kanurys

Alright. I received the new mounts and installed them. I dropped the exhaust manifold off of the engine, which helped a ton. There is a little more vibration and I can hear some low frequency harmonics at different speeds but all in all it feels WAY WAY better than the old stock rubber. The group N engine mounts are about 1/4" more wide than the stock mounts, and have harder rubber. The 1998 legacy outback transmission mount has about 1/3 of the rubber that the group N transmission mount has and is almost spongy. The group N mount is as hard as a rock, too. Thanks for your advice, Fairtax

Thanks for your help and interest. I'm usually a great sleuth when it comes to information, but for some reason there aren't many specifics on what is exactly compatible with a 1998 outback. There is info on almost everything after 98... I'm currently doing a full suspension/steering refresh and want to do the engine mounts to compliment it. Maybe a short throw shifter and new bushings. What do you think of the ebay cheapo short throw lever? Is there a better way to get short throw? I think the shift lever is the only leverage point, and therefore the only part to modify. Back in VW days, there were a few other linkages which were re-lengthened and you kept the shift lever the same. Anyways, thanks for the advice.

Here's what I'm getting: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=657 https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1405 I'm hoping that tranny mount is the right one.

gotchya, thanks. I'll do plenty of pricing research before ordering. I am just unsure of what new STI stuff will fit on my old 1998 outback. I will probably start with a group N transmission mount and see how it feels. Then new engine mounts and such. Thanks again for your advice. Is there a year that the STI mount changes that won't work for my older car? I know that the 6spd is different.

Thanks. Will something like this fit my 1998 legacy outback (5MT)? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/STI-Transmission-Mount-Subaru-5MT-Models-inc-2002-2011-WRX

Thanks. Will something like this fit my 1998 legacy outback? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/STI-Transmission-Mount-Subaru-5MT-Models-inc-2002-2011-WRX

Is there a difference between the engine and transmission mounts between auto and manual transmissions on these cars? What is a good upgrade if I'm going to replace them?

I just called Rallitek and found out that they no longer offer the rear heavy duty springs for 96-99 outbacks. I was ready to purchase, too. Dang. They did say that if I could round up 100 orders that they'd manufacture 100 for us. Yea, right.:-\ Which year Forester springs will fit the outback struts and how much more stiff are they than stock outback springs (1998)? I've searched around and mostly found people choosing 2 different options: Either (1) Forester springs on Outback struts or (2) an entire Forester spring and strut assembly. I'd like stiffer springs without much modification or extra cost (no king springs). I can't seem to locate the model year range of the Forester that these setups came from.

do a search for jetting.

Only if the battery is weak or ever needs more than a top off. But that's not a real big one, so I think you're ok. Today I checked my oil and priced out 5 general grabbers for the GL.

either your choke is binding and staying choked, you have vacuum leak problems somewhere, or you have the wrong jetting. Easily it's something else, but I'd check those things first.

Got the replacement mirror put on the outback. Also made progress with my gps. I have to make a power regulator for it and then throw it in for some testing. I think the 20x4 lcd will fit great in place of the dash clock on the GL.

That's good info! I know my engine's running smooth, but I also know that the after-market cheapo oil gauge only reads semi accurate at higher pressures. At idle it reads 0 and the dash gauge reads just above 0. Then at 2500 it reads 25ish and the dash gauge reads around 10psi. (all fully warm, of course) Is the after market gauge inaccurate because air has gotten into the line between the oil pump and the gauge? Maybe I'll try bleeding it again at the gauge side.

No prob, newb. Just help someone else out since you're gaining experience too. Isn't it amazing how big an effect those little parts have on the whole engine? BTW, if your oil pressure is that high when the engine is warm, you may consider running slightly lighter oil just for longevity of the seals. eh.... well, your numbers aren't that bad. It looks pretty healthy. When I start my car at 0 degrees F, the oil pressure is up around 60 and then slowly drops to rev-able levels. Dang, I need a block heater...

One thing which can effect oil pressure at the lifters is the relief spring in the cam carrier. If they're weak or stuck open they could dramatically reduce the amount and pressure of oil reaching the lifters. When I replaced mine, the old ones were about 1 or 2 mm shorter than the new ones. I could even feel the difference in spring rate. Also, my 10w30 is down around 10psi at warm idle after a recent complete reseal. It moves up around 25 at 2500rpm.

+1^^. I used a small flat head screwdriver to peel the old sealant right out. Don't use just any old o-ring. The new version is rubber coated metal - much better. Make sure that the surface which leads to the pressure relief/banjo bolt that squirts all over the cam lobes is really clean and without scratches. That is another oil pressure loss spot, but isn't designed to be sealed w/ sealant. While you're in there, it isn't a bad idea to change the relief springs, as well. I think they're about $2 from the dealer. The cam carrier oil relief springs are a different part number than the oil pump pressure relief spring.

going with the hill stopper, eh?

Dang, you beat me to it!

Yeah, I see the check engine light on. Just joking around. It's been a while since I've been that fast in a car.

GD, I think it was your suggestion which worked well for me. I lined the gasket with the proper RTV and let it dry before installing. Then put just a thin film on again at install. It seemed to reinforce the gasket allowing a good seal.

The oil pan bolts should only be an RCH more than finger tight or you'll split the cork gasket. I learned that one the hard way.

Latest update: installed new radiator fan/thermo switch (thin and cheap) switched carb jets to 130/140 mains, 180/200 air correctors. Ordered GPS parts to replace dash clock. Re sealed carb mount w/ OEM gaskets. Runs like a dream, and rubs at full lock like a dream.

I turned my crank while rebuilding my ea82. No issues. I'm not sure if it was rust in the cylinders from sitting open to air for 2 months or the new valve seals, but it smoked after engine braking for the first 200 miles. Now, nothing smoky is even detected and the oil level stays constant so I chalk it up to break in. Some say don't use any RTV on the oil pump and some say put the thinest layer possible. I tried a thin thin thin layer and didn't have any hint of particles in the oil stream. I also replaced the seal behind the oil pump pulley with a new NOK (OEM). No leaks is AWESOME! The part is listed on my thread or in the pictures in the link of the first post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&highlight=1987+build+thread Have fun and make sure your lifters are in good shape while you're in there. They make the timing run SO smooth.