Txakura

no no, he's right, I have an ea82, I have turned on the ac when the engine is at a normal op temp, but it never seems to turn on the secondary fan - perhaps the winter isn't the best time to look at that but I can use a multimeter to read whether it is operating or not, but I digress... I don't want to hijack the thread - if I find something concrete I'll post my own dealy, this thread just got me to wondering about it more... carry on

How does one test the secondary electric fan to make sure it is working properly? I can never catch mine in the act of running.

wow, I just got caught up on all this soob porn like a lot of other people said already, I really appreciate the pictures, I also like the shots of the suspension - I'm hoping to pick up an sjr kit soon I'm dying to hear how this turned out

Just a small repair, hardly earth shattering but useful... If you look closely, you can see the plastic on my corner marker pigtail socket has gotten brittle with age, vibration has broken off the locking tabs. It wouldn't stay in the lens housing any more. Using a very small sheet metal screw and piloting the hole with a #40 (3/32") gives just enough to hold it in place, it doesn't have to be tight - just snug. It doesn't have to come all the way out to change the bulb either, it supports it just enough to trap the socket in the hole. easy deal.

I put together some additional photos and a write up, I am pleased it was accepted into the USRM quite quickly. Today I might straighten a fender and do 'skip's cool turn signal mod', those will be other threads - of course.

what's an ss? :-\

there you go, looks good oh yeah, watch for snow drifts (just kidding)

Found it after I pulled the door, when I replaced the two wires previously - the passenger side stopped altogether, the driver still worked because it was grounding out through the system! I put more pics in the repair section, maybe it'll help someone else, good call on the bundle fatigue Gloyale I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years

Time for war... get the window down if you can, and tap the door snubber pin loose. If you can't move the window, I have used a 1 amp motorcycle trickle charger to carefully power the window motor directly the window master panel wiring connects behind the driver kick panel, the column wiring is exposed for some other work - don't pay attention to it loosen the fender, the two famous bolts behind the bumper can stay in place don't panic, my fender was wrinkled last November sliding into a ditch - not doing this now you can actually get to the door hinge bolts I'm not too worried about my paint, it was ok to just set it down gently awesome overview of mess pull the grommet off the door frame and feed the wire bundle through set it down to work on it I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years I wasn't expecting the main ground to be broken, the driver window still worked (after I had replaced the main power wire on top of the existing bundle)- by grounding out through some other part of the bundle, but the passenger side didn't work at all. When I added the new power wire on top of the existing bundle, apparently the main ground finally gave up and broke, disconnecting the passenger side - just like flicking the window lock your passenger circuit has to be complete at this panel otherwise it won't work from either door repaired bundle with fresh wire and splices you don't need to cut this grommet, I had already cut it to run the previous repair , I added a little atv so that it would seal after I taped it all back up and put it in re-taped a little too far, had to take some off later - no big re-connected to make sure it worked before I buttoned it up same as above I hung it off the striker and used the outline from the hinge sealant to get it back in place, it was off about 2-3 mm at the striker with the bolts snug. I just jockeyed it around until it lined up and closed correctly - then tightened the bolts fully In hindsight, it was much easier to pull the fender loose and drop the door than it was to try and fix the wiring in place - and it didn't take very long either; definitely one of those easier to bite the bullet than try to get around it affairs hope this helps some other soul save time and frustration

Here is the cover I accidentally left out, yes, my camera is from the future before I had put everything back together, I kind of liked it and just went with it, at a fast idle with nothing indicated it is just a glossy black here is the normal stuff except the parking brake light, I think this is much less cluttered looking and easier on the eyes - even if it was a minor mistake that showed it to me I kept the lens cover of course, I can always add it back. what do you guys think? do you think it looks better and more modern too?

the weird thing is that, back when dirt was new and I took driver's ed, they taught us to NOT lock our doors when we were in the car - in an accident it could hamper someone from being able to open the door and help you but, yes, there are holes in that idea - I know I wonder if being locked or unlocked really makes a dif in crash safety - as long as the door is engaged at the striker, does it really matter?

me too, gotten in a few power struggles with them myself...

found it. it was the cruise panel button itself now, let me defend myself a bit, I followed all the other crap because I could get to it easily to get the switch panel out I had to take off the various trim panels, drop the steering column, and remove the visor around the instrument panel - just so I could unhook the cruise control panel and unravel the wiring from the snakes nest under the steering wheel and ecu Finally, with nothing to lose, I cut the wires where I could easily splice them and put the damn cruise panel on a multimeter having no schematic or any reference material at all, I figured out by process of elimination what did what... until I realized the fault I have a small 12v switch from a computer front panel, I soldered it in and -viola- I can set it and forget it again on the long hauls I have to come up with something that doesn't look like crap to call it really done, I have some wires hanging out right now -btw- in an earlier post i said something about it being able to work, what I meant was that at least all the vacuum crappola was intact as I was able to rev the engine from under the hood with the vacuum line from the right front strut tower to the dash mess - so this week I have my cruise, all heater fan speeds and power driver window working again... sadly the passenger side mysteriously gave up after one day, but I have the panel at my feet and I'll get it sorted out I killed 'tinkerbell' and that damn 'door lock' indicator too

