greenleg88

.... so.... how long would permatex last.......?

well since the cars gotten to new york, i had it on my friends lift and i dont recal ever seeing permatex or anything similar to it.. but i may have just overlooked it... but i feel liek permatex wouldnt have lasted this long honestly... im going to call the shop that did the work or "did" the work. and ive gotten under since it started drippign but i cant realyl tell where its comign from.. theres oil everywhere...... ill take a better look when i can... for now im just going to call the shop to see what they say... but im not sure how much good that will do because the shops in california.. and im in new york.. heh thanks for all that info. i ran the car fax report and it was a rental car before someone bought... then my sister bought it and now its mine.. so i only sort of know the history on this car... id ont think it was well maintained.. and at this rate i can never really tell when its goign to develop a new problem already haha. but il see what happens.

eh, i see what you mean. but after a few more of these wear items i could have bought another car of equal value. and if i were to trade in for new car, i wouldnt really get anything for it.. im just worried that after fixing this something else is goign to go wrong. that will be equaly expensive.. and also the check engine light has been coming on and off.. and its saying throttle body position sensor input low. and i posted about that but jsut havent had the time to address it.. since i got the car it just seems to be having problem after problem. thats all..

alright well thanks for all the info. right now im thinking about what to do. its either drop at least 650 it sounds into this car to making it all better.. by doing it myself. which i dont know is possible or not because i have to have it done within ten days. and i have work and i dont know how to begin or i could have someone do it for liek 900? ish and i feel like it might not be worth it since the cars worth liek 3k.. and 900 just went into it for the clutch and this valve cover gaskets were JUST changed not more than 5000 miles ago. and i dont know why theyre leaking again. front and rear cam seals were also changed. according to this bill... i only need to get the car working for another year.. i dont have the money to keep dropping into this thing if it just keeps giving me problems. i just need the cheapest fix that will get it going for at least another year. whats the best advice? thanks

hokay so - the car has 152k miles. the car is from SF but its in new york now.. i drove it to new york from 149500k -153430 miles... im pretty sure the belt was changed within the last 50k miles... im not really sure on that.. how much do you think it will cost to fix all this? the mpt clutch was just changed by the dealer so that was pretty painful. ill prob find a shop to do it cuz i dont want to deal with it. if its insane crazy, i do have a place where there is just about every tool imaginable... as for skill wise, im not as experienced but would like to be. but there would also be others around that are more familiar that may be used for reference.. so if its possible and a LOT cheaper i could probably manage to do it myself.. whats the plan? heh thanks for the help

its a 97 legacy sedan. and as of now, the car is losing half a quart every 150 miles.. or so.. i plan to get it fixed within the week. but i was also wondering which spot is most likely to have such a large leak. and be so close to the exhaust. it looks like its dripping from directly above the cat... oh and what are the thoughts on oil pressure...? the car starts fine.... the remote start choked just now i think.. it paused and tried again and it started fine.. idk if thats even related..

hmm ill look into that. it does like liek thers nasty stuff all over the cat... and um.. wouldnt a broken heater hose be steam? andd how does any of that explain a dry dipstick?

oi. so i just drove home from school. its about a 350 mile drive or so.. i had some work done on the car recently (mpt clutch) and while that was done the dealer said there were oil leaks in a few places. -oil pump o ring, valve cover gaskets (both sides) and left front cam seal. i stopped at a rest stop after about 150 miles of driving and once i get out of the car, it starts POURRRRRING smoke. i believe there was oil dripping onto the exhaust, right near the cat. and stupid of me, i didnt check the oil. which is so stupid to me now.... being that there is nothign i can do for another 200 miles at least i drive a bit more. i was slightly afraid the oil dripping would get hot enough and catch fire.. but i dont know what that would require.. at 288 miles, im out of gas and i fill up. i checked the oil here and the dip stick comes out CLEAN as a whistle. I immediatly added at least a quart. i topped it off a bit over full. to finish off the journey home. so right now, as it sits, the car spews smoke everytime i stop, cuz i guess the oil is able to drip directly onto the exhaust. and all the smoke gets into the car. 1st - anyone have an idea of which spot would be most likely leaking? 2nd - i think there is an active drip. as ithink i found a few droplets on teh ground but im not certain. 3rd - what do i do?!?! is it safe to drive...? will the oil catch fire? (obviously i understand i should probably look into the issue before driving any more than necessary...) pleaseee help!!

WOW WOW WOW!!!!!!!! I FIGURED IT OUT! man is it silly... so a few days ago i realized i forgot the charger to my car jumper pack at home... ive been trying to charge the pack through the car.. and when i leave. i forget to unplug it cuz its normally an ipod transmitter anyway... so thats when the problem with the radio started.. i had been playing with the ignition switch and on and off and radio on and off and wipers... blah blah blah. i then gave up and unpluged the charge pack cuz i was afraid it would pull power from the battery..... it was then that i had my brainwave.. i realized the battery pack was powering the Accessory electronics.. i tested the theory and sure enough thats what happened... SO, my problem was just me being forgetful... but thanks for all the suggestions! at least now.. i know what to do if that really was my problem...

hmm. Thanks a lot!

i havent found out of the cigarette lighter works.. but no seat heaters.. and no, the assumption is wrong.... i can have the key out and toggle the radio knob and itll go on and off.. while the clock with backlight will stay light at all times.. its as if the key was at accesory.

well yes the car is new to me... but ive driven it from california to new york.. so i got to know it quite quickly and ive had it for a month and a half or so... now that i think of it.. my friend adjusted the mirrors while the car was off... so right now.. the total number of things stuck on are the radio, wipers, washer fluid pump, and mirrors. the power windows dont function though.. and i had thought here was a faulty ignition switch as well.. and it makes sense since all of those things are on the first stop of the ignition switch anyway... hmmmmmmmm... what should i do first?

