Olnick

Well of course. They always do. And yes, I too rack it up to my superior mechanical skills. Good job. Enjoy!

+1 what Fairtax said! Definitely get a 2nd opinion, even a 3rd. Try to find an independent Subaru shop. Then maybe contact Subaru (SOA) and ask to talk to a regional rep--the car shouldn't have that dire a problem at such low milage. Where is Belmont? Please add your state to your ID--someone may have a recommendation based on your location. Good luck Albert and let us know what you find out.

Good possibility, worth checking. I had an intermittent squeal that turned out to be a slightly loose nut holding the A/C idler--the idler would cock to the side and rub against the mounting arm for 10 or 15 seconds then straighten out and be just fine. Had to remove the radiator to get access to it. Oh well, needed to change coolant anyway and it gave me chance to backflush the radiator! Good luck.

WOW! Looks like you got a good 'un! That body looks great--now just stick all those loose parts under the hood and you'll be ready to go! Seriously, welcome aboard Bill. Obviously you've got some work ahead of you but you found a great place here--good folks who'll do their best to help you. All the best to you. Look forward to watching your progress.

Sounds like you're really serious! Did you get new idlers for the timing belt? If your water pump is not OEM, at least get an OEM gasket for it. Head gasket bolts are reusable so you probably didn't need new ones. Hope you got the right head gaskets. Not to be a nag but again I encourage you to search here on USMB and read up on HG and Timing Belt jobs. There's a wealth of information that can save you time, money and heartbreak! At any rate, best of luck to you. Let us know how it goes.

What kind of blinker fluid are you using?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the gas cap should hold pressure--you should hear that little whoosh of air when you unscrew it.

Most cars have a "resistor block" that controls the blower speed, usually in 4 steps. They can burn out, or maybe the connections have corroded. Should be in the wiring just before the blower itself. Good luck.

Gotta disagree with you there my friend. I think my EA82s and the First Gen Legacy were very attractive cars. They were (are) an extremely clean, neat expression of a functional no-nonsense vehicle. And the more I drove them the more beautiful they became. Ah, but beauty truly is in the eye of the beholder.

Great first post! Nice job--and welcome aboard.

Strongly suggest you use the search function on here and read up on head gaskets. The EJ25 engine is very picky about its HG needs.

Welcome Squint--great place here for everything Subaru. Just an observation, hope you ordered genuine Subaru head gaskets.

Off Topic: Thanks but I'm afraid the ladies would say just what your emoticon is saying! Motorized bicycle forum? Nope, 'taint me! Sorry. Back On Topic.

They don't call me Flying Fingers for nothing!

I feel for you friend, that's a real dilemma! Personally I'd go for the new belt and tuneup but since I'd be doing the work myself the investment (and potential loss) wouldn't be that great. Would you be doing it yourself or paying a shop to do it? The total cost is really the determining factor. Good luck with your decision, let us know how you go!

Actually there is one on the passenger side--it's at the rear of the head toward the firewall. But good suggestions.

Do you hear the starter's solenoid click when you turn the key?

What engine are you working on? We used theimportexperts belt on my son's '92 Legacy and so far it's just fine. But since it's a non-interference EJ22 no big worries if it should happen to fail. Good luck.

Many of us swear by MWE--rebuilt genuine Subaru axles. Quality is good and Marshall Wolf is a straight arrow guy to deal with. Here's a link: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/

Pulling the codes is the best place to start, might tell you everything you need to know. For a how-to look at Post #4 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125436 Good luck.

I know how you feel mike. Hang in there--I don't have an answer for you but I'm sure someone who does will chime in.

. . . to become a Donor and help keep USMB healthy. Please take a look at this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125493 Thanks shadow and everyone who is working to keep us up and running.

Have you tried looking on Craigslist? Personally I like private party deals over dealers and car lots. You have to judge the seller as well as the vehicle but if you're careful you can usually get more car for the buck! Good luck.

What's most likely? No way to know--that's why you have to pull the code!!! :-\ I just googled "Subaru OBD1 codes" and got this: http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm

1994 was the last year before Subaru went to OBD2 so there is no code reading device. You have to go under the dash and do the "secret handshake" to pull the codes. Here's a how-to that I saved a long time ago, hope it helps: "Underneath the steering column is a wide rectangular piece of plastic, the same color as the dash, which has a tray marked 'TRAY.' This large piece is held to the underside of the dash with a bunch of screws. Remove these screws and remove the plastic piece. Now there will be a bunch of wires for you to see. To the left of the steering column (at least in left hand drive cars) somewhere probably tucked away will be a bundle of wires with two pairs of electrical connectors which are disconnected. On some 92-94 MY Legacies the check connectors can be found on the right hand side of the steering column. One is black and connects one wire to one wire, the other is green and roughly 'T' shaped, this one also connects one wire to one wire. With the car turned completely off, connect the black connector. Next, turn the ignition to 'ON' but do not start the car. The idiot lights in the dash will come on, and some may go out after a few moments. Watch the 'check engine' light and maybe have something you can write on to remember the codes. If there is a fault code in the ECU, the 'check engine' light will begin to flash in a particular manner. The codes range in number from 11 to 52, so we know that they all will be two digits. To signify the tens place of the number, the 'check engine' light will flash a long (1.2 seconds) flash. The single digit will be a short (.2 seconds) flash. Each flash within the same code will be separated by .3 seconds. Each error code will be separated by 1.8 seconds. Don't bother trying to time all these, just watch the light and you will begin to understand. Once the ECU has flashed all stored codes, it will loop through and repeat them. Now, for example, you see two long flashes followed by two short flashes. This means you have a code number 22. By looking at the following chart, we see that 22 is the code for the knock sensor. Once you have read and recorded all faults, turn the ignition off and disconnect the black connector." By the way, overheating should not be a major concern in a '94 EJ22. Good idea to warm it up and check anyway though! Good luck.