McDave

Coincidentally, Emily from CCR Engines posted the other day that the paraffin based oils shouldn't be used in H engines as they can pool and gum up the rings. Here's her post...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=757997&postcount=12 Note: A followup post cleared Pennzoil from the offending group as having less than 2% paraffin now, but I still don't care for the way it smells - sulfur.

Lifters are bleeding down.

22mm, same as the alternator pulley nut.

Thanks that's good to know. Does that apply to the 2.5 sohc engines too?

You might drop by the shop and have them show you the guides. They should have the exhaust dropped off the heads and the offending cylinder's valves open. I would be more inclined to believe the exhaust valves are too tight as the valves could have sunk in the head a bit and need adjusted. But guides do slip too and that would account for the intermittent nature of your problem.

It seems like to me both the cams and crank would need to be timed correctly before tightening the cams down if this is an interference motor. And no matter how you have the cams timed, there will always be some valves that will be holding the cams up. Those cam towers need to be tightened first so the cams will go down level. I sure would consult the fsm before assembling this motor.

My parents had two nearly identical Olds Cutlass Cieras. Mom was the leadfoot in the family and her car ran great. Dad was the guy you hated getting stuck behind and his car was a dog. After dad passed away and mom started driving his car, she complained that it just didn't want to go! I disconnected the battery for a few minutes then took it out and "blew the soot out of it" and floored it from a stop every chance I got. That fixed it. Mom could be first away from the light again.

If it's going to be street driven only: #6 or #9 (classy). Street & occasional race: #7. Full race: the #10 yellow over the #11 blue. Over budget single color: #10 race or #12 street. The other solid colors do nothing for me. Note: What color do you want your engine compartment to be? That will dictate the upper color of a two tone. White or yellow would be my choice, so that rules out #9's orange.

Rockauto.com has the Genuine Subaru Part # 12305AA001 crank pulleys for $20.79 + shipping.

Good point. I had assumed the new motor didn't come with the C&C sensors and you had reused your old ones. PS I like the egr theory too. Note, you may want to fill your tank with premium so the knock sensor doesn't retard the timing so much with the egr vacuum plugged off.

That would do it.

Mahalo brudda. But is it fixed yet?

My thinking is if you had a valvetrain problem, then it would have shown up sooner. Even though it didn't trigger the cel at the time, you probably would have noticed the gauge acting up before since you were keeping a close eye on it. At this point I would take a very close look at all the electrical connections between the ecu and it's engine sensors (and injectors). Check for a pin that has pushed out the back of a connector, or a corroded connection, or one that has gotten hot and melted the plastic connector, or a bare wire that is touching metal when you move things around (Ford calls it a wiggle test, engine running). Then consider changing the crank and cam sensors.

I think I would have to have a detachable mount on them so they could removed for safe keeping at every stop. Sweet!

Tough crowd. No doubt a Legacy would be a better car, but I personally prefer my Loyale's styling and smaller size. It can get to places out on the ranch that would scratch up a larger car. I also wanted a 5 speed when I bought it, but a reoccurring health issue recently reminded me why I have to have an AT. Did I mention I really like my Loyale? So Whoop, I'm on your side. The wife needs an AT, you already have one, why not keep another oldie on the road? The best advice I can give on the swap is to rent a proper transmission jack. It will make the job so much easier. Worth it's weight in gold. Once you disconnect the torque converter from the flexplate and start bringing the tranny down, make sure you keep the front of the tranny higher (this is where a proper jack helps). Same when going back together with it. This will keep the tc from slipping and dumping fluid all over the place. Also, make sure you have the tc all the way back in place on the new tranny before going back together. There are several notches that need to align before it seats. Just keep turning the tc as you lightly push it on the tranny and you'll eventually hear it clunk home. Once you get the tranny back in place, if it doesn't want to seat with the engine, don't force it. Make sure the tc isn't hitting the flexplate early. If it is, you didn't get the tc seated all the way on the tranny. That's about all of the tricky points. The rest is just nuts and bolts, wires and hoses. Oh, and do take the pitching rod off so you don't bend it and the tranny will drop down at the right angle for R&R. Good luck!

Define "isn't too hard" please!

Any chance you bent the transmission pan when you jacked it up? You could have damaged the tcc solenoid or wiring inside.

Well of course. To clarify, I was referring to the marks on the cams and crank, and should have included tooth count in my answer. But my point was to crank it over by hand in case he got it wrong, so as to not bend the valves by cranking it over with the starter.

Darn, I was thinking dual carbs since you are short one Weber.

That's the price you pay to look cool.

I would suggest rotating the engine over by hand for two revolutions, recheck marks, then start it up.

How many miles are on your car?

I always just unbolt the mc from the booster and have a look at the back of the mc. You can leave the lines connected so if the mc isn't leaking you can just bolt it back up without having to bleed the brakes.

Pair... is in dual?

Score one for McDave! Nipper still leads 2 to 1 but don't count the new guy out just yet! (you had to be there)