx... he bought it as "stock" but the dealer apparently didnt know that it had a bigger turbo with a stock intake box and exhaust... as well as cracked pistons... knock on wood...

well i tested the socket with a replacement bulb that isnt the silverstart ultra and it worked... so based the socket, the bulb is just burnt out.... but according to my battery pack, the bulb is still good..

My driver side headlight just went out. They're not that old so I was surprised. And by not too ok I mean under a year but on all the time.... I still feel like it still has life... I tested it with a battery pack and I works. But when I plot it into the car it doesn't... I tried a new bulb and that worked on the battery pack as well as ok the car. Is there something I'm not understanding about basic circuits? The one that isn't working is a ailverstar ultra... So unless thatdrawa a lott more power... I don't understand why it doesn't work... Anyone care to share their ideas? Thanks

uh.. its definitely the struts. i noticed a few weeks ago that advance auto recommends changing struts every 50k.. i feel like thats really soon.... but at 150k its definitely the struts..

oh yeah. the CEL does come on occasionally for the throttle pos sensor. and by occasionally i mean twice in the last year. it goes away by itself so far. its really strange.. it will be there and then maybe after 12 hours or so or just the next time i start my car its gone. i unplugged it blew out any dust... i was thinking maybe it just had a bad connection or something. im not sure what the code is about... its never consistently there. what should i do about that?

sorrry. its a 97 legacy L. automatic and just hit 157k its not doing anything wrong. its just old and slow.. but i dont know what it is about being old that makes care lose so much power. i just heard of leaking past pistons but i dont really know much else. miles airfilter - 10 k fuel filter - 3k spark plugs/wires- 10k oil - 800 miles its definitely running smoother than when i got it first.. but im just wondering about the loss of power over the years. and thanks for the all the answers

will it even roll backwards if you push it when the shifter is in reverse? what about in neutral?

what is it that makes cars lose so much power as they age. my car is from 97 and it definitely did not have the same power new. it is definitely much slower from when it was new. how can power be restored? and i dont mean modding it.. i mean just getting it back to what it was like new or close.

thats a similar idea but the idea behind the cap is that you dont know which two connect which device. if a thief notices your insert and does it themselves, its as good as not having it... i asked someone who had it done on an STI. he said it was about 400 a few years ago.. and took 3-4 hours of work. but he also had 2 plugs installed.. so it might be a little faster. even still - reasonable

consider this... http://neverstolen.com/

!!!! meee too!! i thought this was a too good to be true deal. or an easy way to "win" i needed transmission work done so i called them and they said they would insure my car. but i tried to hang up and all they do is drop their price lower and lower. which made me even more suspicious... especially since they dont do any kind of check up on my car. i looked up more information but they dont really have any written terms. and i kinda gave up after that but i woudl ask them for written documentation.. the whole situation seemed a little shady to be honest.. it didnt feel right.

alright, sounds good ive found that the bug eye wrx sedan struts and springs will fit on a 97 legacy. so im open to that idea. but i guess i would prefer decently new 97 legacy struts. so if anyones selling....

so if you over fill it.. what are the consequences? i think mines past the full mark, up by the the top mark. the semicircle on the edge of the dipstick. that was an accident. but i didnt know how to take it out..

the airfilter is moved to hook up directly to the manifold. so it looks like that pvc pipe leading into the fender is just pulling air from the fender.

basically if i piece together some pvc pipe, maf adapter, and a cone filter.. i could theoretically build my own CAI? just like that?! after reading that, im considering doing that for my 97 legacy L

does anyone know if struts from a newer legacy or any other subaru will fit on a 97 legacy sedan? i was looking for someone selling struts and perhaps springs on the various subaru message boards and i didnt see many posts for this year and model, so i was wondering if they make a difference... thanks!

i was just looking to see if anyone had said this one... id give this a shot for sure.