kanurys

either your choke is binding and staying choked, you have vacuum leak problems somewhere, or you have the wrong jetting. Easily it's something else, but I'd check those things first.

Got the replacement mirror put on the outback. Also made progress with my gps. I have to make a power regulator for it and then throw it in for some testing. I think the 20x4 lcd will fit great in place of the dash clock on the GL.

That's good info! I know my engine's running smooth, but I also know that the after-market cheapo oil gauge only reads semi accurate at higher pressures. At idle it reads 0 and the dash gauge reads just above 0. Then at 2500 it reads 25ish and the dash gauge reads around 10psi. (all fully warm, of course) Is the after market gauge inaccurate because air has gotten into the line between the oil pump and the gauge? Maybe I'll try bleeding it again at the gauge side.

No prob, newb. Just help someone else out since you're gaining experience too. Isn't it amazing how big an effect those little parts have on the whole engine? BTW, if your oil pressure is that high when the engine is warm, you may consider running slightly lighter oil just for longevity of the seals. eh.... well, your numbers aren't that bad. It looks pretty healthy. When I start my car at 0 degrees F, the oil pressure is up around 60 and then slowly drops to rev-able levels. Dang, I need a block heater...

One thing which can effect oil pressure at the lifters is the relief spring in the cam carrier. If they're weak or stuck open they could dramatically reduce the amount and pressure of oil reaching the lifters. When I replaced mine, the old ones were about 1 or 2 mm shorter than the new ones. I could even feel the difference in spring rate. Also, my 10w30 is down around 10psi at warm idle after a recent complete reseal. It moves up around 25 at 2500rpm.

+1^^. I used a small flat head screwdriver to peel the old sealant right out. Don't use just any old o-ring. The new version is rubber coated metal - much better. Make sure that the surface which leads to the pressure relief/banjo bolt that squirts all over the cam lobes is really clean and without scratches. That is another oil pressure loss spot, but isn't designed to be sealed w/ sealant. While you're in there, it isn't a bad idea to change the relief springs, as well. I think they're about $2 from the dealer. The cam carrier oil relief springs are a different part number than the oil pump pressure relief spring.

going with the hill stopper, eh?

Dang, you beat me to it!

Yeah, I see the check engine light on. Just joking around. It's been a while since I've been that fast in a car.

GD, I think it was your suggestion which worked well for me. I lined the gasket with the proper RTV and let it dry before installing. Then put just a thin film on again at install. It seemed to reinforce the gasket allowing a good seal.

The oil pan bolts should only be an RCH more than finger tight or you'll split the cork gasket. I learned that one the hard way.

Latest update: installed new radiator fan/thermo switch (thin and cheap) switched carb jets to 130/140 mains, 180/200 air correctors. Ordered GPS parts to replace dash clock. Re sealed carb mount w/ OEM gaskets. Runs like a dream, and rubs at full lock like a dream.

I turned my crank while rebuilding my ea82. No issues. I'm not sure if it was rust in the cylinders from sitting open to air for 2 months or the new valve seals, but it smoked after engine braking for the first 200 miles. Now, nothing smoky is even detected and the oil level stays constant so I chalk it up to break in. Some say don't use any RTV on the oil pump and some say put the thinest layer possible. I tried a thin thin thin layer and didn't have any hint of particles in the oil stream. I also replaced the seal behind the oil pump pulley with a new NOK (OEM). No leaks is AWESOME! The part is listed on my thread or in the pictures in the link of the first post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&highlight=1987+build+thread Have fun and make sure your lifters are in good shape while you're in there. They make the timing run SO smooth.

