Twitch de la Brat
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Posts posted by Twitch de la Brat
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14 hours ago, idosubaru said:
What did you do to fix it?
Im nearly positive mine is sag. I can hear it hitting the striker low and doesn’t appear to be any interference around the edges.
Lol, I got rid of the car
But mine was also trim catching on the top rear corner of the window.
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On 11/10/2023 at 4:02 PM, idosubaru said:
This guy knows. They are long doors. Electric window hardware for more weight get.
ilk check again.
Ok, so I had a similar issue in my '86 XT Turbo. The driver's side door wouldn't align perfectly. Part of the door shutting issue came from the door trim catching the upper corner of the door glass. In addition to the door sag. It was a weird conglomeration of door sag but the upper corner sticking high enough to interfere. It came from the door and sunroof creating a combination of sag and upward angle. Might be worth a look.
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It's possible the problem is far enough out that it set a permanent code and now the computer has fully disabled the cruise control, as it fails before startup due to this permanent code.
Now what I mean by permanent, is it's in a different memory point in the ECU, so it may not be wiped by your code reader. If you have the ability to check your "permanent" or "memory" codes, you may be able to wipe it and get your cruise back.
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Have you tried the classic method of chasing down vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner at various vacuum fittings while it's idling? If there's a leak, the car will increase in RPM for a short time if there's a leak near/where you sprayed the carb clean.
As for your other possible issues, idosubaru pretty well covered it.
One other thing I would recommend is pulling the electrical connectors off your injectors and check their resistance across the terminals. If you have one way off from the others, it might be a dead/dying injector.
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On 6/10/2023 at 9:41 AM, moosens said:
Next year I should have my 79 at the event. This year looking like the 94 is going. But you don’t need a vintage or limited production Subaru.
Show up in whatever gets you there.You got it going again?! I hope to see some photos of those kids getting to look at their car's grandpa, showing what Subaru used to mean.
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On 8/4/2021 at 3:45 PM, Dinky26 said:
Sometimes I REALLY hate technology. I get an email saying that there was a reply to this topic yesterday. Now I see it NO where here. 6 years after the fact it was a good read.
Post stroke it’s like I never read it before now.Well, here, I'll give you something to read, and I promise I won't delete it.
Battery impacts have rapidly improved over the last 7 years, and now the battery powered impacts outrun the corded models.
On youtube, the Torque Test Channel has rattled dozens of impacts onto their ranking charts. Currently the top few are bouncing back and forth between Dewalt and Milwaukee, with occasionally a 3rd brand popping up here and there. Even the lower end impacts from the main brands, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Rigid, Ryobi, Craftsman, even the Harbor Freight brands, are plenty for your average mechanic. I currently run an older brushed Milwaukee for big tasks, and a 12v Fuel impact driver with an adapter for little stuff.
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So, long time no see for most of y'all. I'm still kicking, and still a car enthusiast, but lacking the time or energy to dive into my old Subaru right now. In my search for the near perfect one car solution, I went with something a little more, um, "uppity", we'll say.
She's a Certified Pre-owned 2016 Cayenne S, with a tow package, heated and cooled front seats, and a 420hp Twin Turbo V6. I make poor financial decisions and wanted a car that was finally fast, comfortable, and could still tow. 7700lbs towing and 1200lbs payload means I can still get away with towing my travel trailer. And getting this car was one hell of a trip.
I had a 2019 GMC Canyon crew cab, 6ft bed, with the 2.8L diesel. Economical, capable, but slower than a snail in traffic and made me feel like an octogenarian driving it. Also, it had a DPF (diesel particulate filter) failure at 40k miles. Which, while covered under warranty, left me without a truck for over 3 weeks. So I decided it needed to go and started a hunt for a better upgrade. I found several good options until this Cayenne caught my eye. I contacted the dealer and started negotiations, got pictures and reports about the car, and got a deal and financing.
In a span of 72 hours, I sold my truck, bought plane tickets, I took my first two flights from Spokane to Atlanta to Newark, got an "exciting" ride in a Taxi at midnight, slept like 3 hours in my hotel, walked to the dealership the next morning, and bought the car. Then I promptly drove it to a Whole Foods, stocked up, and traversed 2633 miles over 3 1/2 days, across the country back to Idaho, full solo. A total accumulation of 42 hours 42 minutes of driving. I almost roped a few people into the ride, but no one was available last minute. One hell of a drive, and I would do it again.
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PS: If y'all have any questions, feel free to fire away. Also, those fuzzy dice have lived in my daily driver since I bought my BRAT in 2008. I flew across the country with them in my bag, and put them on as soon as I left the dealership.
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Rebuilt a high compression EA81. Same engine design, just bored and stroked. Reused the head studs aside from the one the machinist chewed the threads off of. Those studs are 11mm and you won't find replacements unless you have them custom made. They'll probably out last the engine.
Run a nut down them ti check for any stretched threads. If the nut threads all the way with minimal catching or hanging, they're good to go. If any have spots that the nut gets stuck on, consider replacement if you can't smooth them out with the nut, or see if you can place those threads in a spot that they won't be in a position of excess stress.
