kanurys

I used to get custom hydraulic hoses made at John Deer or CAT. They both have a huge inventory of unions and hose to make to custom lengths. If you bring them the hill holder they can measure the flange angle of the flare and make the hoses for you. This can be done for power steering, too. Common angles are 45 degrees and 60 degrees. You should see the big end crimping machine they use. Pretty cool stuff.

That thing looks pimp! I might do something like that in place of the stock Weber filter. How does it flow?

I like the rare headlight protectors.

Mine is more of an oil/condensate separator. It's really just a prego jar in-line before the PCV valve. I usually capture about 2 oz of oil per oil change. Most of what is in there is water which evaporates out of the oil. It's caused by the same effect which makes water condense in an air compressor. As it cools water turns back into liquid...

I heard that, too. Tom and Ray just laughed at him. I'm about to hook up a 16ft trailer to my 1998 outback to haul furniture on our short move. It should be fine with the HD springs in back. (I hope) Oh yeah, I pulled a built 60's camero up a hill with my lifted 87 GL. That was kind of pushing it.

I wheeled the 87 GL some more. Here is a cell phone vid near Silverton, CO. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdEg6vhk1_Q&feature=player_embedded Also, I know I posted a preliminary update before, but I finally got the 2" spring lift into the 1998 Legacy Outback. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124613

The alignment went very smoothly - no issues with stock ajustability. It drives really balanced on bumpy or off-camber sections. I still have to take pictures and extraneous measurements. If I ever have to take out the rear shocks I will add another half inch spacer.

I haven't measured yet, but they definitely have a reasonable amount of compression. I'll remeasure in a day or two, after the alignment and driving it a while and then post the data. Those fronts sure are springy.

1998 Legacy Outback: I got it all on there. Not much modification involved, just some general grunting and swearing. Here's the list of parts: -Pedders heavy duty springs, front and back -KYB GR-2's/Excel G's (same thing), front and back -Group N control arm bushings -fabricated 3cm spacers so the Group N bushings would fit the Outback body, 1.5" OD, .25" wall super duper hard steel pipe -new ball joints -new tie-rods and ends -new OEM rack boots -new strut mounts -new spring seat isolators (except rear uppers, I used the old ones) -fabricated HDPE 1/2" rear strut spacers The springs took 3.5 months to arrive. Via phone they promised me 2 false dates so I finally demanded they overnight them to me at their expense. Pedders USA obliged. My initial measurements were as follows, with stock components: ground to edge of FRONT wheel well: 28.5" ground to edge of REAR wheel well: 27.75" ground to rear differential: 8.5" In order as listed above: The front springs were a squeeze and are a lot more stiff than the stock springs. Even with the new KYB GR2's it's a tad bouncy. The Pedders springs are thicker and have about 1.5 more coils than the Subaru springs. Here are some pictures for comparison: They (fronts) yeilded 2.25" of lift, and have yet to settle more (I hope). EDIT: insert front height picture here After some research I had a hunch that the rear springs would not lift the vehicle as much as the fronts. I would venture to say they would be a great modification by them selves on a stock vehicle. Because of this, I fabricated 1/2" spacers from HDPE plastic. It was fairly simple with a drill and jigsaw. I saw a gain of 2.25" in back, as well, which included the spacers. I thought that was interesting. The coils are very similar; the Pedders spring retaining the same number of turns as the stock spring, but the spacing at the end of the stock one is irregular. Whereas, the pedders spring is symmetrical. It still fit like a glove. Also, I knocked out the strut mount studs and inserted 1/2" longer bolts, as seen in the pics. Out with the old, in with the new: EDIT: Insert rear height picture here Thanks for reading. Next, I'll post pics of the car and it's posture. Let me know what you think. SK

1987 GL: -took it wheeling to 12000 ft -got another radiator fan so it stays cool while going slow up steep grades 1998 Legacy Outback: -installed group N control arm bushings and fabricated 30mm spacers to fit the outback -installed new tie-rods and ends, OEM rack boots -installed new ball joints -installed a new right front axle -got all my Pedders HD lift springs, KYB struts, mounts, etc... (front and back) -ebayed 2 sheets of 1/2" HDPE to cut spacers (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/31520-diy-strut-spacer-lift-templates.html) What do you guys think? Should I put just 1/2" in back and leave the front alone or should I go through the trouble of 1/2" in front and stack two 1/2" spacers in back? I'm leaning towards just one 1/2" spacer in back and call it good. This is mostly a highway/car-camping rig. The 87 GL is the off-roader.

-Pulled a restored 60's camero back to its home with my 87 GL wagon. -Retuned the weber for summer. -got my legacy outback Pedders lift/hd springs in the mail

Corvallis and Portland, but I know Eastern Oregon quite well.

At first I was trying to decipher what you were trying to say. Then I realized two things: 1. You're from Oregon. 2. I've been in Colorado too long and forgot how oregonians think. I grew up in OR, back when the schools were actually really great. If you need a picture of the old HG's I pulled out of my EA82 I can dig them out. Just let me know.

