kanurys

Thanks, will do.

Now to get the lift kit from our group buy we have in the classified section on and drill out the mitsubishi rims for 4 bolt. And a little tweaking of the Weber is in order. The HLAs ticked mildly for about 5 minutes, then they all just stopped ticking. It's probably the quietest I'll ever hear an EA82 (at idle ).

I would love to extend the deadline for more discount, as long as Scott is still making money, too. Lets give it till.... Tuesday? Where else can we drum up more customers without intruding on forum rules, here?

a little twist of the distributor and it smoothed out to a creamy idle.

We'll see what the actual count is from SJR after tonight. Markjw, lets let the mods figure out what they're doing and not push the issue any further. The minor cross posting we did (in their eyes) does clutter up the forum and we benefit from these kind of policies. Though, I was also posting a 1-liner addendum to my daily updates in the "What have you done to your subie lately" thread, they still didn't like that. They have to have a little sympathy: we're excited to get our lifts!

Sorry, I thought you were referring to the other post in the Want To Buy section. I'll refrain from any more cross posting, now that your criteria are clear. Thanks

I borrowed my neighbor's engine hoist and slung the 95hp beast in. Dry cranked it for a few and then gave it a little spark. It fired right up. Pics tomorrow...

I'm placing my order right now. Credit Card through sjrlift.com will be cheaper since paypal takes a percentage...

Today I drew up designs for my own PCV oil catch can using a quart canning jar and a little sheet metal + beer can. I'll post up as the prototype it is built. The inspiration is CMILLER's Perrin can. Also, we need one more person for the SJR lift kit group buy! If you were planning on lifting your rig, hit up the classified section. With 1 more the discount will be %25 off.

That's great. Guys, lets rally for 2 more! Scott, how would you like us to pay for these and give you our info?

I'd be game for this... I'm in for a 4" EA82. that appears to be about a 25% discount. Higher/lower? Oh yeah, I can paypal or any other suggested means.

http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=6&Itemid=100054

Alright, we have 5 for sure and 2 maybe's. Scott, any thoughts about pricing (if we have 7 kits paid for) and maybe a cut off time?

Does anyone want to get in on the SJR group buy? We're doing several kinds of lift kits as described in the thread in the classifieds section. Go there to voice your interest. Today I picked up a battery tray and hold down kit. The old one was hanging on by a rusty thread and an old solid core wire.

There are only a couple of wires. If it even needed extending, it would be an easy job. I'd like to put the radio in the glove box, too. I just bought my push button switch for the starter. Can't wait to fire up my newly rebuild ea82 with that switch for the first time. Isn't the starter switch in the ignition already on a relay? I just had a fun thought: what if you put another switch in the engine compartment for when you're working on it? ahahahahaha.

Right on. That is excellent, Scott. There are at least 3 of us. I know there are more of you out there. Lets get this thing rolling. (no pun intended, initially) Would a MOD be able to change the title to include the things Scott added: EA81 4" lift EA82 2" lift EA82 3" lift EA82 4" lift ? Thanks.

I've been emailing with Scott of SJR about doing another group buy. We're working out details (terms of the discount, etc...) still, but it looks like if we can put an order together that is over $1000 he will go for it. I'd like to be hopeful and see if we can go beyond $1000, but I guess we'll see. Can you give a show of hands for who is ready to purchase a 4" SJR EA82 lift kit? Thanks, Scott, for giving us this opportunity (again).

I cleaned up the routing of everything in the engine bay after I painted the battery corner. Pics are just of the sanding and fresh paint. It's still kind of a jungle in there. I pulled the tank vent line, capped the fuel return line, and stripped the wiring harness down the the factory oil pressure sender wire and the electric choke wire. Tonight I might install a copper oil gauge sender tube:

Interesting. The timing belts have been on for a day and they were a little loose when I checked them again, today. I guess the new belts stretched for their first time, while just sitting, stationary. I re-tensioned and will check back after run in.

I agree with GD's statement, but the way you have this one hooked up in the picture will still suck oil from the heads. The left and the right breathers need to be independent from each other to create cross-flow. The diagram in the FSM is very accurate and is what I based my design on. I outlined it in my engine build, including a weber setup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&page=4

A little engine degreaser goes a long ways. Also an almost complete rebuild makes the degreasing easier. Here's a link to my process: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817 Oh, and ditch that hitachi for a weber. That will clean a huge mess of vac lines and wires up.

I figured out a few things: When Cold: The thermo vacuum switch bleeds air from the air cleaner into the egr and timing advance nodes of vacuum, effectively reducing the vacuum in those respective lines, keeping egr closed and 0 advance on the ignition timing. At these nodes supplying vac to the egr and distributor, the respective vac lines from thermo vac switch are t-ed in. Another effect of the air bleeding in is it leans out the air/fuel mixture a little while the choke is closed. When Hot: No air can flow in or out of any of the ports on the thermo vac switch and the egr valve sees vac signal when it's supposed to and the disty advance sees vac when it's supposed to. No air is bleeds into the intake or bypasses the throttle plate. How did I do? I always thought it was the other way around, the switch just cut off the vac supply. Instead it nullifies it. Cool. Here's the vac switch all hooked up: Above, you can see where the EGR is T-ed into the valve. Below, underneath everything you can see where the distributor advance is T-ed in to the valve. I got fresh air from the hose that goes from the pcv system to the air cleaner: Thanks for all the advice you guys threw my way. Before: After:

Here's the vac switch all hooked up: Above, you can see where the EGR is T-ed into the valve. Below, underneath everything you can see where the distributor advance is T-ed in to the valve. I got fresh air from the hose that goes from the pcv system to the air cleaner: Thanks for all the advice you guys threw my way.

Nice. Also helpful information. Thanks. I'll post pictures regarding how my routing turned out.

Verify me on this, folks: When Cold: The thermo vacuum switch bleeds air from the air cleaner into the egr and timing advance nodes of vacuum, effectively reducing the vacuum in those respective lines, keeping egr closed and 0 advance on the ignition timing. At these nodes supplying vac to the egr and distributor, the respective vac lines from thermo vac switch are t-ed in. Another effect of the air bleeding in is it leans out the air/fuel mixture a little while the choke is closed. When Hot: No air can flow in or out of any of the ports on the thermo vac switch and the egr valve sees vac signal when it's supposed to and the disty advance sees vac when it's supposed to. No air is bleeds into the intake or bypasses the throttle plate. How did I do? Thanks for the pics, again. I always thought it was the other way around, the switch just cut off the vac supply. Instead it nullifies it. Cool.