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So it was a distributor that died. And with a bunch of hunting, I found a unicorn. Rebuilt with almost no miles and no shaft play sitting in the junkyard.
The old exhaust has been unbolted and and the new disty is getting timed in soon. New exhaust and hangers are getting dropped in when I swap the tranny mounts, finally, and we'll see if the old beast will wake the dead once again.
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Hey Mark, 1-800 radiator might be able to hook you up if the junkyard piece doesn't work for you.
Also, I have been looking into potential replacement radiators from other models of cars. I'll share my findings with you as soon as I have something concrete.
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https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/6996421132.html
Not my listing, nor his listin, but found by @Txakura
EA63s don't show up very often and hopefully some of you guys will find a good home for it.
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I second Heartless' statement. I've had Beldon (Napa), BWD (Borg Warner), ID, (Import Direct), all fail on me, in multiple cars.
NGK is the only aftermarket (which is the OEM manufacturer for Subaru) that has ever lasted.
So I second it being a possible wire problem.
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LUK is who supplies Napa, and while I worked there, I never had any return under warranty that weren't blatantly abused/oil soaked. So I'd take that as a good sign.
I typically went with Sachs for my clutch kits, but idk if they're still Japanese/German made.
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That's a neat idea, until you think about the bellhousing adaptation required for it.
Then the weight and the suspension requirements that go along.
And then the dimension issue of getting it under the hood and behind the bumper.
Neat idea, but no more practical than importing a Subaru diesel.
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If your original gasket is still in good shape, you can reuse it. If you hit it with a glycerine wipedown, it'll help keep it nice and soft.
Also, as far as I know, the 2nd Gen BRAT and EA81 Coupe were essentially the same car from the A pillar forward. So a BRAT gasket or windshield should be the same.
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96 OBW with a 5sp and 2.2, and as upgraded of a trim package as you can get on it.
I liked it in blue.
2.2 Is non-interference, 5sp came with hill holder (last year available in that generation), and it has an actual "lift" on it compared to the 95 OBW, which was just a trim package.
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Remember, 1-3-2-4, counter clockwise.
Doesn't matter which contact is cyl 1 as long as you follow that order.
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Welcome!
Lucky for you, pretty much all the parts are identical between the RHD and LHD models. So junkyard scrounging will be easy to get parts for the new monster.
There's quite the repository of information here to peruse, so do all the reading you want.
Some quick tips on your current car: It is most likely not JDM, it's probably a postal vehicle.
That EJ22 is a non-interference engine, so if you happen to lose a timing belt, nothing is lost aside from the parts to replace the timing belt.
Since it's probably an automatic, a manual swap is pretty easy, and the pedal boxes will swap no problem.
And a traditional Subaru thing, if it's leaking a fluid, it just means it's not out of that fluid. And don't wash your engine bay. It'll make any leaks you have, worse.
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Can of seafoam and fresh gas in the tank. It'll clear any varnish/gunk from the fuel delivery system.
I didn't get to view the YouTube video yet, is it carbureted or fuel injected?
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Use a vice grip and the old belt to hold it in place once you get it close to set, or get a helper to hold it.
Another option (not exactly recommended, but a possible solution) is to count how many teeth off the cam gear is, then set your crank gear that many teeth off and set the belt that way. Rotate the engine to check alignment at TDC after attempting this.
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If you have a manual, put it in a gear, set the ebrake and wheel chock both sides of a front tire. Crank down on the bolt until it locks down tight. I think it's supposed to be set to 140 ft-lbs. So just bounce on the breaker bar a couple times and you should be fine.
If you have an automatic, you can try setting a prybar against the starter teeth on the torque converter, but that's risky. Not entirely sure how we did it previously without dismounting the transmission and engine from each other.
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Just so you know, when under suction with the thermostat in, the one of the hoses could be collapsing.
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I'm going to start with the stupid, easy to overlook stuff. I do this to myself, so don't be insulted.
Have you checked your fans to see if they're plugged in?
Are the wires broken or cut to the fan?
Have to checked your hoses to make sure they're not collapsing while under load/suction?
Did you replace your radiator cap?
Did you replace your water pump on your last timing belt change?
Did you make sure your coolant isn't disappearing?
Does the coolant level in your overflow tank fluctuate dramatically between hot and cold operation? Beyond the normal range indicated on the reservoir.
Have you tried filling up the coolant system by filling the block then the radiator?
Are you using the right mixture of coolant to water?
Did you lose a rag when you were doing any of this work on it?
Questions to ponder.
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So, I was doing some reading, and there's a possibility that you could get the stub shafts from a 4EAT to plug into the axle holes and then hook your axles onto those. If the transmission width is close enough with the stubs plugged in, then you'll just have to make sure to find a transmission with a mechanical center diff (they switched to a multiplate clutch system on the newest manuals) and then a wiring diagram to make an adapter to plug your wiring harness into.
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WBM 2023 Stafford CT tomorrow
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Posted
Fantastic! How many years has the wagon been up for sale? And I wish I was close enough to join in. Hope you get a good showing of old school rigs!
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