kanurys

I got them on rockauto.com. They come two in a box. It takes two (aka 1 box) per side. I also added washers on the forward side as in the pictures. Importantly: these bushings, as well as other raybestos bushings I've ordered from them, are a Subaru branded product. They had the right Subaru number and logo, etc... I also ordered raybestos steering rack bushing and there were Subaru parts in Subaru numbered bags in raybestos boxes.

You guys really need to get out. The development of this brat has been covered in detail. Search on that. It goes without saying that we all love the work that has been done. Oh yeah, I washed the mud off of the GL and fixed the sinking mirror on my outback.

A few questions: What jets are you running? Main1: Main2: Air1: Air2: Idle1: Idle2: At what altitude are you driving? Is your timing advance hooked up correctly and verified working? Also, just to be sure, check the float level adjustment according to the weber specs. Does anyone have those handy? I have no idea where my print out is... I bet you're running a little lean on one of the jets, but clear answers to A1's questions will narrow that down.

Yeah, someone's been doing e-brake turns... Mine glazed when I had to emergency tow my vehicle about a mile with a tow strap when my timing seals failed a few years ago. It grabs, but not reliably on a steep hill. Now its time for a rear break job and I'll be in there anyways so I might as well replace the shoes. Those little suckers are relatively expensive! Do you guys re-use the hardware or get new springs, clips, etc...?

The car has been running well since the last post. I replaced my radius rod bushings and went for a test drive. I added 1/4" of washers on the front side of the body mount. My alignment was perfect after the install and test drive. There is also a noticeable improvement in sudden impacts. There is less clunk and more of the force is transfered to the spings/shocks. Here are some pictures and vids: This compressed down to a tight little donut when complete.

Finally, some good pictures of a parking break setup on a rear disk break car. I've been searching for this stuff and not had much luck. Thanks!

I replaced my radius rod bushings and went for a test drive. I added 1/4" of washers on the front side of the body mount. My alignment was perfect after the install and test drive.

That's what I was thinking, too. I was just hoping some one on here knew what the feature was incase it pertained to some sort of upgrade I and others could easily accomplish with the wiring already installed. Oh and I'm always curious about terminated plugs just laying around.

Hmmm... good ideas, but all of my chassis electrical works great. The car used to have a Hitachi until I webered it, so no computer. This one really has me stumped.

Not sure about that. It was tucked behind the pillar trim piece next to the seatbelt reel. I'd think seat power would run under the seat, not back there where it's near a flex point. None the less, this is a stock interior and the seats are the standard manual adjust type. Any other ideas?

Hey folks, I was tracing my gas lines to check for rust and leaks when I found this plug on the driver's side of my 87 GL. Anyone know what this is for?

yeah, use an OEM thermostat. Nothing less. It's the one on the left, part number behind...

My Subaru system doesn't have the yellow on the battery side. Can you get pictures of the alarm unit under the dash to show us? Maybe remove it or pull it out? I think that would help us figure out what clicker you need and how to program it.

The info you need to get the correct fob and program it is on this page: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm

not sure of the the part number, but that is where my 1998 outback alarm speaker is located. The Subaru-Code alarm unit was ziptied up under the dash almost touching the driver side kickpannel.

Sorry to hear they're not in good shape. Do some searching. You can close those cracks with a ball-peen hammer/round punch. I did with mine and they're working great.

cool, will do.

When I do a general search via google for the specific bushing, it always comes up with stuff for a brat or other trim, but not my 87 GL. Is there some sort of difference in the design?

Right on, thanks Miles. I ordered a bunch of raybestos bushings for my steering rack and radius rods from rockauto. The boxes said raybestos on them but it was a subaru branded part inside with subaru numbers... FYI.

Hi guys, I want to replace the bushings on my control arms on my 1987 GL wagon. I have the ones for the radius rods ready to go, but I can't really see the pressed in bushings to verify what I need. Can someone post a link or a Subaru part number for these? Thanks

Have you tried this? How much did it help? I was told this wasn't worth the modification on another thread.

That's great that you got a big axle. I had just the opposite experience. My oem axle was the thick one and the empi from autozone was the smaller one with the butted ends. I've read a lot on axles and have seen people get a random assortment of shaft/cup setups on remans. I've also used EWI's (the blue ones) with good results.

right on! thanks.

This is a great thread, guys. Thanks. I'm about to do a timing job and valve cover/spark plug hole re-seal on a 2004 impreza outback sport. One valve is a little loud and I think it's time to do the valve adjustment. I'm planning on doing it with the timing belt off, engine in car at TDC. Someone stop me if this isn't a good idea. I'll check for piston/valve clearance before fully rotating any cams individually.

sorry, man. The group buy closed last October. I think there has even been another since then. Scott is continuously selling them on his website http://www.sjrlift.com and makes a great product. You probably already know that since you're looking to purchase.