kanurys

My 87 gl has factory cruise. Its great on the flats and down hill. It is worthless on any sort of incline. I can't wait till I finish my EJ swap to see how it works. I'll snap some pics for you tomorrow.

Despiriation is a stinky cologne.

Cool, thanks! I am pretty good at researching diagrams but could not find where this terminated for the life of me. I'll hook it up to the alternator side of the old charge light on the GL. I'm going to integrate the impreza Main Fuse Box and place it behind the battery like JacksonRally did on his. Then use the impreza headlight relays for my driving lights and accessories.

Guys, I have an alternator question. On the 1999 alt there is a HEAVY gauge white pair of wires (same node) which are obviously the main V+ output. There are also two wires: Yellow goes to the Main Fuse Box, I'm guessing as a reference and to power the inner coils of the alternator and ties into the battery, according to the diagram. The other one is Black w/ White strip which leads back to the dash. What does this one do?

I just did (this weekend) a bit of research with wiring colors and descriptions on the 1999 harness. It may be of help to you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1071727#post1071727

Here is a link to the current spreadsheet. The far right column is what I need to hook up to the EA82. Feel free to suggest any changes. When this is finalized I'll package the spreadsheet with the wiring diagrams. 1999 EJ22 to EA82 Spreadsheet Also, I'm selling the other parts from the shell over in the classifieds.

Nice. Get Mad Max goggles and mount them with little velcro straps next to the seats.

When taken care of

I think I'll say it anyway: Do some more research on the forum. The wires to use in the ea82 are well talked about. Get the fsm wiring diagrams for the 2002 car and make a list of what you need to save and what you need to connect to the loyale and where. Then goto town.

So far so good. The tape and loom is off of the harness. I started a spreadsheet of pins and wire colors to painlessly strip this thing down to what I need. I'll make it available once its compete. The doccument will also include the ea82 wires to interface with, hopefully simplifying the installation.

Has anyone put an EJ fuel tank into an EA82 car? would this be an option?

I thought I'd start a new thread for my engine swap to post progress in as well as ask questions. I picked up a 1999 Impreza Sport, manual transmission, and have pulled the engine out along with the entire bulkhead wiring harness, computer and exhaust. I chose the 1999 EJ22 for it's slight power increase over previous year, OBDII and overall reliability. Before I start stripping the harness down to the essentials I need for the merger, I would like to address a few things. My main concerns are as follows. The 1999 system has a fuel temperature sensor in the tank. Do I need this for the engine to run properly or can this pin on the ECM be left floating or tricked with a simple resistor? Advantages of knowing fuel temp in the tank? The manual transmission version uses a speed sensor signal to the gauge cluster and to the ECM. It appears to be driven from the same place in the transmission as the speedometer cable in the 1987. How do I incorporate this sensor into the 1987 D/R transmission? The speedo gauge is not as important, as I use GPS for a speedo with the bigger tires, but it would be nice to get this to work so I can use the stock cruise control. My thoughts were to drive the cable with a servo and simple PWM circuit driven form the speed sensor signal. This isn't as important as getting the engine running properly in the 1987, though, so lets focus on getting the speed signal to the ECM.

Downloading, thanks a bunch.

I've looked high and low for this FSM. I've even looked behind the cookie jar. Currently, I'm in the process of stripping down the wiring harness for a swap and can't find the proper pin-out and related documentation. I only find fsm's for everything else. Can someone please help? Once I have this all together and I finish my project, I'll make a how-to for the 1999 year EJ swap, with pictures, to augment the site. To be clear: I need the ECU pin-out and related wire colors. Also I need the gauge cluster/wire colors and other power related stuff - everything you'd need to make the swap into a 1987 GL carbureted. Thanks.

Nice work. I just picked up a 1999 Impreza and have the dash off to pull the wiring harness. These pictures make so much more sense after seeing all the hvac stuff in the 99. I think I'll keep my 1987 hvac and just deal with the engine swap. Its a phase II ej22.

So, how did the motor problem get solved? I hope you got it sorted.

Maybe a brass barb fitting and some new fuel hose. There are quite a few threads dedicated to this conversion. Search around a bit.

