Txakura

Your timing is excellent. I was just under the hood following the vacuum tubing around to all the components and checking they were at least connected. At an idle, I have vacuum to the strut tower device, (vacuum actuator?) and if I unplug the line from it, and apply vacuum the engine revs up. So, everything under the dash looked good, and apparently works with suction on it. but... this device, it has four electrical leads running to it + vac in and vac out, isn't passing the vac along. I assume this is normal at an idle. So it seems to me, it is this device that is not working, or it is not being 'told' to work. Kind of back to square one, I guess I can use the 'cheapest part first' rule and see what happens? At least now I know it CAN work if vacuum goes to the throttle diaphragm.

LMAO... I didn't have the right wire gauge to fix this, (on my way to the auto store)... I did use a wire to make a bypass and the driver window worked for the first time in two years... the passenger window did not work at all, so it seems like I can have one or the other, but not both at the same time. and I had a flat... and there was a puddle of coolant under my water pump I think the Loyale is trying to tell me it doesn't want to be fixed and is done driving for the winter

so far so good, everything I've checked - terminals and all - has been tightly packed with dielectric grease and corrosion free underneath I wonder if that's because we don't salt the roads here?

while tearing the car apart to fix the power windows... I think I stumbled on the cruise control box, npn, nsn, nothin'... I'll keep digging.

well well well I have power all the way to the kick panel, it now seems it has to be exactly as you said, possibly in that short run from the kick panel, through the door frame... It's pretty hard to see what might be going on. I was thinking the easiest way to deal with this would be to cut the red wire above the connector inside the car, splice a new wire on, and fish it through into the door. When the correct length is reached, splice above the connector in the door. By removing the tape and pulling the old wire clear while I worked, I'm sure I'd find the break in the insulation just as you described.

breaker has continuity, relay coil has continuity, relay seems to work, breaker power is always hot, relay power is hot with key on, passenger door window switches work fine, hmmm passenger side gets it's own power from relay but the ground is routed through the master switch? interesting that the master panel can disable the passenger side with the window lock out really seems to be heading back to the main panel power supply as the issue wiring is surprisingly clean and corrosion free, ground wires nearby are also clean, floor pan looks really good, no moisture signs under carpet heading over to driver kick panel to see what can be seen with master power

OK. after I find my multi meter and valium, I'll check it out - good advice

odd little dealy, not even what I was expecting the breaker to look like

yeah, I just didn't realize that meant pulling so much, that is one handy sucker to get to...

aaaggggghhh I found it, who's bright freakin' idea was it to mount it there, under the door threshold/seat/carpet? if this legendary system were to have a resettable breaker, where would that be? Chilton's is clueless...

well, I don't have the passenger seat trick going, but the same symptoms... where is the relay?

This is EXACTLY what my Loyale rs (Leone to the rest of the world) is doing, I sure wish I knew how this turned out... I'd be happy to find the breaker for the window circuit... where is that dasm thing hidden?

How much you wanna' bet some clever mechanic left that on the floor the last time my dad changed the cv joints? I've had them changed once too, I'll look for anything 'extra' on the outside of the case near the axles I once coined the term 'forensic mechanics', this is a good example of it's use

thanks, valve? are you referring to my check ball comment? the check ball is in the aftermarket recirculating coolant heater - not the subaru appreciate the direction of flow, now I am ready to install

that bulb you changed to amber, I just replaced mine and can't remember if it was a dual or single filament, can it be a marker and signal? 3 lead pig tail? when you say 'simple splice', did you splice the original turn signal wires to the corner light pig tail leads - therby having the original turn sockets left over? this is a good mod, my under bumper lights are rectangular and not as large as the ones in your pic, they would really really work well in the recessed oem turn location

some kind of stone guard is nice to have, if it's the strip I'm thinking of, I'd think you could use one of the strip screws to hold it and drill a fresh hole for the other light bracket hole - leave your options open, I had to play with my lights a few times to decide where I wanted them aimed I really like Skip's revised turn signals and lights mounted in the bumper, that recessed turn signal wasn't visible from the side at all - I totally agree with the idea of putting the turn signals on the corners where they should have been to begin with, and the aux lights in the bumper look very clean tucked in like that (-sigh- like I needed more projects)

Correct, the smaller one seems more conducive to finding an elbow fitting to route the hose tightly and safely, the really ginormous plug seems like it actually receives some kind of heating element that threads in, some oem deal if I understand the other post correctly, and trying to deduce what the function of something I've never seen before is... ha ha anybody know which heater hose goes to the core, which back to the engine? (direction of flow is relevant, the heater has a check ball to promote proper flow) thanks gang, btw, the irony is that the weather has been too crappy to install this yet

not sure what the 'vacuum compressor' refers to, or what the switch would look like it seem like I have a vacuum reservoir, or tank under the hood, but I'm not sure what the switch would be or where it would be seems I've actually got an aftermarket set up, the stock diagram might still be useful to show me an example of a complete system and give me a ball park to work within - I'll send my addy thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply

sorry, MT, that is a worthy tip and an excellent example of something that can be checked easily that I would not have thought of dasm I love this bbs

aaahhh hence the blanked panel pop out over there... hmmm, if I could figure out who made the aftermarket system I might be able to get a diagram from them, thanks

I have lights under the bumper, I didn't take into account busting through snow drifts - so I broke a lens two nights back, could have been gravel in the plowed snow berm or the shock of rapid cooling, dunno when it isn't the end-of-the-world-weather I will be moving them to the top of the bumper, I wish I could come up with a roof mount that didn't look cheesy btw, throwing the extra wide light to the sides has definitely kept me from having a zillion rude deer surprises and helped me to figure out where the road center was in really really bad weather

oops, at -3 f my 10/40 turned to jello, when I fired up the pressure went to 85+ psi and then to 0. engine seems fine, think I just popped the pressure switch diaphragm and am getting a dead gauge error, not actually 0 psi why are the pressure senders so expensive?

anybody got a schematic for the power windows on a 1990 loyale rs, or any 1990 car? amazing that two switches and one lock out switch can have 18 wires going to them... I'm swapping a bad switch, (yes I lost one of the brushes cleaning it) which is fine, but if I run into a snag I'd like to bypass the nonsense and power my window up that last 1/8" as it's wind noise is driving me insane

ok, cruise has never worked on my 1990 loyale rs, got it from my folks and they never used cruise so didn't know it was out believe it's factory cruise, small panel to the right of the steering wheel on the dash anyway, the fuse isn't blown, but beyond that, I don't even know if the panel is getting power or where most of the components are for the system (aside from the vacuum actuator and the bigger pieces under the hood) so, the $5 question is - where do I start? and does anyone have a schematic of the electrical for this? thanks gang

and yet it ran and got back home... amazing