I think the proper term for the valve with the blue port is the anti-after-burn valve. The ASVs should connect to metal pipes which run to the exhaust area on the heads, somewhere near where the exhaust manifold bolts to each head. They mount just to the rear of the heads, either on brackets that hang off the top rear of the head or some other bolt point. The charcoal canister has several lines. One from the carburetor to capture fuel vapors, one from a vacuum switch with other lines involved to actuate/open the canister which vents through another line back to the intake or manifold. There is another line from the fuel tank vent line, usually.

I thought the item in the picture with the blue hose fitting is an air injection valve actuated by manifold vacuum. It connects to somewhere near the EGR or puts air into the intake in certain situations. Most of them have a check ball that is rusted in place and they no longer work. Also, they are very expensive new. Many people remove them and suffer no negative effects. Just plug up the really big hose on the bottom. As far as the air suck valves (ASV's), there are several threads indicating that you can unbolt the metal pipe going into them and insert a $0.25 coin and reinstall. Correct me if I'm wrong but credit for that goes to GD. This is one option. I removed the entire system and plugged the heads which accomplishes the same thing but is much more clean looking and you have to make your own block off plates. I'm not sure, but it seems like a lot of this stuff was for a good emissions cause but after aging this long, now has a negative effect. If everything is working correctly and you have good ignition, timing, etc, then the only emissions thing to help you pass should be an EGR valve and a catalytic converter. The charcoal canister is another project when it comes to installing/removing, with it's own issues to deal with.

Excellent info. I will use this in the future along with the 90's Toyota 4runner fronts for the rear of the GL. Thanks. I took a half hour drive, after work, up to 9000 feet and watched the sunset. The road is rough gravel. Now my GL is muddy (AGAIN). This was really a test for my new fuse block for the radiator fans. The EA82 burns oil after long descents when you step on it. Does anybody else have this problem? The valve seals are new so it's probably the rings, even though compression is good. Oh well. EJ here we come. Man, I love where I live.

87 GL wagon: -got it muddy again -hooked up fuel return line and vent line - no more gas smell in cabin -developed another coolant leak at the thermostat, where I used a paper gasket instead of OEM on the rebuild 98 Legacy Outback: -fixed sinking rear view mirror by removing the broken plastic shim and replacing it with rubber from a bike inner-tube. -still waiting for pedders HD springs 2004 Impreza Outback Sport: -Dayco timing kit (pulleys, tensioner, belt) -acc belts -a/c belt idler -OEM water pump/thermostat/radiator flushed -OEM radiator hoses/bypass hose -resealed oil pump/o-ring -OEM cam and crank seals -OEM pcv valve -OEM oil filter, 5w30 full synth Valvoline -OEM oil pressure relief spring -adjusted valves - it runs so smooth and has noticeably more power now

I replaced the O2 sensors on my 98 Legacy Outback which upped the mpg a bit and no more CEL. Also, I took the 87 GL four wheeling and went hiking. At least put the lift to good use. It has a little hole right before the muffler and makes a great raspy sound when you step on it. I think I'll keep it that way.

Thanks for the contribution. Is that the same as the oem sensor from Subaru for the ej253?

Here's my follow-up post. I replaced the sensors with the correct part, but I purchased bosch direct fit sensors on amazon (the cheapest I could find) for about $40 each instead of over $100 each from Subaru. Here's what the info reads on the side of the OLD sensors for my 1998 Legacy Outback: Upstream sensor: Bosch 13702 http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=0+258+003+702#sclient=psy&hl=en&tbm=shop&source=hp&q=13702+bosch&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=f9f6494e40f8c42f&biw=1201&bih=702 LSH 24 BOSCH 861 16 00 0 258 003 702 12V Downstream sensor: Bosch 13445 http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=0+258+003+702#sclient=psy&hl=en&tbm=shop&source=hp&q=13445+bosch&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=f9f6494e40f8c42f&biw=1201&bih=702 LSH 24 BOSCH 861 07 20 0 258 003 445 12V CEL went away and it's getting better mpg. It was much easier to remove them with the correct O2 sensor socket, $10 at the cheapo parts store. I found the crow's foot type to work better than the deep socket type because of the tight quarters down there. (insert that's-what-she-said comment here)

10-4. Knocking on wood. On the topic at hand and to compliment this thread, would someone list which engines the adjustment applies to?

Done. That was easy! I did it with the old belt on. That way I could easily control the rotation of the cams. Thanks for your advice guys. Just for comparison, how does one go about adjusting the bucket/shim style like on my 1998 legacy outback dohc? This thread is currently my favorite.

Dremel?

I installed new o2 sensors in the legacy outback. CEL is now gone. I cleared it with the obd 2 bluetooth adapter and my Android phone. Best investment ever.

Not sure about the fuel spitting out the intake, but maybe a semi-clogged exhaust? Though, it sounds like you covered all the other bases except having a working carburetor.