kanurys

Thanks guys. I was thinking of grounding the radiator if I used it. This way I'll save a little dough. Is the temp rating similar for the EA81 vs. EA82 style switch?

I ordered a two spade terminal radiator fan temp switch from rockauto. They sent me a single pin switch. I'm running an after-market fan and spdt relay. I understand how the two node switch works. How does the single pin switch work (how does it ground)? Is there a way I can use this one instead of the two spade one? Rock auto already issued me a credit for the shipped temp switch and let me keep it. 1987 GL.

Thanks Yo'J. It looks like I did it right. Just replaced an axle. It was not installed correctly by the PO. Here is a link to the thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925 On another note, I installed the PCV catch jar. It works great. I get more condensation in it than oil, but it definitely keeps some oily gunk out of the intake. Forgive the tacky prego jar. I plan on making a nicer mount and getting longer hoses in the future. I have to take more pics with the lift, but here are a few teasers.

Well I tore some things up. Turns out (no pun intended) it definitely wasn't aligned correctly. Pics: I used a depth guage to cut just the right depth, using the new axle as a reference. Somewhere on here a member was analyzing the differences in axles. This re-man looks smaller in diameter than the previous one... Thanks for your help, again, everyone.

aaaand we're on to the cutoff wheel... update with a pic of the old axle after the break.

I was kind of surprised at this one. I got it to budge with a NEW 3/16" punch and 3lbs sledge, but it is still hanging up on the way out. This is after a little splitting of the actual pin on the protruding end. Waiting for cutoff wheel as a last resort. I know this subject is like tires. It has been beat into the ground on this forum:horse:, but I thought I'd give the new thread a shot... thanks.

Maybe that's the case... but it sure looks off. It's not an original axle, so it might be a re-man and the hole is not drilled quite right... none the less this thing is a bastard(can we say that on here? ).

Thanks guys. I appreciate your support. I've already tried the different sized punches, so I guess it's on to the grinder(interesting suggestion Mark).

I was looking at the Treadwrights, as well, to put on my AA rims. Right now I'm running 235/75/15 Firestone AT's on old re-drilled Montero rims. I had to do some trimming and inside-fender-well pounding with those, but they will fit. I can't wait to find an EJ...

My driver's side front axle has given up the ghost. I went to drive the pin out, and it is stuck. I thought, well, I've dealt with this sort of thing before... But my usual tricks aren't working because of the following. Upon further inspection I can see the diff stub on the non-chamfered side and the roll pin sticks out 1/4" on the other side. I can see that the holes aren't quite lined up, just like when the axle is 180 degrees out of alignment. My usual tools (3/16" punch/little screwdriver/etc...) won't work to remove this thing since the holes aren't aligned. Any ideas to get this spring pin out? For the record, it was the PO that installed it like this.

I just beat my metal, today. I mean, the 29's rub a little on the inside rear of the front wheels. BFH:clap:

I love this stuff. This is really good info. The nitty-gritty. Thank you both. Both of you have successfully squelched my apprehension to swap around differentials. Thanks for the help.

Cool, thanks guys, I'm not timid in the least about attempting the swap. I just want to gain a better understanding of what cars can be swapped. I know XT's and RX's and late 80's GL-10's etc, but I didn't know it was the same diff chunk in the early legacys as stated earlier in this thread. I thought those were completely open diffs, as well, so didn't pay much attention to them. Thanks

since we're pulling this tread up again, I might as well ask (excuse the newbie-ness to rear diffs): -When you guys say "chunk" are you referring to the diff carrier, itself? -So as I read it, legacy 3.9 lsd's can fit into an ea82 non-lsd diff housing with little modification (grinding) to the housing, but everything else will bolt up? Or are you guys moving the ring and pinion from the ea82 3.9 to the legacy carrier? I though legacys were 4.something. -And what is with the spline count differences between ea82's and legacys? There aren't too many lsd 80's cars out here in the 4 corners area but there are a lot of legacys in the yards.

How's the EJ coming? I have an 87 on a 4" lift with 29's. I'd love to see what you do to fit the EJ25 in the EA82... On another note, what about a franken motor? EJ25 block + EJ22 everything else. There is some stuff written on this, but I was wondering how it measured/fit in the EA82 frame, vs others. Can't wait for an update, SK

I wouldn't worry about it. When I rebuilt my EA82 and put rebuilt lifters in, I noticed that the two inner sleeves on both heads were sticking out a little further than the 2 on the ends (just like one of yours). I put it all back together and it has been running smooth. I'd just leave it alone.

I just rebuilt an EA82. I learned the hard way that you should just get OEM Subaru branded gaskets, at least for both manifolds to the block. I also used OEM brand seals on the oil pump shaft and rear crank seal. I got them online real cheap by searching. Also, the Orielly folks screwed up on my clutch kit. They specked me the wrong one, so I kindly returned it and ordered the correct one. I think there is a picture of the part number on my thread or the link to my pics. (not that it is the same spline count as yours...?) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817 Anyways, good luck and hit us up if you have any questions.

Things I've done since my last post: -Installed 4" SJR lift kit -Re-wired the electric fan to come on via relay and possibly will install another -deleted the pulley driven fan -Got OEM gaskets and fixed the coolant leak at the carb -Made my own PCV oil seperator with a few fittings and a spaghetti sauce jar. So far, I've caught about 3 oz of oil on it's way to my intake and a bunch of condensed water. Pics to come...

I installed my 4" SJR kit and grabbed a front turn signal from the yard. Things are looking good for winter.

I have 5 montero rims. I think I will drill them out soon. 1/2 inch bit, hu? I'll probably bevel the edges with 2 sizes bigger... Let us know what you use.

Thanks man. No worries about the measurement. I was just curious. I think most people hit up the Miata site for size (1st useful google link). I'm installing 29's under the 4", so there will be a little more modification/cutting. I also picked up a set of AA 15's for cheap from a forum guy - It's great when you meet new people and they know your friends (local)! I might put 27's on those for a little more torque, but an inch less lift than the 29's. Oh the options... I'll try to remember to post pics here after it's all done... Thanks for the pics of the shift linkage, etc...

Mark, That thing looks great! That gives me an idea of how mine will look when I'm done. I painted my kit with orange rustoleum. Otherwise, I'll be doing the same thing. The rafter trick is cool. There is a nice beam right over where I will be installing it... I'll take some pictures, too, and put them in my build thread. I also dig the fender flairs. By the way, what size tires are those? How much clearance do you have under the rear diff? Thanks

So right now Operation PandaWagon is relegated to Operation Sad PandaWagon? Also, I made an oil separator/catch can out of a prego jar (prototype) and installed it between my driver's side pcv vent and the pcv valve. No oil caught yet, which probably means I've been driving like a nice boy....

That's probably what I'll end up doing, too. But I'll also measure to see how close my calcs are - just for fun.

Right on. Do you have a year range? My guess is that it would be all years, but like I said.... guess.