kanurys

Miles - I'd say it's coincidental, too. Fuel cap is on, and new, but the vent line is uncapped, so the tank is breathing, anyways. I had the same thought that a siphon occurred to pull the gas out while the vent was near the same level as the tank. My fuel gauge was around 1/8 when I parked it and it read just above E when I found it in the morning. I still think that I should hook up the return line and the vent to the proper spots on the Weber and watch for more problems. I'll also do a check for rust, etc... You say the lines run inside the cabin under plastic retainers? I assume this is on the drivers side.

I usually park my 87 Weber'd GL with the nose uphill on my sort of steep driveway. Last night I backed in and parked with the nose down. It poured rain all night (kind of rare here in Durango) and when I encountered it this morning there was a trail of gas down the driveway through the water. Inside, the driver's foot well was soaked with gas and water. I popped the hood and checked out the vent line and return line. I couldn't tell if it was condensate or a dropp of gas on one of them but the area looked like it had gas on it that had evaporated. This gas smell is a reoccurring problem, but I haven't seen signs of it in a few months until now. I could never figure out what it was. The rear vapor canister is fine. I only have the supply fuel line running to the Weber, no other lines. Maybe I'll try to hook up the return and vent to the Weber and see if this problem goes away. Any ideas?

At least it's almost summer.

so how's the wagon going?

Also, the EGR actually helps extend engine life and keeps emissions down. I'd reinstall it and hook it up to the plugged port on the carb next to the timing advance (it's for EGR). If you do this I'd also hook up the thermo-vacuum switch which screws into the intake next to the thermostat. This switch bleeds air into the egr control vacuums and timing advance, disabling them until the engine is warmed up. I did a little writeup in the same thread the above post is from about that. Oh, it also helps fuel economy when cruising.

Here's how I setup my PCV system on the EA82 with a Weber. So far it seems to work GREAT. I even put a catch can between the driver's side head and the T to the pcv valve. It keeps some oily and wet stuff from getting into the intake. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=950800&postcount=35

Nice catch. I didn't mean to come off harshly. We usually get some kids who don't read the post and just comment without any content. This site is great because many of us post valid information with little flaming compared to other forums. The O2 sensors in discussion are both the upstream and downstream of the 96-99 outbacks, but in my case I'm concerned with the 98 legacy outback.

I assume you're asking me to identify what car I have. The answer is stated clearly in the first post. Yes, I thought I'd post the link to a cheap front Bosch O2 sensor since we're discussing O2 sensors here and that seems to be the more important one. What can you contribute?

How does it run? Any improvement in MPG or CEL? The front one is the only one I haven't bought yet. my local Napa sells it for the same as Subaru online - aobut $100. I found this one on amazon for quite a bit less: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13702-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZEILQ

I just ordered a downstream Denso sensor from Amazon for $54 + 3 shipping. Going OEM for upstream, as listed above. Also got an new OEM knock sensor off of ebay for $42 shipped. Those are some of the better prices I could find.

What model of car did you do this on?

Its $102.44 for OEM front sensor from subarugenuineparts.com

The way it makes sense to me is this: Running an after-market purchased sensor is a crap shoot. It could work fine or it could be the wrong range, etc, for the computer. If you want to be sure of compatibility and trouble free replacement, get the OEM sensor. There goes my scotch money.

Thanks guys. I was on the fence, but no more. I'll put the front O2 sensor on my OEM order list. I think both of you gave the most definitive answer I've read on the subject and even included pro-arguments. Not on my OEM list: Pedders HD lift springs and GR2's. (already in the mail) I've installed theimportexpers timing kits on my other scoobs with good results, too.

Do you guys know which brand and model of front and rear O2 sensor is the same as the Subaru sensors from the dealer? any pictures with stamped logos/numbers or anyone want to check? I've searched a ton for this info, but all I can find is people doing the usual talk of "just get it at the dealer". I'm interested in saving money, here. This is for my 1998 Legacy Outback. edit: I did find this link to bolster discussion: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=717532

Are the threads and hole size for the plug on the side of the radiator on my EA82 the same as the dimensions for the temp switch for the fans? It's the plug right next to the temp switch but on the passenger-side end of the radiator. My plan is to run two completely independent cooling fan systems (switch/relay/fan) for redundancy. I currently have one. Maybe I'll post a pic to help clarify... (And why is the site having so many database errors every few minutes?)

I just subscribed to your youtube stuff. Good work on everything and great documentation. You're inspiring me to take more pics/vid of my work and to fix the little bit of rust on the GL.

Man that sucks. That stretch of 160 is nasty. Another thing to consider about CO is that your car will run differently with the thinner air. You'll notice a little less power, naturally, as the ecu compensates. SOA suggests that you run 87 octane or higher gas above 5000 feet elevation. I usually have a blend of regular and plus in my tank since we're cruising around at 6700+ and rarely go lower in Durango. It seems to make the car more happy - i.e. run more clean and with more power. When the knock sensor detects pre-detonation (which is reduced with higher octane gas) the ecu retards timing until the knock goes away. If it's not sensing correctly, it can drastically effect emissions. I had a knock sensor circuit failure code come up on the EJ25. I pulled the sensor, cleaned it's metal surfaces thoroughly and reinstalled. I could hear the improvement in engine performance and started getting a few mpg higher. Where are you moving from, subynut? Nice battery tie down. That's exactly what I have on my lifted 87 GL.

What area of CO are you thinking about moving to? Like stated above, Denver area is the only really stringent place for emissions laws. If you drive there form the rockies side, you'd see why. SMOGGGGGG. Just a pointer on the intake air temp: if you have an Android phone there is an app called Torque! which can monitor all the engine sensors via bluetooth OBDII sender. I just bought one for $17 shipped on ebay and can't wait to analyze my EJ25D. - it also does logging. Just about anywhere in the mountains or on the westslope there are no emissions laws. People there are more friendly, too.

At least you know what you did wrong and can fix it. Check out some of the tutorials/primers on that same website. They have some good tips for installing components, etc...

Being a novice is great! Everything you do contributes to the learning curve. I'm excited to see your project finalized, like everyone else here. If you have any soldering or wiring questions feel free to shoot them my way. Doing this MegaSquirt stuff makes stripping the ECU harness look simple, hu?

And make sure the letter on the face of the star rotor and cylinder rotor that both spin are facing the same way. I think there is some sort of tolerance issue there, too, which could cause binding... I can't remember if the correct direction is towards the engine or away. Guys?

I've been messing with logic controllers for a long time, now. I've used many brands of jumper and the quality varies greatly. Here is a link to a relatively cheap set that is good quality (no broken wires/crimps/soldiers internally) http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8430 -kanurys

Same, here. My EJ25D looses more oil via PCV system than my N/A EA82. I have a catch can on the EA82 and mostly just get water. It prevents some oil from reaching the intake when I'm on steep hills or off camber slopes. I'd say definily get it working right for the EA82T, which would definily have more oil in the PCV system. I'm thinking about installing the same kind of can on the EJ.

Gotchya. That would make sense if I were to adjust by 1 degree. I guess Camber plates are the best option. Any other ideas that might work? Maybe I could modify the lift spacer slightly. Move the captive nuts or something.