kanurys

Nice work on the XT6, above. Today I lapped the valves and put permatorques on my ea82

Just heard back form Mispah. Total $55 shipped back to me, 8 ea82 lifters. Not a bad deal.

Thanks. That confirms what I already thought about vacuum routing. I'm going to run the dizzy close to stock... somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees advance. Yuck, rust-belt! I have a 98 outback that spent 2 or 3 years in Chicago before I bought it in Oregon. There are some signs of rust on underside components, but I think I got it in time. Now I live in Durango, CO and have the weber jetted for high altitude. This will be a fun rig up here when I get it on the mountain roads.

I was studying the FSM description of the PCV system. Right now I have the PCV valve totally independent of the breather tubes. I believe the way to do it right is to drill another hole in the Weber filter mounting plate and connect the passenger side vent to that hole. The Driver's side vent tube gets T'd to the stock hole in the weber plate and the PCV valve. This way, clean air is drawn across the crank case from the passenger side to the driver's side and the gas is then metered into the PCV valve just like the stock setup. I'll post pictures when I get to that point in my engine rebuild.

My understanding is, first of all, that EGR is good for less NOx emissions and cooler engine temps, as well as better cruising fuel economy. I'm keeping it instead of blocking off. The Weber should have a vacuum timing advance port on the front and another port plugged with a brass screw just near the timing advance port. That other port is for EGR. Run that line to the manifold temp switch and then to the egr. I'm not sure how to separately control the timing advance. I need another temp switch or some way to open up the advance once the engine warms. Ideas? Also, what is the gadget that connects to the EGR with the 5/8" pipe and sits off on the passenger side of the engine bay? It also has a small 1/8" vac line who's function and connection is also unknown to me. Can anyone answer that? thanks edit: I figured out that it's the anti after-burn valve. The large pipe goes to the EGR valve and the small vac line activates when the egr activates. I think I saw a post by GD that said it's not needed for the engine to run well.

Cool. Let us know how it turns out. TAKE SOME PICTURES. Almost forgot the non tangential information: Today I picked up oil with my girlfriend for her 2004 Impreza Sport. FYI, Valvoline synth blend is on sale at Oriely's auto parts (CSK).

This one had a mechanical switch stuck in the manifold. It's on a hitachi to webber converted unit. As I understand, the Weber has a vac port for the EGR. I can get a $17 switch from rock auto, since mine has been broken since I bought it. Also, my understanding doesn't incorporate bleeding the vac signal back from the air cleaner. When I've studied other models/systems it appears that the ported temp switch just cuts off the vac to the egr/distributor advance when it's cold. This vac signal flow is more of what I need confirmation on. I also might put the charcoal canister back in and actuate it when the egr actuates. Thanks for that tid bit, though. It all helps. Sesh

Interesting. Can someone describe the flow path of the ported vacuum temp switch? If I'm going to do this EGR correctly, I want to fully understand it.

Update: I picked up the throwout bearing spring clips, thermostat, oil relief springs and oil filter from the dealer. There is a noticeable difference in the spring rates of both cam carrier springs and the oil pump spring. The oil pump spring is about one millimeter longer than the old one, as well. Here is a picture with the part numbers (I think they cost me about $1.30 a pop): I wonder which one is OEM? Oh. Still waiting to hear from Mispah

Good to know about the nylon tube. I'll look into it. I've read a lot about the EGR controlling engine combustion temperatures, and throughout all of that I read nothing regarding the EGR ports having to "breath." Is there something I'm missing that effects the pressures in various parts of the engine that the EGR also accomplishes? Most of the people who have blocked the EGR have had no problems, right?

Interesting point. I've read and heard mixed ideas on this egr issue. To point one thing out, it is the one cylinder that isn't firing before the rebuild. Anybody else have input on this?

The way I see it, it's just an EA82. Make it reliable and enjoy doing the work. Go for the porting if you have the time to enjoy doing it yourself. Otherwise make that thing purrrr and be done with it. Oh, I forgot to mention I painted the oil fill cap.

Mechanical oil pressure, voltage is self explanatory, and capillary style water temp. Careful not to accidentally kink or crimp the capillary tube. And keep the plastic oil sender tube away from the exhaust or anything moving. I think they make a copper replacement you can buy to replace the plastic. I have the stock tach on the GL gauge cluster. if you're going to go with aftermarket, an electric is probably the simplest way to go. Just be very solid in your electrical connections for it. I'll post up some more pics as I get the engine further down the road (ahem...)

Here's a hole in my firewall, oil sender and the Sunpro cheapo gauge cluster: In the other photos in the link you can see the metric to sae adapter in the intake manifold.

Cool, I will post pics today or tomorrow. As far as the guages go, I bought one of those $25 3 in 1 kits at autozone and went online to the manufacturer website and purchased a metric conversion kit for about $5+shipping. It's essentially a bolt in setup, except the electrical portion, which I bought some little splice dealies and spliced into the cigarett lighter for voltage and the cig lighter dash light for ilumination of the gauges and dimming control. The way I have the light for the gauges setup is kind of neat. Since it's a negative ground system and the dimmer is at full resistance when the dash lights are brightest it dims with the dash lights when vehicle lights are on. When they're off the gauges are at full brightness. next to the oil sender on the oil pump there is a plug you can remove and install the 1/8 pipe thread fitting with the compression flair on the other end. This way you can keep your dash sender as well. Search around some more I found all but the metric conversion trick on here. I'll be back with the pics.

