kanurys

Its snowy out and my blower fan stopped working. Voltage was good at the harness so I rebuilt the motor and we have heat again. Also found a phase 2 ej22 impeza sport as an engine donor.

Thanks. I've been busy with school and not doing much car related work. I've added another radiator fan and a front skid plate since my last post update. The heater fan seems to have a mind of its own and might need replacing. The relay, wiring, switch, etc.. are more or less working fine.

Thanks for the link to the service manual. I used a thermo switch available on rockauto. The stock setup was a two-spade switch. There is also a single-pin style which you have to ground the housing to get it to work. If you're rewiring the fan circuit I'd recommend the two spade type as it is easier to connect to.

I want

Put a set of Hella 500 lights in place of the fog lights. They fit the hole perfectly and are 55 watts just like the stock lights so the original circuit can power them directly. About $75 a set. As for springs, I'd keep the stock ride height as to no mess with suspension geometry but get a set of HD King springs in stock height, not the lift springs. If you go with a lift spring you'll be working out many other bugs that accompany it...

Thanks. I'm not afraid of any complex math. I just need to have a better understanding of the dynamics of the McPherson design. I think caster can be slightly adjusted by sliding the transverse link bushing sideways. Also, I have experience doing one other 4" lift on my 1987 gl wagon. I'm just not sure what else I need to consider on this newer model. Anyways, thanks so much for your interest and help.

Aside from one front axle getting trashed, the 2" lift has held up well. Contrary to my earlier feelings, I really like the HD front springs. They enable me to dive into pretty big dips at higher speeds than with stock springs and they just eat it up and feel soft if you hit a bump really hard. Since the outer edges of the front tires are wearing much more quickly than the rest of the tread face, I'm looking into some options. Fairtax is in the right ballpark on diagnosing the wear problem as a caster issue. This brings me to another subject on the topic of lifting. I'd like to design and build a lift to bring the car to a complete 4" over stock with 1" axle stress. An effect of this would mean the control arm would be a little more horizontal and decrease the extreme caster... Or do I need to move the wheel forwards/strut mount backwards to get my caster closer to stock from where it is now? Remember, the springs already give me 2" of lift. Here are the pieces I think I'd need: 2" camber-corrected strut towers, front and back 3" engine cross-member blocks 3" transmission cross-member/transverse-link(control arm) blocks 3" rear diff cross-member blocks ?" steering extension other misc parts (coolant hoses, brake hoses, etc...) Any other things come to mind for the project? New tires are in order, of course. Here are a few issues I foresee: 1) My camber correction on the strut towers must be different than if I were lifting a stock strut/spring setup. This is due to the dimensions of the triangle formed by the <body/control arm/strut> being changed. The only thing that stays the same is the control arm, so I'll try to keep the angle at the ball joint close to stock so alignment is possible and CASTER can be close to stock. Is this a reasonable assumption? Does anyone have some insight on how to calculate the proper angle for the spacer offset? Would someone please give me a measurement on the front and rear stock shock length from the center of where the ball joint passes through the control arm to the bottom surface of the strut mount (I'm a brewer and if you come to Durango, CO I'll make sure all of your beer needs are satiated)? Also, any relevant theory on the subject of suspension correction would be appreciated. 2) not sure Thanks for all your help, everyone.

No worries, man. I run a little lean at 6500 ft with a 125 primary, if that helps.130 was too rich up here when I feathered the throttle.

Um, I don't think your math is right. Cross-sectional area of the bore is (pi)r^2 and since pi's cancel when you get it all written out: Try the square root of (70^2 + 81^2) = 107, so an equivalent single jet of about 214 wide open. 155 jets on both would be the square root of [(2)(77.5^2)] = 110 so an equivalent single wot jet of 220. That is all with rounding to sig-figs, of course. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't want to be supplying inaccurate information on this forum. By the way, I totally respect the contributions Loyale 2.7 Turbo has made to this forum. I'm just keepin' it real.

I have 125 primary and 130 secondary (for when I FLOOR it) on the ea82. I upped the air correctors a size or so, as well. I don't really drive this vehicle below 6500 feet. Only higher. When I get above 9000 ft I close the idle mixture screw 1/4 turn and it runs perfectly at each altitude. This means it's gutless at 6500 and gutless at 10000 ft, but she runs perfectly smooth. I got the restriction dialed in on the kegerator, too.

Thanks for clarifying. That's kind of what I was trying to get at in a more convoluted way of speaking. I didn't know that COP system was on the turbos, though.