good lord, you mean you're thinking of running both gearboxes so that you'll have 5 car x 6 bike for 30 possible gear combinations? that would be interesting to manipulate, but I can see where it would be useful for rock crawling if that is your gig I hope you do find a way to do that and post your insanity on the bbs

lol, yes tinkerbell was a goner as soonas i realized it was right where she lived, re: trunk lock light, yes that is also stupid and should be terminated I'm not sure what the 'digidash' is, but it sounds good, maybe something more modern? this is on a '90 loyale rs (non turbo) in between the tach and speedo is a vertical cartoon of the car, the high beam indicator, doors etc are illuminated there, plus the 4x4 etc tell you what, if i can borrow a camera i'll post some pics, I really think it looks much better without the outline of the car, it's just a gloss black panel by day but when you open a door or something it suddenly has a clean symbol for it very uncluttered looking, it's definitely growing on me

say, i was in a hurry last night to put it all back in so i could drive this morning and left the car outline window out... (the little image of the car that rides over the center panel caution lights) you know what? i kind of like it without the car outline, it's very clean, just a black panel with those backlit indicators for the door open etc... I may not put it back, it really is easy on the eyes, very very clean oh, i suppose it didn't seal as tightly as it could and some dust might get in there without the plexiglass window... oh, i got rid of the door/key chime too... annoying when you want to open the door and listen to the radio to have it pinging away

Wouldn't it be "easier" to keep the GW gearbox and use the shaft drive output? hell... put it in backwards and make a mid engine mount Soob..

this is a little OT, bear with me I've always been curious about those folks who figure out how to join v-8's for tractor pulls, mmmm k? I'd love to have a small v-8 from two v-four honda interceptor engines... why you could have a 1.0l, 1.5l and 2.0l aluminum v-8 if you could somehow synchronize it all... just a silly thought the swap idea reminded me of, carry on I'll just be in the corner with my fisher price work bench

I thought it was a piece of ring, not FOD

I got rid of that damn 'door lock' warning light on my loyale I was in the dash for something else, I'm not going to miss the dumbest warning light ever cluttering up my panel

%$#@ oh but wait, it isn't over yet. after I ran my new wires through the door pillar from the kick panel to the door - the passenger side stopped working I re-did my splices and double checked my connections, but maybe yet a third wire has broken while I was steering the harness around at this point I think the only way to deal with this is too take the door off, fish the harness out of the kick panel and cut the harness open and replace-a-way damn near every wire of course it's -8 outside right now... maybe I can bring the door into my living room and why do I want this fixed so badly in the winter? I run a delivery route in the car and need to be able to use both windows

thought of that, might be a good way to launch my car into the shed I may try that later today but, yes, it would be good to know if any sort of voltage is getting to the servo at all

me either. I can't find any info on the system in any subbie reference either... I did get a schematic in my email from Kai, but it is for a turbo 1.8 and has a vacuum pump and slightly different 5 wire servo unit I'm kind of stuck unless someone here has an idea or even another servo unit for me try, I can pull that module out and check the circuit board for anything obvious, burned resistor, broken capacitor etc :-\

ah... like my 60's cars had... vacuum diaphragm actuated valve on top of the manifold to allow/restrict coolant flow to the heater core - easy to tell when they went bad, they peed coolant on the manifold I came up with something funny for this, rather than screw around with that drain fitting and elaborate elbows etc... I'll post some pics when I get the chance - might even be useful for someone else

Make it three coupes, it's official. I have bypassed the main power lead in the harness and got the driver window back, and bypassed the blu/blk and now have regained the up on the passenger side... for the first time in two years, I can run both windows from the master panel. I had two broken wires in the door harness, main power and pass up. Thank's to all of you who helped me wade through this, we have left something useful for the next person who searches the threads for power window problems. On that note, I leave with this master panel wiring harness color code; heavy red and black, master power and ground wht/blu (changes to wht/blk after harness) - passenger window down blu/blk - passenger window up red,grn,ylw go to power window control unit under passenger seat right hand seat track, under carpet near door threshold (pull up sill plates, seat, carpet) the forward most device is the resettable breaker, it should have 12v at all times, the middle device is the relay for the system, it will have 12 v when the key is 'on', the 2" x 2" black box is the window control module itself the two black wires screwed down through the plate all the devices mount on are ground leads, check them for corrosion. many people said the main power splices further towards the middle of the car and that they corrode like hell, if you have no power to the devices, follow the wiring under the carpet and re-read this thread for ideas motor colors; passenger door - blu/red and blu come off the passenger door switch to the window motor driver door - blu, wht/red to the motor are actually coming all the way over from the power window control unit under the passenger side all in all I'd say that if you are having problems with your master switch, I'd go right to the driver kick panel - door frame harness and make a bypass lead for testing - splicing in such a way that you can always go back and leaving yourself room to splice well away from the harness connectors - be careful and keep your options open - don't cut anything too short and make another problem thanks gang