kanurys

Can I come? Moab is 2 hours away and I should have the EJ22 smoothed out by then...

Things accomplished so far: -ECU in GL in stock EJ location under carpet -wiring harness installed and in loom -brackets made to locate EJ main fuse block behind battery -spreadsheet updated -engine resealed, tuned up, valves adjusted -sanded and re-sprayed the battery tray corner All my connections are soldered and shrink tubed. I ran 4 extra control wires through the fender to actuate extra relays for future expansion.

I power washed my engine bay and repainted the battery corner.

I'll be running that one as well as the aftermarket gauge. I'll probably hook the aftermarket one up in an adapter sleeve for the radiator hoses. Not many people have reported anything on the Numchux pull down resistor. I was thinking of putting a 1000 ohm potentiometer in there so I can calibrate it.

I got a sandwich like Chris's because I already have aftermarket gauges. Chris, what did you do for your temp gauge, again?

Cool, thanks. I think I'll pull the cluster anyways and make my own interface near the round connectors. The other location will be helpful. I'll update the comments on my spreadsheet with these...

That's about what I have planned on doing. We'll see about the fuel pump issue. Thanks for the picture.

Thanks, Tosh. I don't really want to bend hard lines. Maybe I can run a really long rubber hose for the main hose. Perhaps the EA82 SPFI fuel pump is not quite adequate flow volume, not just the line. Head pressure at the end of a long run is much lower than you might expect. We could overcome this with an over-pressure rated aftermarket pump. Just put a gauge at the pump end and the engine end of the EA line and run the stock pump. That should give you a good idea as to the loss at a given flow rate. (have someone rev it up while looking at the gauges). If you don't come back with anything on that soon, I'll probably run a larger hose, but just get the engine running before I tackle that problem. Right now, I'm trying to figure out which pin on the back of the cluster is the speed sensor and which is the tach signal. I think the speed is the 4th pin on the passenger side round connector counting counter clockwise. As for the tach signal, I've read a ton of threads on converting it to a usable one, but nobody has 100 % success. No one has put a scope on it to see what it looks like, either. We'd need to compare it to an EA82 signal. Then the correction should be obvious.

Things are moving along. I'm ready to do the whole swap. I think I'm going to cut the old intake hole in the inner fender larger to fit the 1999 intake air box. Has anyone had a bad time doing this?

You did pretty well getting it out. Mine was reallllllllllly stuck zzz. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925&highlight=axle I just did some mods on my EJ adapter plate and got the clutch and flywheel on.

The electric fan on the radiator is the main fan that is activated by the temp switch in the radiator. The mechanical fan is on most ea82's equipped with A/C. That is the fan to delete. Just get some washers and use the existing nuts to hold the water pump pulley on. I actually put another slim ebay electric fan in place of the mechanical one. It's great when I'm crawling and need some extra cooling (for the engine, that is )

Good job on the build. I don't mean to be nagative in previous posts. If it work, it works. You seem to have good fab skills and I'm following your thread for that reason. I'm no keyboard builder, either. I might be very concise and plan differently than just jumping in and figuring it out, but I have a lot of respect for people who can jump right in and cut some sheet metal. I would never give advice on something I didn't have experience in. Oh, and I finish ALL of my endeavors. That's where persistence and "engineering" come in very handy. Good luck on the project. I'll be watching intently.

They're EJ mounts. Look them up. Group N is a subaru product.

Every time I see an email notification for this post, I get excited. Lets see the progress.......

^^far from jargon. I think it's cool that you designed your own control arms with nice welds. I think it's very lame that you reject and overlook the input from other board members. My experience has been that if there is any question about the feasibility of a proposition, that you should probably pay attention to that and thank the member for their concern. Even if you don't follow their advice (which this thread is fraught with) you can take the high road. That's what this board is all about. Practical applied input. Maybe you could ask the objecting members what they would do in place of the lateral-links. You know - incase the thing does fail. You'd have a backup plan. On another note, it does sit very nicely as you have designed it. We'll see how it holds up under dynamic loading.

OEM plugs, wires, oil filter Mobil 1 5w30 refreshed the k&n.

Start your own thread for this. This thread is not for asking direct questions. Also, there is a factory diagram available on GOOGLE.

Sound thinking. I thought the same thing about the oil pickup. I'll look for any interference with the o2 sensor. That makes sense.

Thanks guys, we'll check it out.

I installed a knock sensor, maf, crank position sensor and temp sensor in my buddy's legacy today in an effort to make the CEL go away. Only one code to address, now. I also stopped by my buddy's machine shop to see how the flywheel milling is going for the EJ swap into my 1987 GL. Still sitting on the rotary table...zzz

My buddy's girlfriend drove their 1998 legacy outback with 4eat over a really big rock and did some damage to the oil pan, exhaust and transmission pan. The transmission temp warning light flashes and the check engine light is on. There are no ECU codes stored and it has good oil pressure. Engine sounds pretty good. I pulled code 76 from the TCU, which I can't find a reference for. Any ideas?

Start another thread!!!!! I'm interested in this too. Also, what's next for the GL?

Way to recycle.