Also, since each of 2 coils runs 2 cylinders, one spark per coil is wasted each crank rotation. Because of the 2 coil system it can fire every crank rotation and be triggered off of the crank. These engines might need 4 coils or another method to trigger the spark from the cam sensor. (multiply by 2?)

Yeah, that's kind of the conclusion I came to. I think a 1" would help a lot. Then I would have to extend steering, too. Fairfax, that sounds like the culprit. It's not extreme, but will get worse. I can sort of feel the wheels flop over at or near full lock and loose their return-to-center. Obviously the shop didn't pay much attention to that. I'll ask them for the print out from their fancy computerized alignment system. How the heck do you even adjust caster on these cars?

We usually get a fist snow around halloween or by thanksgiving. I'm still looking for a donor and the EA82 just keeps on running. Gutless supreme! I'll let you guys know when I come across something.

Its been about 4000 miles and I've shredded a front inner axle boot. It was about 10000 miles old and MWE brand. I replaced it with a NEW NAPA axle and slid the boot up the shaft about 1 cm to relive tension. The front tires are visibly warn on the outer edges more than the inner edges. The alignment shop told me it came out great, but obviously is wearing unevenly. Should I get lower camber bolts for the front to increase adjustability? Ride is still great but not too harsh. Nice and stiff. I'd say 7/10 on handling and 6/10 on reliability. Some days I trust the 87 with 4" lift a bit more.

Any tips on block heaters for this winter? I've looked at the ebay oil plug type and wondered what you guys think. Here, in Durango, it gets in the single digits regularly and drops below zero a few times during the winter. (summers are perfect, though ) My vehicles: 2004 Impreza Sport - mostly stock 1998 Legacy Outback - 2" lift 1987 GL Wagon (still EA82) - 4" lift / 27's All are running full synthetic oil.

Well, if you think about it, when you drop the cross member 3" the control arm and the steering rack are dropped 3" together, so the steering geometry is preserved. If you push the suspension down 4" (1" more than the cross member) you still preserve steering geometry because it changes the tie-rod and control arm from the same point. Maybe it's not "factory" ideal, but it sure lets me out jeep some jeeps in CO. Oh, and it's still stable at 60 mph on the highway.

I really like my Pedders HD lift springs. They took a long time (4 months) to get here, but are worth it. They're $100 less than the King springs. I'd run Kings if I could afford it. The rears needed a 1/2 inch spacer I made with HDPE off of ebay. Stock camber adjustment is adequate for an alignment. The car is up 2" all around and corners better than before. You can put 200lbs of cargo in back and it sits nicely and handles great.

I've done several O2 sensors. In my experience the crow's foot type O2 sensor tool ($10ish) is what you need for the low clearances on a soob. The socket type is just too long. Soak it (cold) the night before you try to remove it. Good luck.

Thanks for the input, guys. This helps me shape my view for what to look for in the hunt for a new power plant. I agree with everyone about the cost of a rebuild and getting value out of your rebuild. I'll keep looking since this one I previously spoke of is kind of an enigma, though cheap, and near the end of it's life. I put a post up a while back about the EJ25 (all of them) fitting in the EA82 frame, so that is a great option, now, to my knowledge. There are TONS of subarus in CO, and therefore quite a few salvaged vehicles. Actually it kind of makes the NW look like a Cadillac state. I grew up in the Willamette valley, so I know how prevalent the scoob is there. I'm willing to put $400 ish into a rebuild on an engine so I would like to choose one that is worth my time. A phase II SOHC would be perfect... now I have to wait for one to come by. There are so many EA vehicles around Durango that I should have no problem selling my rebuilt and proven EA82 for what I have into it. Heck, one just went on westslope CL that looks like it was never ever cleaned in its lifespan for $200.

I'm farmiliar with how engines wear and age. I'm looking at rebuilding a 2.2 and would like the board's experience and advice on what parts I should replace. Would it be prudent to consider a cheap EJ22 with near 300,000 miles? Should I plan on splitting the block and installing new rings, etc., ontop of a head rebuild? The engine I am considering is in a 1992 Legacy and currently running. Maybe a compression test would be in order. If applicable I'd buy the whole car and strip the components I need for my 87 GL (engine, ecu/harness , 5-lug) Thanks

Oh, right. I forgot you're a rust belt resident. I was talking about big rocks, etc...

And you'd definitely want to protect that investment with a skid plate...

Wow, thanks for all the info. Excellent work. I'll definitely do an eBay header like that.

Keep us posted. I would like to do something similar and am learning from your experience . Would you describe the flow path from the engine to the end and what parts from what vehicles you pieced together? I'm curious how things bolted up and sounded vs. stock parts.