kanurys

I've done quite a bit of research on egr and pcv setups. The benefits of setting them up properly outweigh omitting them. The PCV system allows blow-by gasses and unburnt gasoline to be re-consumed by the engine. Without the gentle vacuume imposed by the pcv valve and system, these things will degrade oil very quickly and result in poor lubrication of the cylinder wall and other components. When the engine produces a specific range of vacuum, the pcv valve opens and allows the evaporated blow-by products and water vapor to be re-burnt and passed out of the engine instead of creating a sespool in the crank-case. The EGR also opens at certain defined rpms/vacuum scenarios and introduces unconsumeable gases to the combustion process. This has the effect of reducing pinging, decreasing the chance of burnt valves (and ea82's ping like a bastard with timing set correctly) as well as decreasing combustion temperatures, therefore reducing carbon monoxide emissions and other nasty outputs. When hooked up to the weber correctly (yes there is a port specifically to actuate egr valve on the weber), both of these things will actually make the engine run better and have longer life, as well as be better for the environment. Your engine might run fine as set up, but doing it right has many benefits. This stuff is not on there just because of California emissions laws, it actually helps the little guy run better.

Fix your pcv system and get the egr hooked up. Your engine will thank you.

Mileage depends on you. That weber can flow more than your Hitachi or finesse more mpg out of the engine, depending on how you drive it. The jetting I set up worked well for finessing the primary for normal diving but blew the doors off when you floored it.

Take the old linkage off of your hitachi and bolt on in place of the one on the weber. Works much more smoothly and with more correct pull vs. rotation of the throttle. Sounds like you're starting to enjoy the new carb. I don't think you have to change your jets much, but keep experimenting! I'd start to get the idle mixture screw and idle speed screw dialed in and see how it performs. The idle jets only help in transitions: between idle to slightly open throttle and, between primary and secondary opening up. If you change a jet and it runs worse after a full drive, put it back drive it, change it the other direction and drive it. One at a time. Do some research on oil pressure in the forum search. I'd get an aftermarket oil/temp/volt gauge from online or a parts store to get a better reading of the oil pressure. To diagnose this you'll have to give us a better description of what's going on at several specific rpm readings. It's probably ok, but resealing the oil pump might be your ticket.

http://farmington.craigslist.org/cto/2924459203.html

When doing this stuff, do one thing at a time so you know how it effects the performance. Don't change a whole bunch of jets at once. It will take a lot of time and getting used to each setting, but you'll eventually get a good combo figured out. Generally, you want to the secondary to flow the same or a little more fuel than the primary because it opens when the throttle is most of the way open. I'd keep the 130 primary, then put a bigger jet in the secondary. I it crashes more easily put a smaller jet in the secondary. I gave you my jetting because then you could have a baseline that worked at your altitude and then mess with other stuff like making sure your distributor advance works, etc...

Seach about the air suck valves. Exhaust gas will pass through them when they fail, being 20+ years old, and melt the plastic resonators. If you like that sound, then do it right with proper leaky exhaust pipes:D Most of the problems you've brought up have be turned over and . Just search around the forum.

A weber-ed EA82 runs a little better with more distributor advance than the with the hitachi. Part of the crashing at wide open throttle problem might be that. Make sure the vacuum line from the distributor advance is plugged into the proper port on the weber before timing. Sounds like reasonable jetting. Try swapping around the air correctors.

ASV = air suck valve. Most of us eliminate them. It's the thing making a loud exhaust noise that you put your hand over in the video. Search around the forum. It might be lean, too. Crashing can be either. Sometimes the fuel pump is worn out and not delivering enough fuel. Make sure everything is to spec, including float clearance. I'm running: primary main 130 secondary main 140 primary air corrector 190 secondary air corrector 210 This jetting ran fine at 5000-10000 feet. Not sure which idle jets, but I turned my idle mixture screw 2.5 turns out from closed. I set the idle at 900 rpm when warm. Everything ran great. The other thing it might be is poor vacuum advance. Make sure you have it hooked up to the carb properly (not to the egr port) and that the car is fully warmed up or it won't advance the distributor. The distributor timing advance needs to be pushed forward to more like 14+ degrees to work smoothly with the weber. edit: low oil pressure is normal for these engines.

Oh god. Block of those ASV's. Those things are horrible. I made sheet metal plates for the ports on the heads right by the exhaust manifold. Lots of people also do the quarter trick. Just search for it. Also, block off the big port on the EGR valve body. I can't remember what the wire is but if you have the choke wired up and the coolant temp sensor wired up, then you probably don't need it. It sounds like it might be running a little rich and the black soot on the tail pipe would be a sign of that. Pull a spark plug and if it's black then you need to lean it out some more. Clean the plug before you put it back in so you know what it's doing next time you pull it. One more thing. Hook that PCV system up right. What you have there will relive pressure in the crank case, but won't draw air across it or reburn the blow-by gasses. Check my previous post... I'll go to the garage and look at the jetting on my old carb and post back here in a sec.

Save the plastic T fittings from the old pcv setup. You'll need those to correctly hook up the pcv stuff. Check out my build post for a weber on my ea82 engine. It outlines both pcv, egr and thermo-vac switch connections to the carb. I'd ditch the anti-after-burn valve and charcoal canister, as well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817&highlight=1987+sesh%27s Also, I live at 6512 ft and had to get the high altitude jetting kit. I think I bought it for about $40. It's nice to have the kit to play around with and not be stuck with one alternative jetting option.