well the Previous owner was my sister.. and the person before her didnt have a clue how to do anything like this. im sure of it. and the symptom JUST started happening like last night....... ALSO, i noticed the wipers are still on standby when i shut the car off. if i turn the wipers off with the car of theyll sweep. even the washer fluid pump gets power. i didnt pull that fuse though cuz i figured if theyre not working its not pulling the power... and its REALLY cold up here so id rather not have hte clock running.. itll still drain over time...

in my 1997 legacy L my radio stays on after the car is shut off and the key is out. the panel that shows the time stays lit and shows the time even after i leave. i dont recal ever seeing that.. and if i turn the knob, the radio will play music. the lights that are backlit from the headlights being on dont stay on though. it is ONLY the clock and radio that are functional. im in rochester now and its kinda cold.. so i pulled the fuse on the radio till someone has an idea of why... the only wiring i have personally done is a hardwired valentine one radar detector.. and thats tapped into the light switch... any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

thanks for that. well wiht the dremel i intended to make a makeshift tap.. it was really the best possible idea since i couldnt find the tap for it.. and the first two threads on the bung are pretty much flattened and ripped of. so if its smoothed out im guessing it cant be saved. but im not really sure the condition of it right now. and thers def never been anti seize compound on it.. the o2 sensor is kinda tied on temporarily for now.. its doing the job.. and its only a temporary fix till i can get back to the car and finish it properly...

first off thanks for the help. and to clarify.. this is the first o2 sensor. as in it is directly on the exhaust manifold. its not behind the cat... so i dont think something from the cat broke off and hit it..

alright so a total update on my current situation. i have called many shops and none of them had the tap i needed. someone told me it was a 14 by 1.5 mm tap that i needed. i searched EVERY WHERE for that tap. nobody had it. i figured id get a bolt that size so i could chase the threads.. and if i could find my dremel, id cut down the bolt perpendicularly to make a makeshift tap.... i find the bolt ... which is really a wheel stud with no hex top.. so it would have been difficult to drive in anyways.. and its the wrong size. so i really dont know what the size is that i need right now. ill look into those spark plug taps.. so the threads on the bung are pretty messed up. but only at hte beggining .. i used a mirror and couldnt really tell if its saveable.. but eitherway.. i dont have anythign to chase it with.. i ended up using some permatex.. the gold stuff. its good to 700 intermittent. someone said the jb weld was goign to crack cuz of the heat.. and i didnt want to use thermo steel or whatever that is.. the cold weld stuff... i put the permatex on.. waited 24 hours.. drove it.. and as i was on the way home.. i heard the sensor pop out again.. and that was right before a 400 mile trip i planned to go home... i let the car cool for an hour and tried using the permatex again, and i used a really thin cable thats used for hanging pictures.. i got that around the headrs and looped it on.. then i used a drywall screw to twist hte cable and tension it.. its actually holding on REALLY REALLY incredibly well.. considering its only a temporary fix... but it might have to stay for a bit.... because im going back to school.. Threading the threads on the bung are gone, there are two rows of threads on the sensor that are a little ugly.. but if i could get a confirmation on the size, i will order the tap and die set. are all 02 sensors the same size? this is a 2003 toyota corolla. and if rethreading the bung doesnt work, ill have to find a new header from a junk yard or osmething.. a few people have been telling me about how you cant realyl weld cast... and thats what the manifold is... any comments...? thanks for al the responses.

how surprisingly do you mean by surprisingly... like 20 dollars surprising or liek 80 dollars surprsing... or more.... i saw jbweld just now at walmart.. it doesnt have a heat rating.. i did see this though... and this is also similar to what my friend told me about.. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm cept thats only rated to 650 degrees... anything else.. im mostly looking for an adhesive fix... thanks!

hmm i just looked up what helicoil is... and how would that work?

i know this is a subaru forum but this is a technical question regarding a 2003 toyota corolla... and i know people on here are much more helpful than the guys on the toyota forums.. so. when i replaced the o2 sensor a few months ago, the threads were stripped because of some mystery object dislodging the original sensor and denting it from the inside as well is causing the threads to strip.. we put the new o2 sensor in and since the threads were stripped, we tightened it till it was snug and left it at that. just tonight, the o2 sensor popped out and it sounded like i was driving a riced out civic with a fart can... any suggestions as to what i should do? the car seemed to be running strong when the o2 sensor was sitting snug... i was thinking to just put some heat rated loctite or somethign in the threads and letting it sit as snug as i could... any one have any ideas what kinda paste i should use. or suggest against this? thanks a lot.

hi, does anyone have a mechanic for their subaru that they could vouch for that is located on long island near westbury new york? im looking for somewhere to take my car before next tuesday... thanks a lot!

i similarly have this problem. cept in my case i have never seen the fwd light come on on the dash.. where is it? and does that mean my solenoid C is done as well? or is there another possible reason...?

hmm thanks for the info. after reading those, ive learend a bit.. but.. doesnt loosening the bleed screw on top of the radiator only help the radiator drain faster? how do i get the air out of the actual engine block?

what kinda oil did you put back in?

What is the capacity for the radiator? i just drained it and not much came out... only about a gallon went back in... when we flushed water into the engine, it would fill up and over flow the way we put it in.. (we put it in on the left side while facing the car going into the engine) that didnt really help the rest flow out any better on the bottom of the car either. it seems liek there was something clogged in the engine? why is that? Thanks