kanurys

Dude, sweet scans. And yes, that is exactly what I needed. My Haynes doesn't have ea82's and my FSM pdf is missing the carb section. Thank you.

I have a vac diagram under my hood that is not helpful, since I don't have all that stuff on there anymore. It's weberized, too, and doesn't have the Christmas tree of hard lines and other extraneous vacuum crap that came with the hitachi. Question: What components do the ports on the Thermo Vacuum switch terminate at? Which ports exactly on the thermo vac switch? I've done a lot of research on this, but can't find anything specific enough to say, for example, the top port leads to the egr, middle to the charcoal canister and bottom to the carb egr port, or what ever it is. I'm looking for a definitive vac signal path please. Thanks.

Right on. I bet that is exactly it. I disconnected a ton of stuff, but only hooked up a line that allowed my vents to actuate, but there are a few things dangling that might be related. If the CC runs directly off of engine vacuum, that is most likely the culprit. I'll check my lines when I get the engine back in. My last two vehicles had separate vacuum pumps for the cruise control, just like a turbo or a diesel, so I forgot to even check the source of vac for the 87 GL. I already torqued the bolts to snug+1/4 turn, so I'll sit with that unless someone stops me. The feel seems about right, anyways. Thanks GD, Sesh

I totally agree about the torques. I was a bike mechanic for 6 years and worked with a lot of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm bolts. My torque wrench was my arm, and when in practice, was pretty close to acurate. I also noticed that different materials could handle different torques. None the less, I'm not so concerned about these bolts not being torqued to their size and hardness standard, but to their subaru spec, for all the vibration they encounter in their position. I was so anxious to rip the malfunctioning hitachi off of the engine and install the weber, that I forgot to map out the cruise parts. Now I want to study the diagrams to actually figure it out. Everything was working before the swap, so I figure I'm just missing something... Any input on how this puppy actuates?

My goal with the cruise control diagrams is to develop a system to use stock subie cruise with my Weber. Any ideas? Perhaps if there is a FSM with hitachi info in it, I could peruse it and write something up for everyone once I make it work.

I need a few numbers. What is the torques rating for these bolts (1987 d/r 5spd)? Also, Does anyone have diagrams/fsm's for the electrical portion and mechanical portion of a hitachi carburetted ea82 cruise control system. Not my FSM nor my Haynes manuals refer to this. Thanks, Sesh

A little red loctite goes a long ways. Here's what happened to me only 330 miles from home: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/16144-re-timing-crank-pulley-cam-seal.html

Totally! I met up at Wal-mart (bless its local business and social morality destroying heart) to buy my 87 GL D/R.

Does anyone have a diagram of the cruise control system on a hitachi carb vehicle as well as the electrical diagram? I'd like to study it and figure out how to adapt it for my weber. Also, the torque values for a D/R input shaft holder bolts (as above pic) on the front of the transmission? Thanks again, beateru for the numbers you had.

As I know. Thanks for the numbers, though. That's great.

Bump -> any answers to the above questions?

Time for an update: I installed the one little piece of timing cover to protect the driver's side timing belt. Pics later. The day was mostly spent on cleaning the engine bay and staring at the transmission. I think I might rebuild it another year. For now I have these questions: -What is the Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolt torque on a 23 spline setup? Neither my haynes manual or my partial FSM have this number. -What is the proper torque for the bolts that hold the input shaft guide on? These ones: Before: After: That's the only piece of timing cover I'm installing on the engine:

I love it. When we go into recession, all I want to do is go hang out in my shop, too. Excellent fab work, by the way.

elbow grease + lots of degreaser = shiny aluminium

Finished my PCV setup on the rebuild: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817

Phoenix? It might take two Dr. Peppers. It's a long ways from Durango.

OK. After a trip to the Ace hardware, I got a few things and finished the PCV system. I also installed the flywheel and pilot bearing. I picked up this little guy for $0.70, which has a brass insert near the bottom end that I could clamp to: And made a spot for him using a 1/4" bit in the carburetor filter mounting plate bolt hole with a little help from a zip tie on the carb mounting stud for support. I used the T from the original PCV setup to connect the drivers side breather, PCV valve and the smaller vent to the air cleaner. It worked GREAT. (The blocked off hole in the corner of the filter mount is my brilliant idea before realizing the filter sat right over it, as my neighbor pointed out.) Now I have the proper sized tubes running to the proper ports. Clean and designed just like the diagram in the FSM. This routing makes me proud.

Does anyone have a pdf of the COMPLETE FSM for an EA82? Mine is missing the clutch section and a few others. What are the torque values for the pressure plate, etc... Oh, it's a 23 spline clutch.

Ya, I thought it was funny, too. Thanks for the hornet idea... maybe next time I rebuild a gutless supreme.

sorry, maybe that was a little harsh. Anyways, the paint is just for style. When I had a completely iron engine, I painted things to keep them from rusting, but those were Willys days...

Actually, it's so readers without any thoughtful comments get a seizure when they look at my pictures... This is a useful but low budget rebuild I'm doing for fun. If I can't have a little fun painting it, then why even clean anything? Sure - The valve covers worked fine before, so did the water pipes, and the pulleys, so I guess you nailed it, in a sense. Oh, and the term I used was engine enamel.

My thoughts exactly. I went out and grabbed a tube of Ultra Grey and a helacoil kit since someone stripped out the cam seal carrier bolts before I bought the vehicle. Here are some pictures of my process and where I'm currently at: Before: After: Before: After: Bleeding the lifters Aaaaaaand... time for a beer. (that's my girlfriend's impreza)

Do you guys think Permatex Ultra Blue will work fine to mate the cam carriers to the heads? http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Blue_Multipurpose_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm Since I have half a tube left, I'd rather use it up, than go buy Ultra Grey. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Grey_Rigid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

Thanks for the reassurance. The book says 47, so I took it to 55 lb-ft. No work on it today. Instead, we brewed 12 gallons of Belgian double.

I got the heads back, lapped the valves and threw on the permatorques with final torque of 55 lb-ft. Here are some pics. Do you guys think I should retorque after run-in or just call it good, as is? I'd rather not pull the engine again.