Txakura

I'm not sure what it is, I don't know brats... but I saw that post on making an extended cab brat and thought that was 'bout the coolest thing I'd ever seen. It caught my eye because I drive by it every day and it hasn't moved in months, if not years! The body is root beer brown with the BRAT orange and white swoosh running up the side. The body is very clean, only a dented right front fender, and it looked like something I could pop out pretty easily. Other than that, all I noticed was a 'dl' badge on the tailgate and that the bed and gate were in better shape than my F-250. No t-tops or jump seats. Thinking it might be an '85, but I couldn't see the front. I'm hoping to track down the owner and see if I can get it for a few hundred bucks. The joke is that for the last month I was fixated on an XT6 in Montana... last week a cheap Legacy wagon here in my town... I truly blame this board for making me notice every potentially abandoned Subaru in a 50 mile radius... I see myself with 3 or 4 Suubies - none of them running, all of them 'in work'!

great, now I'm looking at a brat, I blame this group

I kind of like the late 80's motion wheels...

what does the illustrated parts guide show? that might help with the control arm bushings, don't know about the cone interchangeability, maybe you could post some pics?

OK. let me get this all straight in my head, and not to be a total *&^%, but... you have an awd that you are putting very good road tires on, with a rear end that is lifted 3-4" over the front and you're worried about handling? ok, just making sure I'm tracking through the cold medicine, carry on

see, if you're posting from Michigan or talking about Alaskan Mooseii, then it makes perfect sense you'd have encountered a black bear or Bullwinkle... but down here in Lower Elbonia we have wheat fields and lentils and they just don't blend in - no matter how hard they try a Moose just doesn't seem too incognito in a wheat field of course, I've seen a few over the years but generally it's the 8 million deer lunging for my bumper that I'm used to, not a cow on stilts bumbling down a road I drive twice a day I actually know a guy who hit a moose on his Yamaha FZR in Minnesota, it totalled his bike, he flew over it and did a superman in full battle rattle and was unhurt - the moose looked at him and walked off intot he woods

sure

imagine my surprise to come around a corner to this fine gal walking across the road a few hours ago; one of those on your hood can ruin your whole day and no, 'meese' aren't common here

why is your butt up in the air?

what's the final ratio on that? just curious...

yeah what he said just remember watts/volts = amps for example; 4 x 55 watt h4, (220 watts)/12 volts = 18.3 amps so choose your wire and fuses accordingly use relay(s) too and if worse comes to worse, you can always put a trickle charger on your car when you're not using it to keep the battery in top health

screw wal mart

wow, I'm such a slacker, i've been perfectly happy with some wal-mart cheapies, 55 watt h4's... i just took my time to aim them really well and not only fill the shadows left 'under' the high beams but off to the sides to show me the ditches and the deer coming out of the fields mmm i suppose it helped i took the time to wire a relay and get the most out of them

no no, the goose chase is over, it isn't a california model, never was the egr valve itself is fine, i played with it and it works - it's solely the solenoid, no power = wide open, power = slams shut and never opens I bypassed it and after all the crap burned out of my system (that was cool) the car is running much better - i'll do the toyota mod on that as far as the iac, i took the air valve off the solenoid portion and am soaking it in solvent to clean all the carbon off, i'll put that on later and see if my fast idle comes back ( i had 2, one is on the car but may not be working fully) there is no egr temp sensor, but the '88 and later spfi' code says 'temp sensor or circuit', i imagine a solenoid that is refusing to move may qualify as a 'short' in the circuit amd the ecu is dutifully reporting that as far as my cel sending codes, you guys think i'm smoking crack, but I'll catch it in the act and post a vid of it if I have to disconnect the battery and make it do it! so, one problem solved, but not THE problem - no fast idle when stone cold about the time i get this sorted out i should be ready to pull the damn engine - ha ha

that's why i didn't think of it when i was wondering about my idle, thought it only came into play above idle - didn't think of 'partially stuck open' well my system is completely inop, so actually it will only run better warm when i go to the boneyard to scavenge for toyota solenoids i'll grab more than one, want me to get another one for you?

Now I need to give my subaru a ******* to keep it happy? dasm the lengths i go to, i swear...

crap, there's no vacuum to the egr valve past the egr solenoid I think I just need another solenoid, preferably toyota

I'll tell you what, when I make some templates and try to decipher the clues from that rally manual, I'll pass on the info here or in a new thread - at any rate i'll drop you a pm as a heads up that I have something to look at. first one to snap their car in half wins!

1, me either, fortunately they are $65 at my local yard for this car 2, roger that - egr solenoid, not the wrong place to look to see if it was working i guess, yes purge valve too 3, i'll look into that 4, is this about egr temp or is my system just not working? would a bad egr valve do this? 5, not cali 6 did i plug it all back in after looking for voltage, continuity, vacuum leaks and trying to clean the solenoids? yes and what the hell does this have to do with my cold idle? :-\

not the same as the ecu, 48? no such code? anyway, i followed the vacuum line from the egr valve to the greasy cube on the manifold, to the right of the thermostat housing, to the left of the throttle body and under every other hose and wire it seems to be the electrical device that allows vacuum to the egr diaphram the connector had 11.57 volts with the key in the on position, the cube had a resistence of 35 ohms, i blew some crc electrical contact cleaner through it and let it dry and cleaned the filter material on the tiny air vent still got '55' code on key on

roger, going to check the ecu itself, green connectors are not, uh, connected i'll be damned, 55? "88 and later models with Single-Point Fuel Injection code 55 EGR temperature sensor or circuit" is the 'egr temp sensor' different than the egr valve itself? going to go stare at car... my manual is clear as mud and half as useful that would make it run like dooky on startup?

roger, going to check the ecu itself, green connectors are not, uh, connected however, my cel has been sending me morris code that matches the description of the ecu signal, think it may be a 1990 spfi thing "90 models - Trouble codes on the Justy are viewed on the Oxygen Moniter light, all other models the codes can be viewed on either the Oxygen Moniter light or the MIL (check engine light)." this is a loyale rs so i'm assuming it falls under 'all other models' but no day is complete without sticking my head under the dashboard and practicing inverted yoga

oh yes, lots of code posts, cel light confuses the hell out of me... not sure what it's trying to tell me - will look at ecu for giggles

something isn't right, it has "no choke", maybe the iac's aren't quite right after all, but is there anything else in those 20 or so greasy widgets, dashpots, thing-a-ma-jigs and wiry bits that can make the car run as if it had "no choke"? anyone? buehler? buehler? anyone got a reader i can borrow, the dealer wants $80 just to hook the car to the diagnostic machine

get a new turn signal blinker from the auto store and look for the same one behind the fuse panel and switch it out, cheap part too