Rust

Yes, older gen cars are more desireable than newer gen cars. HOWEVER The older the car is the more work and time it will need, and the practability factor goes down. Trust me there is a huge differance when I commute to work in my loyale v.s my 79 wagon. I say go for it, you'll have a bigger grin on your face commuting in a 78 wagon v.s a gen 2 wagon.....but both are cool by me.

That sucks, Sounds like the guy who listed it on CL got it and was planning a quick flip.....then after getting a lot of responses probably felt he could get more $ by doing a tune up/detailing. I doubt this is the last we will see of this car......stay tuned to ebay!

I'd be all over that like stink on a monkey if I lived closer. Go get it!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131753&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=rust+treatment+products&start=0 Here's a good review of a 5 year test on different rust treatment products. It's been my experience that as long as no serious pitting(just surface rust) rustoleum rusty metal primer(or probably any rust preventaive primer) works good. If the metal is pitted I use some type of rust converter first then the primer. The trick is to realy let it dry out between coats. It took me a month to paint my floor of my 79 wagon. 3 coats converter. 2 coats primer. then paint topcoat. I let it dry 3-5 days in-between coats. Good luck with your project......looks great.

http://www.oldparkedcars.com/2012/01/1978-subaru-leone-1600-4wd-wagon.html Nice unmollestd 78 wagon.

Awsome ea82 t.v. commercial

Plans are to inventory all the NOS parts in the bed. The original owner worked at a subie dealership and there is a ton of genuine subaru parts to sort through. Needs a new exhaust, cv joints, and front brakes. The interior is mint, just missing one radio knob. My only plan for the brat is to swap the rally wheels for spoke wheels and drive the snot out of it. ......but, I'll probably wait for the salt to clear off the roads this spring.

Runs great, would have driven it home but my trailer is registered...the car is not. Was originally looking for parts car for my other brat, needless to say my old brat will now be a parts car. I've looked at a lot of New England Brats, this one is unbelievable solid. It's been well cared for and garaged most of it's life.

For anyone who thinks rust free brats can't be found in the east. Keep hunting they are out there. Was out searching for parts and scored this one.

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It's mainly on the drivers side, at night I see rainbows in it(oil film) and its not easy to wipe off......That plus the car is bellowing smoke during warm up leads me to believe a new head gasket or engine overhaul is in my future. The only thing that has me stumped is if oil is getting into the water, why is only half of my widshield getting foggy/filmy? Just gonna keep running it as it is. I have a decent ea81 I can put in in the spring.

Any ideas for fixing condensation on the interior windows. I gutted the entire interior, fixed all the leaks, re-installed everything after a thorough cleaning and drying.....but when I run the heater the whole cabin foggs up.:-\ The side dash fresh air vents are leaking in a bit, dont know if this has anything to do with it. But I do know there is not a drop of water inside the car....and i do not park it outdoors for water to get in anyway. I'm used to getting stares commuting down the highway in a 30 yr old subie....now I'm getting stares like cheech and chong are in my back seat.

Update: Put a cap and rotor on from the old motor. The rotor that was in there was pretty pitted. Starts much quiker now. Still moderate stumbling (better than before). Stumbles going through the gears(slightly) and on steep grades on the highway. I can live with it the way it drives now, would be nice to solve this mystery completely. The volt meter does not wobble when it stumbles on the highway(constant 14) so I don't think it's a sensor/voltage issue. Going to try increasing tension on the timming belts next. How much flex should there be? Don't want to overtighten them and snap them.

Miles Fox is most likely right about the AIC. I had simmilar issues and just adjusted the accelerator cable a few turns to get it to idle ok. Idles fine now. May not be the best fix but it stopped having to do fancy footwork at every stop.

Good tip, I'll take a look at the belts. May try a different dizzy cap also from the parts bin.

Update: have put about 1500 miles on the engine since the install. Keep in mind this engine was sitting in a barn for 2 yrs before putting it in the car. Here's the list of new parts put on before the install. ngk plugs valve cover gaskets rear main seal oil pan gasket gas filter(for a mazda) The idleing issue is much better, not perfect but no lobeing or major issues. The last bug to work out is high rev acceleration. It stumbles a bit accelerating through the gears..... especially going up steep grades. Feels like a misfire issue or a clogged fuel filter. Its not that dramatic but annoying none the less. Since the plugs and filter are brand new, I'm thinking I might still have some vacuum or sensor issue. Any ideas what to look at next?

I'll do a hill climb off with you. In my 79 4x4. Got all the bugs worked out with the hitachi and was able to scratch up enough green to get new rubber for the flat spoke jackmans. Going to try and get a digital camera to post some pics soon. Using the 85 brat and the 79 4x4 as daily drivers right now. Bring on the snow!

not sure if the trailing arms are the same on a fwd v.s. a 4wd gen 1 car, but yes the rear trailing arm on my fwd rubbed. The rally wheels are aluminium. I grinded a very small ammount on the inner lip of the rim, grinded a vey little bit on the weld seam area of the trailing arm where it hit the wheel. and then threw on 2 washers for back spacing. without the grinding I would have had to add more washers, wich would require longer wheel studs. Any more than 2 washers and there really isn't enough threads for the nuts. The front wheels mounted on the front no problem.

yeah, I'll double check the vacuum lines again. I have plenty of spare alternaters(plus a brand new one in the box.) so I'll try that tip also. There is an electrical connection at the air filter box(air flow meter) could that be the culprit?

1993 loyale 4wd ea82 tbi.(fuel injection) Engine ran fine when pulled from donor car 2 yrs ago. Replaced all the gaskets(except intake gaskets) and installed it this weekend. Motor has about 130,000 miles Symptoms: lobes at idle between 1000 and 2000 RPM. Poor acceleration, choppy, but picks up at higher RMPs. Put a new fuel filter on and plan to get a new set of plugs and wires. Any suggestions of what else to check? I checked all the vacuum lines and they seem ok but maybee I need to check them again. any suggestions appreciated.

sweet ride. If your missing the bumpers you should fab up a set of nerf bars for it. My 77 sedan is put away for the winter, but I'll drag race you next spring.

I run ea82 rally wheels on my 77 fwd sedan. Had to do a little grinding and backspacing but they fit. You may need some longer wheel studs depending on how much backspacing you need.

I agree the dashboard temp guage is just slightly better than an idiot light in terms of an accurate monitoring of your engine, but its good to know others get simmilar readings. I never knew from 1985-1994 EA82's had different radiators? I thought they were all the same. What year did the change happen. How can you tell them appart?

Just curious what temp. guage readings people who run thier EA82's on a daily basis get. Most of my EA82 cars run with the temp meter at the 1/8 to 1/4 ish area. I recently have been driving a 1986 auto sedan that runs at the 1/2 way mark all day long. Based on my experience of them normally running at the 1/4 mark, I thought it was running too hot. Put in a new thermostat last week and it still runs at the 1/2 way mark. No symptoms of overheating, runs great. So is my guage off, or do others with EA82's have simmilar normal operating temperatures.

http://storm.oldcarmanualproject.com/