I replaced the 130 secondary main jet on my weber with a 140. Man, it's amazing how smooth the rpm runs through the throttle travel, now. I can't remember my exact jetting, but up here at 6512 ft I have something like: Main 1: 130 Air 1: 180 Main 2: 140 Air 2: 200 Idle jets are 1 step bigger from ea82 sea level recommendation. I know it's kind of a weird setup, but I drive to very high altitudes (9000-12000 ft) and when I'm going slow on the gravel roads, I mostly use the first barrel of the carb. When I'm in town and lower altitudes I stomp on it more with traffic and what not and need more enrichment. Mileage isn't superb, but the 87 GL's rolling on 29's (20mpg in town, 27 up high). What else...? Oh, I took apart my broken 1998 outback mirror. Any body have one with good motors/housing to send me? PM please. The way they're actuated is interesting. What else...? Right, my GPS project is shipped and on it's way (thanks SPARKFUN.com). I'm going to replace my dash clock with a 20x4 LCD with GPS location, time, altitude, etc. There's a gadget thread with the plan somewhere on the forum.

I just put a canning jar with the two hoses spliced with the lid in. It's clear so I can see what is in it. Usually I catch condensed water and some minor oil sludge over a few weeks. I'm sure it's helping somehow and I do check it often. The cool part is it doesn't require much maintenance aside from unscrewing and dumping it out.

hahaha. niiice. Are you talking about the car, or the dummy in the car? It's non-smoking all around.

Cool ^. Show us pictures. I bought some of the GPS and circuit board parts and started writing the c++ code for the unit I'm going to replace the clock with in my lifted GL. http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno

Cool, thanks Yo. I was thinking that the EGR activates when the engine isn't in a sensitive state, off of the Weber. This is also a good time to introduce the vapors stored in the charcoal canister. So far, plugging the vent port on the carb (I know, not a great long term idea) has stopped the fuel smell.

Hmmm. Those ultrasonic parts cleaners should only use what is recommended for what material they're made out of. Most caustics will eat aluminum and stainless away quickly. These machines work best with an emulsion fluid which suspends debris well and is still really not pretty to smell or for the environment. I use citrus based cleaners, elbow grease and a little bit of crazy.

I also am interested. If it were up to me, I'd rebuild the engine myself but I understand that many people don't have that luxury. I bought an axle from the gentleman who ccr recommended. MWE is the company and it has been solid, without problems on my EJ car. Anyways, I believe that the way a company handles it's problems is just as important as the quality of it's product. I give that in my own service to customers in my industry and it has proved fruitful.

From what I can tell, fuel vapor is not coming from the rear canister. I think it's accumulating from the weber vapor vent and the problem is exacerbated by the cold temps. This is all the more reason to put the charcoal canister back in. I think I'll actuate it off of the EGR vac line. Yo'j, how do you actuate yours?

Mine are just sticking out of the firewall uncapped. I was toying with the idea of reinstalling the charcoal canister with the weber and using the vent line from the tank, again. Also I have a fuel fitting with a 1/8" barb for the return line to install that, too Do you guys know wich one is the fuel return hard line and the vent hard line next to the brake booster? I can't remember.

If the oil is too thick it just won't crank over - would sound like a dying battery. I run 10w30 and my ea82 fires up fine at -10 degreese F in the morning. Not even any lifter tick. It sounds like there was something else wrong or not properly adjusted in the valve train. I just replaced all the seals and nothing is leaking. It worries me a little bit to reach high oil pressures when it's thick, but no problems so far. Idealy you should put a heater on the oil pan over night, for true engine health. Best, SK

I'm having a similar problem. The interior smells of gasoline weather it has been sitting or while driving. It started abruptly a week ago and is continuous. We've been having sub-zero temps. Maybe that cracked that rear vapor canister or something else plastic. My EA82 is weber-ed and is stripped of all the charcoal canister stuff and what not just like dwuollet. There are also no visible signs of fuel leaks on any of the rubber fuel hoses. I'll check under the back seat and the canister in the rear of the car... On another note, when I pulled it into my warm garage and it sat for a while, the smell had mostly gone away. I'm thinking it has something to do with the extreme outside temps. Should the fuel return lines and the return vent line by the brake booster be capped off? I figure cap the fuel return, but let the vent be open to breath. What do you guys think?

Yes, use a DPDT relay and sire the parking lights through the always-on terminal. Then switch the relay with the power going to the signal light so that when the blinker is on it cuts out the parking light and visa versa.