Now that's what I'm talking about. Oregon is one of the only states to not increase their speed limit on highways and freeways and resist oil company lobbying, as per the fed. It results in MUCH less fuel consumption (some people don't like that) and fewer fatalities. My mpg in the outback drops about 5 mpg between 65 and 75 mph. My fatalities have stayed a steady rate. Anyways, out here in CO at 7000 feet I get 1987 GL, 4" lift, 27's, 140000 mi: about 28/24 mpg (we'll see what it gets after the EJ swap) 1998 Legacy Outback, 2" lift, 130000 mi: 27/23 mpg (and decreasing yearly) 2004 Impreza Outback Sport, 80000 mi: 34/29 mpg (lead-foot)

Aren't GR-2's a gas pressurized shock?

I have one I would ship to you if you pay shipping. It's just taking up space... but I'd junkyard one. Its probably cheaper than shipping.

Well that settles that. Thanks Gary.

Thanks. If you ever make it down to Durango, give me a heads-up and I'll show you my soobs or we can go wheeling or something.

Thanks GD. Yeah they do go though the covers. I replaced all the seals, etc, when I did the valve adjustment. I know my 98 is bucket/shim. When that dies, instead of fixing the heads I might use the block and build a dual port frankenmotor for it. Will the 2.2 dual port heads fit the dohc intake manifold and exhaust? Just want to know what to look for when the time comes. On topic: It looks like the Phase II 2.2 on my engine stand has a plastic oil separator cover.

There were two EJ22's available in 1999 Imprezas. I think it was a change - mid year. What do you guys know about the differences. I have one that has a plastic oil separator plate but I thought they changed that in phase II engines. What is this one? I did a valve adjustment on it and basic tuneup. It's roller rocker and very similar intake setup to my 1998 legacy outback 2.5 hydro lifter engine, if that any clue.

Just yank them off of a junkyard car. Last time I tried to get one of those bolts form the dealer, the part number listed in their catalog is wrong and they said they couldn't get the correct one.

My last one chewed up the hub/spindle and discolored some metal from heat. Oh, it also wobbled a little and that tire had more uneven wear than the others.

Cheap regulators suck. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you want to get one that can adjust down to around 3 to 4 psi accurately. It kind of sounds like it's running rich. Check your plugs to be sure, then clean them up before retuning. I agree about driving the carb in stages, but if its properly tuned, you should be able to put your foot in it above 2000 rpm without it crashing. What main jets and air correctors are you running? What's your altitude?

My muffler must be balding.

It's a power supply

I know there are a million of these threads, but this might be helpful: I replaced the burnt out hvac console lights (all 3 of them) in my 1998 Legacy Outback with high intensity 3mm warm white led's. The green rubbers from the old burnt out lights fit right over the new ones. The light level is perfect and looks stock when its in the car, meaning it's not too bright at night. I took the liberty to wash everything since it was sticky from years of coffee and who knows what... looked like beer. I don't even drink beer. Once you have everything disassembled except the circuit board off of the face plate, you'll have to tug a little harder than you might want to pop it loose from the button faces. This sort of thing scares me, but after close examination, the buttons just pop onto the end of the switches. Do this carefully so you don't bend the other led's that illuminate when you select specific buttons. Specs: 3 led's in parallel each led: 20mA 3.2-3.4 forward current resistors: I calculated about 180 ohms at 14v. I put two 100 ohm resistors in series (200 ohms) just to be safe. See picture, below. Before you put the whole assembly back together, plug it into the car and make sure the led's all light up. If any don't, pull them off the board and re-install them 180 degrees from their prior orientation. Then pop the board into the face plate. You can follow the traces on the board around and see which pins you need to put the resistors on. It's the end two on the passenger side. I trimmed the ribbon cable back a bit to make this easier. I also put a red led in the ash tray light. Led: 20 mA, 3v foreward voltage, Resistor: 680 ohms. Also, my Kenwood stereo display stopped working about 2 years ago. I've been flying by braille that long. There were no other instances on the internet 2 years ago. Then I happened to check for the problem yesterday and there was an overwhelming number of hits. Luckily someone figured out that a few resistors needed re-flowing, hence taking the dash apart. I thought I'd do the lights, too.

That poor GL is just sitting there without an engine. I need to get cracking on that EJ swap. Darn school. I replaced the burnt out hvac console lights (all 3 of them) in my 1998 Legacy Outback with high intensity 3mm warm white led's. The green rubbers fit right over them. The light level is perfect and looks stock when its in the car, meaning it's not too bright at night. I took the liberty to wash everything since it was sticky from years of coffee and who knows what...... looked like beer. I don't even drink beer. Specs: 3 led's in parallel each led: 20mA 3.2-3.4 forward current resistors: I calculated about 180 ohms at 14v. I put two 100 ohm resistors in series (200 ohms) just to be safe. See picture. I also put a red led in the ash tray light. Led: 20 mA, 3v foreward voltage, Resistor: 680 ohms. Also, my Kenwood stereo display stopped working about 2 years ago. I've been flying by braille that long. There were no other instances on the internet 2 years ago. Then I happened to check for the problem yesterday and there was an overwhelming number of hits. Luckily someone figured out that a few resistors needed re-flowing, hence taking the dash apart. I thought I'd do the lights, too.