kanurys

Are the threads and hole size for the plug on the side of the radiator on my EA82 the same as the dimensions for the temp switch for the fans? It's the plug right next to the temp switch but on the passenger-side end of the radiator. My plan is to run two completely independent cooling fan systems (switch/relay/fan) for redundancy. I currently have one. Maybe I'll post a pic to help clarify... (And why is the site having so many database errors every few minutes?)

I just subscribed to your youtube stuff. Good work on everything and great documentation. You're inspiring me to take more pics/vid of my work and to fix the little bit of rust on the GL.

Man that sucks. That stretch of 160 is nasty. Another thing to consider about CO is that your car will run differently with the thinner air. You'll notice a little less power, naturally, as the ecu compensates. SOA suggests that you run 87 octane or higher gas above 5000 feet elevation. I usually have a blend of regular and plus in my tank since we're cruising around at 6700+ and rarely go lower in Durango. It seems to make the car more happy - i.e. run more clean and with more power. When the knock sensor detects pre-detonation (which is reduced with higher octane gas) the ecu retards timing until the knock goes away. If it's not sensing correctly, it can drastically effect emissions. I had a knock sensor circuit failure code come up on the EJ25. I pulled the sensor, cleaned it's metal surfaces thoroughly and reinstalled. I could hear the improvement in engine performance and started getting a few mpg higher. Where are you moving from, subynut? Nice battery tie down. That's exactly what I have on my lifted 87 GL.

What area of CO are you thinking about moving to? Like stated above, Denver area is the only really stringent place for emissions laws. If you drive there form the rockies side, you'd see why. SMOGGGGGG. Just a pointer on the intake air temp: if you have an Android phone there is an app called Torque! which can monitor all the engine sensors via bluetooth OBDII sender. I just bought one for $17 shipped on ebay and can't wait to analyze my EJ25D. - it also does logging. Just about anywhere in the mountains or on the westslope there are no emissions laws. People there are more friendly, too.

At least you know what you did wrong and can fix it. Check out some of the tutorials/primers on that same website. They have some good tips for installing components, etc...

Being a novice is great! Everything you do contributes to the learning curve. I'm excited to see your project finalized, like everyone else here. If you have any soldering or wiring questions feel free to shoot them my way. Doing this MegaSquirt stuff makes stripping the ECU harness look simple, hu?

And make sure the letter on the face of the star rotor and cylinder rotor that both spin are facing the same way. I think there is some sort of tolerance issue there, too, which could cause binding... I can't remember if the correct direction is towards the engine or away. Guys?

I've been messing with logic controllers for a long time, now. I've used many brands of jumper and the quality varies greatly. Here is a link to a relatively cheap set that is good quality (no broken wires/crimps/soldiers internally) http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8430 -kanurys

Same, here. My EJ25D looses more oil via PCV system than my N/A EA82. I have a catch can on the EA82 and mostly just get water. It prevents some oil from reaching the intake when I'm on steep hills or off camber slopes. I'd say definily get it working right for the EA82T, which would definily have more oil in the PCV system. I'm thinking about installing the same kind of can on the EJ.

Gotchya. That would make sense if I were to adjust by 1 degree. I guess Camber plates are the best option. Any other ideas that might work? Maybe I could modify the lift spacer slightly. Move the captive nuts or something.

Get your drill out. Thanks Chucks for the pictures and explanation. I'd love to do that some time, but for now I'm going to keep on the EA82 path (no 5 lug swap). I like my AA rims. So, I'm looking for camber options with the 4" SJR setup.

Yeah, it would be great to understand fully the way the plates mounted up. We need PICTURES.