Yep I believe you can still get the weber adapter kit and/or a rebuild kit from redline, who distributes them. I'd look for a used carb to rebuild and get a new adapter plate for your model engine. Save your base plate from the old carb and get two Subaru brand carb mounting gaskets from the dealer. The paper gaskets which come with the adapter kit are junk but if you coat them with a *small* amount of silicone they'll be fine. Let us know what you decide to do...

Oh yeah, I'll reseal that oil separator. I think a 1999 should already be metal from the factory. I've gone both ways with the rear main seal. This engine has 180,000 miles on it so I might just do it. It looks like it was well taken care of. Oil pan gasket is not leaking, just minor dampness around the valve covers, totally dry timing area, etc... There is a mobile-1 oil filter on it (I only use subaru) and a stock air filter, so it looks like the P.O. was fairly diligent. The clutch/flywheel has a few signs of heat-scoring but Its not getting reused so who cares. I'm actually really interested to pull the clutch off of the EA82 and see what it looks like. I've been the only driver on that clutch (a first for me), though there are many uncommon factors (large diameter tires, only about 3000 miles on it, hard 4x4 driving, etc...). Any tips on getting the entire wiring harness out of the donor car to accompany the engine? I'll just go slow and have patience getting it removed.

Got it out. Once those bottom bolts were off, it came out like cake. The engine looks good. Its currently on a stand. I think I'll just do the basic reseal and oil pan with all subaru gaskets and seals. I should have enough saved up by that time to get an adapter plate from SJR. I plan to mill/grind the holes on the EA82 flywheel myself, using the EJ flywheel as a template. Thanks for your help, everyone.

Yuck. That carb is over complicated for its purpose. I agree with subaruglkid. Understand how it works before unplugging all those vacuum hoses. If you're really feeling like an upgrade, find a weber or empi knock-off of a weber DGEV and learn about it. Those are much more simple to work on and efficient. You can probably pick up a used one for $100 and an adapter plate for $40. As for the rebuild, lots of carb cleaner and replace all the vac hoses with new hose. There are usually rebuild kits available for this carburator and I'd reccomend that. Get a nice organized space where you can lay out each little part and label it or something. It will take a little time, but is worth the rebuild.

Thanks guys. I'm an old school subie guy and haven't separated anything japanese with more than 4 bolts, before. I'm sure it's because I missed two on the bottom. Yes to pitch stopper undone, yes to mount studs clearing and lots of rocking. Miles, if I am just pulling the engine and selling the transmission later in the partout do I need to mess with the clutch at this point (yes, it's hydraulic)? This is my donor car for a phase II EJ22 swap into my 1987 GL. It was rolled and the body is pretty much trashed, but the guts are great.

Nice recovery. My valves were starting to melt just after I bought the car. When I rebuilt my ea82 I capped off the ASV ports on the heads. I think it even runs better. I kept the important stuff (EGR, PCV system, Cat) both for engine health and environmental friendliness.

I just rebuilt my blower motor two days ago. It worked intermittently when I hit a big bump and eventually stopped working. The carbon brushes were stuck in their guides and weren't making contact with the rotor. It appears that the brush springs rusted and got stuck. I cleaned up the internals and lightly sanded the rotor surface that the carbon brushes contact with fine grit sandpaper. Then blew everything out with compressed air. The bushings are meant to be dry - no grease. It works like its brand new and cost me nothing. Also make sure you have reasonable voltage at the wiring harness that plugs into the motor. This is how I isolated the problem to the motor and not bad wiring. Rebuilding the motor is very easy. If you have any questions let me know. Also, proceed very carefully so you can put it back together just like it came apart. Do it on some newspaper and wear cruddy clothes because that carbon dust gets on everything.

I'm posting this partly to blow off some steam and partly for your advice. I've pulled Subaru engines and transmissions before, but none of them were this finicky. Everything up to this point has gone smoothly. I'm trying to separate the engine from the transmission and it won't budge past about 3mm. It's suspended with the engine mount studs just out of the holes and I've tried wiggling, prying, different combinations of the lift and a jack underneath. There are 6 bolts on the bell housing for this year, right? Any advice?