Rust

schweeeeet!

Just thought I'd pass along my experience with GSP cv axle's bought from Advanced auto parts. Replaced the passenger side 1 yr ago, and the inner cv went bad. Bought another GSP and it started clicking as soon as I started driving. Both of these are brand new, not re-manufactured axle assmbelys. I'm going to bring back the first one to see if they will honor the "limited lifetime replacement". So far I have bought 3 of these GSP units...1 went bad after 10,000 miles, 1 went bad right away, and 1(on the drivers side) seems ok but less than 500 miles on that one so far.

Since my loyale is down I've been using my 85 hitachi carbed brat and it keeps hessitating/hiccuping going up hill or at high rpms. I've replaced all the rubber fuel lines, new fuel filter, new vapor seperator, new generic electric fuel pump......but it still hessitates/hiccups going uphill:confused: Before I start pulling the carb apart to clean the jets is there anything else that could be blocking fuel getting to the engine?

Since I'm looking at a tranny swap, I might as well remove the rear drive shaft and drive it around briefly to rule out that as the main culprit. The u-joints on the rear shaft seem ok. the stubs seem to be the only thing I can detect as loose. thanxs for the feedback.

93 loyale EA82 pushbutton 4WD 5speed Symptoms: severe vibration in all gears. stick shift vibrating left and right. steering wheel not vibrating, no front wheel vibration. Acts like a loose motor/tranny mount. Checked all motor and tranny mounts...all good and tight. replacd cv axle drivers side thinking it was a bad inner cv joint. Did not fix vibration but made it less severe. Checked snub axle ends and they both wiggle a bit.. not tight. So now I'm thinkging the roller bearings in the tranny are shot. My questions are: 1. can the roller bearings be replaced w/o removing the tranny from the car.....or does the tranny have to come out and split the case? 2. can I use a set of roller bearings from a non 4WD 5speed tranny? 3. when pulling the snub axles out to replace the bearings do they both have to line up with the differential case in the same position they were pulled out of or does it not matter? Any feedback from someone with simmilar problem, or has done this proceedure greatly appreciated...thanxs

Runs fine after warm up. When cold dead spot in acceloration, and sometimes lobes. Replaced IAC(with a used one), vacuum lines all good. Still runs like poo at warm up. Before I swap out the CTS, is there anything else to check.

Burp it, before spending $ on new parts.

Been starting my 86gl w/ hot wires fed from the battery and the starter snaked under the dash for the last 2 yrs. I suppose I should spend the $10 on a starter button, but I just arc the 2 wires and go.

Thanxs for the info, I'll just leave it alone for now. So they added that switch on loyale's, but eliminated the oil pressure and volt meter from the dashboard(my only gripe about loyale's)

Why does the loyale have a switch on top of the steering colum to turn off the front side lights, and the tail lights/licence plate light??????? My rear lights went out and I thought I blew a fuse or something shorted out. Turns out I must have pressed that switch on the steering colum. Pressed it and my rear lights came back on?????? I guess its a good switch to have if your running from the cops, I think I'll call it the gangsta getaway switch.

Most likely it is the heater core hose that runs under the power steering unit. Very easy fix, but a *************** to get to it.

if your heads are cracked or warped I have a set, I use copper spray when putting in new gaskets. I also have an official subaru tech. manual on 1982 models if you need torq. specs...ect. Happy wrenching.

My 86GL still sports the Holmgren dealer sticker on the tailgate, I'd love to drive it on thier lot and freak out the customers. If I can make it I'll either use my 92loyale 4wd or 86brat. keep me posted.

Any updates on stock parts? I have enough exhaust scraps laying around to cobble up a fix, but would rather have the option to replace with factory correct pieces.

Here is a cheap-o fix for leaky widows. 1. Clean the gasket and window contact area w/ acetone or paint thinnner. A bondo spreader works great for cleaning the crevase between the window and the gasket. 2. Take a tube of permatex black gasket sealant, and drill out the end tip of the tube nose cone. 3. Using the bondo spreader to create a gap between the gasket and glass, stick the nose cone of the permatex down in there and squeeze a bead along that line. 4. press the gasket back in place, and wipe off excess that squeezes out. If you have the extra $ for replacement gaskets(or can even find them) this may not be the best solution for you. It worked for me

The oil pump gasket job probably was not the problem, but it now has new gaskets. Still ticking after the new gaskets and pressure good. I drained out a couple quarts of oil and dumped in 2 quarts ATF fluid. Blasted it down the highway to get it good and hot. Drained it out and switched to synthetic 10w30 and a quart of risoline. Ticking gone:banana: I religiously change the oil evey 3000 miles but used cheapo wal-mart oil. From now on I'll run synthetic only. Thanks for all the tips. P.S. this EA82 did'nt start ticking until around 200,000 miles... not bad.

Looking to replace exaust system on a 77DL sedan. Not having much luck finding exact factory stock pieces. I am especially looking for the square cheese grater exaust tip. Any ideas where to find parts?

Thanxs for the feedback. If there is a blockage issue why would both heads be ticking? Once the heads are removed from the engine is there a way to check the oil flow/pressure before re-bolting new heads? Id hate to re-do the heads only to find there is a blockage somewhere in the engine case.

Ive swapped axles from a fwd standard and fwd auto. Basically any ea82 front axle are all the same.

I replaced the oil pump gasket, engine still has massive valve ticking. I have a parts engine, and a complete motor. Which would be easier replacing the heads on the motor in the car, or just swap the whole motor? Car is getting 45 oil pressure according to dash guage. If I need to pull the motor to do the heads, I might as well put in my spare motor. Either way its a lot of work, just need an idea of what will be easier.

Looks great for a CT car. The CT antique plate limmits the ammount of driving you can do with the car. Looks like he put a lot of work into it.

Putting in new gasket should it be put in dry, or coat it w/ oil or permatex? Also has anyone put in a stiffer pressure spring in the pump to increase pressure?

lug nuts/drum nut is fine. the bearings seem ok. I think the rear end is just slightly out of allignment. Any way to check caster/camber ? PS this is my "new" car. All my other vehicles are 1986 or older.

I'm thinking the problem is somewhere up front. Used a test light out back. I am hoping someone has had a simmilar problem w/ a gen 1 car and knows the fix before I have to start ripping up the dash and testing the wires in there.