kanurys

also, how do you like the exhaust routing you did with the header and output by the rear wheel?

That might keep criminals at bay, too.

right on. Pulling the dash sounds like kind of like a pain in any car. I will probably just pull the cluster and lower panels and do it that way. I'm not sure if I want to keep/rebuild the A/C or not. I'm not much of a comfort creature, nor vein. It will probably go. Any thoughts, anyone?

looks good, xbeerd. What all does it take to pull the dash? I've always kind of shied away from such projects, though I know I can do it, just because of laziness. I'd do it for an EJ.

So when it comes to ej25 SOHC's am I correct in assuming all of them have to single pig-tail of wires instead of the split pig tail like the early ej22's (90-?)?

Nice. I was going to suggest an impreza cat, too. Then I thought it would be trading mice for a hair problem. A rag soaked in ammonia repels animals pretty well. Or try one of those ultrasonic vermin repellers - usually for the garage - that you plug into a wall outlet like stated above.

Off topic, I undid the cv boot band and slid the small end of the boot up 1-1.5 cm to relive the strain on the boot on the lifted rig, then reinstalled the band. a hose clamp works, too.

Thanks for your input, guys. Originally, I was only looking at ej22's, but now my options have expanded. When a deal comes by, I'm ready to pounce on it and then do a rebuild. I have a DOHC in my legacy outback, which has convinced me that it will be the only one I ever own. From working on so many SOHC subaru engines, EA and EJ, I know I'd like a solid lifter engine. If the 2.2 comes my way I'll put torque cams in it. If a 2.5 comes my way I'll keep it stock. This vehicle is mostly a crawler/jeep trail car. I've found several spots up high in CO where I have plenty of grip at 3+ tires but the weber'ed EA82 simply runs out of grunt - especially above 10,000 ft. The weber is jetted for high altitude and runs best around 9,000-10,000. This tells me that, up high, displacement and fuel delivery counts for a lot. Hence, interest in the EJ25 On that note, I was actually surprised when I road tripped my EJ25D down to sea level in Oregon. The power increase was huge. I could actually accelerate up a hill in 5th. It feels like it's running at about 75% full power up here in Durango.

Nice! Was it a pretty standard engine swap for you or were there any unforeseen hurdles? Thanks for the pics. I'll be doing this on a wagon with 3" sub frame drop blocks, so i'll have to figure out something for the airbox. Maybe this is another reason the off-road guys use the ej22. Does yours have a lift or is it stock?

Thanks guys. I think my confusion in memory was between the ea81 and ea82. I'll look up the RX, thanks for the info. Does anybody have pics of a 2.5 SOHC in an EA82 body?

I know the DOHC won't fit in my 1987 GL wagon without notching the frame. Would a 2.5 SOHC fit without much modification?

That is a great idea. I will try this. Could you slide the end of the boot up on one with a band already on it, or did you cut the band, slide, and reinstall a new one? With ej axles, the boot seems to be more of an issue than small strain. Right now I am heading out to my garage to replace an MWE axle on my 1998 legacy outback with 2" suspension lift. It's the drivers front inner boot. It looks like someone took a weed whacker to it. I believe it has 10100 miles on the axle. It was fine before the lift, which was installed about 3000 miles ago.

I think that front passenger inner boot is a common failure because it is right next to a HOT catalytic converter. When you do a suspension lift the overall tension of the inner boots are increased.

Skid plate installed on the 87 GL (with 4" SJR lift and 27 A/T's), and tested. We did the Silverton to Ouray portion of the Alpine Loop in CO. This is highly recommended for you axle-breakers. I must say, I got a lot of looks from Texans in fancy rental rubicons. Maybe I should reverse those capitals... They sure don't understand 4x4 etiquette. Oh, I also installed a 2nd radiator fan. That thing is key to keeping a 190F-210F temp range with subaru thermostat. I also figured out that my great running ea82 webber setup is not so great when extremely tipped towards the passenger side. I guess it becomes flooded or something.

Also, I built a lift kit with 1" HDPE I bought off ebay for $40 and a jigsaw. Same purpose as in your link.

My 1998 outback is doing great with a 2" strut/spring lift after about 3000 miles. I guess that means you could just throw in the outback spacers, outback struts and a 1" strut lift with no problems at all. I installed a 2" strut spacer lift on a 1998 forester and it blew the right front inner cv boot constantly, for what it's worth...? OOPS, DOUBLE POST. PLEASE DELETE

My 1998 outback is doing great with a 2" strut/spring lift after about 3000 miles. I guess that means you could just throw in the outback spacers, outback struts and a 1" strut lift with no problems at all. I installed a 2" strut spacer lift on a 1998 forester and it blew the right front inner cv boot constantly, for what it's worth...?

Good call. I've seen that on some raspy sounding hondas. I'm going for a nice full light fill.

Thanks guys. With turn signals, I'm not as concerned with saving power, but the higher power using brake lights and marker lights would be a good idea. I'll look into a flasher for leds anyways.

right on. What about wiring? Are resistors built into these bulbs or do I need to add one in series with each bulb? And, should I get red leds to put in my red lens tail lamps or white leds?

Those sites are good links. I think I'd be in the hole about $60-80 for just brake lights. What color would you guys go with? Cool white or warm white? other?

you could build a pwm circuit to dim them. Just search around online. Thanks for the responses. I'd like to use them for the tail/brake corner lights and the trunk mounted brake light in my 87 GL. I have a voltage meter in the dash and with my headlights on, radiator fan and cabin fan running the voltage drops below 12v when I step on the brake. I'll also be doing the maxima alternator mod, but LED conversions are also really cool . I guess my question really is how bright are specific bulb conversions and will they be adequate to be safe even in sunlight? I've seen really bright LED lights on fancy busses and bmw's, etc... so I'm sure they're out there. What is available to us that would just insert where the bulb used to be?

Has anyone replaced their brake lights with LED lights like ones on ebay? Are they as bright as the conventional light bulbs? What has your experience been?

Just got back from a 3000 mile trip. The new suspension drove great. I came back with an extra 400 lbs of stuff in the back and the car still handled well and had very little rear sag. The front springs did settle down a tiny bit like I hoped. I am very pleased with the improvement in handling and load capacity. When I weighed it at a truck stop with my girlfriend, me, 3/4 tank of gas and all the stuff in the back it was exactly 4000 lbs (about 1000 lbs over curb weight). Its posture still looked like an empty, totally stock outback. Well, maybe a little higher, but it didn't sag to bad. Pedders should have engineered the rear springs to sit the car .5" to 1" higher.

The 1998 Legacy Outback got new pedders hd lift springs and 1/2" hdpe rear spacers. This made 2" at each corner. Also kyb gr2's and all new related components. It rides like it SHOULD have from the factory. Also I had a cheapo new outer tie rod end develop 1/16th inch of play within the first 2000 miles. Warrantied that thing and have a moog in the mail. The group N control arm bushings feel solid with the 30mm spacers to make them fit the outback. With my petite girlfriend, me, 3/4 tank of gas, a few hundred pounds of audio gear and trip stuff weighed in at exactly 4000 lbs at a truck weigh station. It still handled better than stock and empty.