First of all, I welcome any advice or ideas anyone on this forum would like to contribute because it will not only contribute to my build but will help all others who are apart of this online community. A vehicle from Arizona with about 140,000 miles, and all original when I bought it, this 1987 GL EA82 is carburated and has a dual range transmission. The first thing I did was install aftermarket voltage, oil pressure and temperature gauges so I could keep an eye on things. The second thing I did was tear out that Hitachi/miles of vac line and install a Weber. It fired up on the first crank. I drove it for a few months like this but something ominous was happening. In the middle of winter, the temp dropped well below 0 degrees F, the coolant froze and the engine overheated on my way to work. Since then, it had ever increasing white smoke out the exhaust. To confirm this, it also ate coolant fairly quickly and there was white sludge in the oil fill tube and ventilation pipes from the valve covers. I also noticed that cylinder #3 (passenger side rear, I think?) was only firing once in a while when the engine wasn't fully warmed up. I decided to rebuild the entire engine for the hell of it. Here is a list of what I'm planning for this vehicle and what has been done: Engine rebuild -complete reseal -sachs clutch kit -Felpro Permatorque head gaskets -rebuilt lifters by Mispah Precision Machining -new OEM oil relief springs in pump and cam carriers -valve stem seals -blocked off egr ports on intake manifold -block off egr port on top of passenger side head with 16mm x 1.25 oil drain plug -blocked off air suck valve ports on heads -yellow engine enamel on pulleys, ps bracket, ac/alternator bracket, valve covers, hard coolant pipes, oil pan, upper strut brace, thermostat housing -engine/transmission mounts? -reseal oil pump seal/gaskets -new water pump -OEM thermostat and oil filter -plane the heads. (Victory Machine in Cortez took off about .006") 4" lift (SJR - not yet purchased) 5 29" AT tires on Mitsu***************i Montero steel rims (craigslist for $150!) A pictorial guide to my shop time: http://picasaweb.google.com/kanurys/81110GLEngine?feat=directlink -Sesh

Pulled the EA82 (webberized) from my '87 GL for a rebuild. Got it all cleaned up and taken apart down to the short block. -Painted all pulleys, misc brackets, upper strut brace, hard pipes and oil pan, valve covers -New Water pump just got installed instead of studying for school... -ordered oem oil relief springs, thermostat, oil filter -made block-off plates for the air suck valve ports in the heads and egr on intake manifold -Plugged egr on top of passenger side head with new 16mm x 1.25 oil drain plug (looks good) -Valve stem seals -Fel Pro permatorques -Sent HLA's to Mispah for rebuild -resurfaced heads, flywheel (new sachs clutch kit) -reseal entire engine, all oil pump seals/gaskets Shoot, I will just make another thread to keep track of this thing. There are so many points to list that I won't do it all here. Any suggestions, while I'm at it? -Sesh

After a few months and the hitachi sucking more fuel and running more rough then ever, I decided to bite the bullet, get the high altitude jet kit and get that carb on there. I'll give the old rat's nest a little credit. It did consistently start at -5 deg F. But finally, it was failing. Onwards: I'm starting to get the jetting right. This rig hasn't been over 10,000 ft. yet, and I'lll post when it gets there, but for now here's the jetting I have set up that makes the ea82 purr at 6,600 ft (keep in mind this is a well used EMPI Weber knock-off): Primary Main Jet: 130 Secondary Main Jet: 140 Primary Air Corrector: 180 Secondary Air Corrector: 170 Primary Idle Jet: 65 Secondary Idle Jet: 55 I expect the secondary main to be a little rich when I get high , as well as the idle jets, but right now, it seems to run like a charm. Thoughts, comments?

Here is a diagram I found on another forum. It's not a Subaru, but I assume the system is similar. I still think it would be a good idea to purge the charcoal canister when the EGR is also activated, instead of the timing vac advance.

10/4, thanks. That is exactly what I was thinking, but I don't fully understand the canister hook-up and how to properly actuate the purge valve. Maybe actuate it's purge off of the same as the egr vac line from the carb? Oh well. Back to plan A: pull charcoal canister, vent tank somewhere inside engine bay and leave weber vapor recovery open. Kill trees and breathe fumes. Just out of curiosity, is anybody running a charcoal canister with their weber and would be willing to tell us how it's all plumbed in? Sesh

I'm doing a weber swap on my 1987 GL, ea82. Can I remove the charcoal canister and hook the fuel tank vent line directly to the vapor recovery port on my weber? It would be nice to have filtered air going in that return vent line and the extra vapors as well as be a little more protected from water getting to the vent line. Will this effect the performance of the carb or is the amount of air going back in the vent line negligible? Is there a safety hazard with venting vapors back into the gas tank? Do I need some sort of check valve letting flow go into the tank but not back? Thanks, Sesh

Thanks for your input, guys. I now see how any used carb shouldn't be sold for very much unless they're already rebuilt. This is getting pricey quick. I know what I have to do...

I bought a carb that I thought was a used weber for $150. It arrived nicely packaged and I tore into it to inspect... Turns out it is actually an EMPI copy. I've done a fair amount of searching and it looks like the EMPI is just a chinese clone. The 2nd barel butterfly sticks and doesn't close quite right and the electric choke is over-torqued on at the mounting screws so that the bracket tabs are actually bent a little bit. What do you guys think? Should I ask the seller for a discount and just rebuild the carb and use it, or not worry about it, or sell it? I know it's a deal, but we all know about how these carbs wear. The bushings are a little loose but not too bad. I think I could make it work. What value would this carb be to you if you had it? Thanks

Don - Thanks for the response. I'll keep him in mind as I get to the tuning steps in my install. I read that the stock jetting is mostly only efficient at 0-4000 ft. so I'm sure I'll be playing with the jets over time.

What experience do you guys and girls (any? haha) have with jetting a weber dgev for high altitude? I live at 6600 ft and will only be driving up, say to 14,000 max on 4x4 trips. I can always go with the trial and error method, but I was wondering if there is anyone with this similar situation. -Sesh