I Just put new 27" AT's on my '87 GL with 4" SJR lift. I noticed the little nubbins on the tread wearing off on the inside road face of the driver's side tire. This reminded me that I measured (roughly with a protractor and long straight-edge) the camber to be off by about 1 degree between left and right front tires. There is also slight little pull to the right. Anyways, I've read a ton of threads with different information regarding adjusting camber on these older vehicles - or rather, making it adjustable - to no avail for a cost effective solution. Then I thought of the question I pose to the forum: would it be prudent to lengthen the strut top mounting holes transversely to give a small amount of camber adjustment? What do you think? It's certainly cheap. One of my concerns is the clearance of the SJR strut spacer clearing the strut tower walls if adjusted for camber. Another concern may be material strength of the strut tower, but I'm not as concerned with that, considering the design. Reinforcement is also possible. I think there are a lot of other things I could break before that.

Thanks! I'm glad this could be a resource for others. I did all this on a really low budget but did just enough to have a clean car. I saw the pics of yours. We have twins! You should start a thread and link it here.

Washed both scoobs. No more road salt.

Alright! It feels great to update the thread a bit. I bought new A/T tires and had them installed on the AA rims. I like the black on black. They're 205/75/15's which I think works out to about 27.1".

rebuilt ea82, weber-ed. I'd go with an ej22 if you have the opportunity. My EA heads are decked so it has a little higher compression than stock, which is noticeable in low rpm torque. The ej22 will kick more butt, though. Just search around. There are a ton of threads discussing these subjects in detail. Today I got all the parts for the legacy outback suspension rebuild - all sti bushings and KYB shocks. Also going to replace tie rod ends and ball joints. This will be a nice compliment to the sti engine and transmission mounts in it. While I'm doing all this I will be driving the GL! YES!

Actually I only drove a week with the stock rims and the 4" lift. Before the 27's and AA rims I was running 29's on re-drilled rims. I think the 27's handle better than the 29's and feel less bouncy. They get noticeably more torque, too. With the 4" you get most of your clearance from tires, not really much from the lift.

I finally bit the bullet and bought new 27" A/T tires to put on the Allied Armament rims that have been aging like red wine in my garage.

That's the same stuff I used. the seal kit is great except all of the paper gaskets are absolute crap. I'd order the kit and then get the substitute gaskets (er, the correct ones) from the dealer - they're plastic and some synthetic material. Those stopped a bunch of my leaks. Also the water pump gasket from the dealer - no question. The anti-after-burn valve in your picture 3 on first post is probably worthless now. The check valve in them rusts and becomes faulty. I'd remove it and plug the hole at the EGR valve. EGR still functions great and it will run more smooth through throttle positions. Yeah, those damn coolant hoses leak easily everywhere they have a hose clamp. You have to warm it up and cool it down several times and then re-tighten them.

what about cleaning the idle air control valve (IAC)? That seems to remedy some of these high rpm problems. I agree that it is also very likely a vac leak or bad ECU temp sensor (on the coolant pipe that runs over the bock and under the intake manifold, passenger side).

what about cleaning the idle air control valve (IAC)? That seems to remedy some of these high rpm problems.

These cars are easier than others but so much more difficult to work on than my lifted 87 GL. I guess it makes me appreciate the older gens and 80's engineering a bit.... Still, suspension design has come leaps and bounds since the 80's. My GF's 04 impreza handles like a dream compared to the outback... soft and firm feeling at the same time, and tight with a quick steering ratio.

Yeah, same thing for Legacy Outback http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=13225 the cheapest I've found them is $37 each plus shipping. It's $80 plus shipping for a whole new after-market(so not as nice as OEM bushings) control arm with that little bushing pressed in on rockauto, and then x2... I'd say if you're arms are in good shape it's worth it to press the bushings. I found them on http://www.subarugenuinepars.com for that price by searching for the part number. *They also have a pair of Group N control arm bushings that say they'll fit a 1999 Impreza. Will this fit my 1998 Legacy Outback? https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=746 P.S. I just did the Group N engine and transmission mounts - wow, what a difference, but a lot more engine vibration at around 2000 rpm.

I'm refreshing my 1998 Legacy Outback suspension. There is a ton of info on replacing the transverse link (the bigger bushing on the front control arms) but almost none at all about the little cylindrical bushing on the same arms. Does Subaru even offer this?