Txakura

yes

right, I was thinking of swapping the whole running gear, tranny back - not trying to modify the ea82 equipment - I have the entire Legacy for parts

now I'm getting a woody... the Legacy in question is an AWD 4.11 5 spd and I have the s/r 5spd 3.9 as much as I like the push button 4wd the 4.11 ratio could be fun too

stubbifying the legacy pumpkin? oooo sounds doable hmmm, could that be done without messing with the lash adjustment on the ring and pinion? probably not huh...

Skip? This sounds like something you might know.

I sent an email to a friend in Portland, he's not particularly into suubies, but I explained it would be a shame to let the car go to the crusher and that it would be worth saving, running or not... best I could do to save it, I'm in no position to be buying it and I'm 8 hrs away from it... where is the yard, exactly? he wanted to look into it

aha! yes, that's right! geez I stared right at it but forgot about the stubbies... hmmm... what if I swipe the whole shooting match, from the struts to the tires? can I lego the whole dasm assembly into the Loyale?

newb question, if I wanted to run a 92 Legacy rear dif on my 90 Loyale, (don't worry about gearing issues for this question) would I adapt the ea82 moustache bar to the Legacy dif the Legacy bar to the Loyale or c) none of the above, it's all legos?

from the CDC website; "Hantaviruses have been shown to be viable in the environment for 2 to 3 days at normal room temperature. The ultraviolet rays in sunlight kill hantaviruses. " and "Use a bleach solution or household disinfectant to effectively deactivate hantaviruses when cleaning rodent infestations. " there are also hospital grade spray cleaners that will kill all the way to hep c and hiv, I used to use them at work for bio hazards - but don't remember the brand names nitrile gloves are tight enough to keep many virus from passing through the pores of the material but really, the odds are pretty low to begin with, it's extremely rare up here in the northern latitudes

ok so I drive by the damn thing everyday for 5 years, when I get curious about it it disappears? still no sign of it...

...duh...

IT MOVED... ok, which one of you clowns snagged it out from under me?

anyone got the part number for the ea82 moustache bar bushings?

ooops generally, you want to avoid using steel wire wheels on any aluminum, microscopic bits of steel get left behind and set up dissimilar metal corrosion in the aluminum unless you made cereal bowls in the deck, I'm sure you're fine, did you bring enough pain killers to share?

Isn't that the 'drive' side that gets the most torque?

It's for the oil? I'm sure it's just a mild detergent to help lift sludge and break it up. Why not put it in and run it for a 100 miles or so and then change the oil. I don't think it will hurt anything - or let me put it this way, if someone gave me one I'd try it. (pour it in the wife's car )

Sorry guys, I don't believe in any additives. I use MMO for my air tools, that's about it. I'm in the same camp as RX tuner, if mine wants to tick it will - no matter what. I just endured two weeks of noise and just as it started up out of the blue, it went away on it's own too. ATF makes more sense to me than anything else, it is designed to take horribly high temperatures and pressures and has strong detergents... I have added 1/2 quart to several engines over the years, run it for a long trip and changed the oil when I got home. If any product has actually worked as advertised it'd be Castrol high mileage engine oil. I have had good results eliminating seal weepage in several vehicles, it won't fix a fully blown seal, but it sure makes weepy leaks slow down if not go away completely. That is the case with my ATV (shift shaft seal), F-250, Honda motorcycle (rear valve cover), Jeep (valve cover and head gasket oil leak) and Suubie (seems like every gasket ). Since I switched to that I have never heard the one lifter in my truck that acts up, and the number of times the Suubie gets cranky has been cut in half - at least!

I can't help with the question, but I could take those rear struts off your hands if they'll fit a 1990 Loyale RS 4wd. shoot me a PM

I'm pretty sure my 1990 Loyale has them.

Yes, next time I'm in town I'll take some pics of it and knock on some doors.

This was a freebie. Wish it was always this easy... I was underneath today, and I followed the vacuum lines to the front axle - the lines were not actually connected but laying 1/4" back from the vacuum module. The rubber block that holds the hose cluster had pulled off. I cleaned the dirt from the ports, plugged it back in and safety wired it in place. Guess what? It has 4wd again, that's all it was. Wish everything was that easy.

no - that's just the really great mod I read here, and it got me to looking at Brats - well that and all the brat threads here and all the crazy stuff that gets done with them

my lifter noise comes and goes on it's own schedule regardless of anything I do, it can be absent for days, weeks and months then come and stay long enough for me to think it's permanent - then disappear again

I saw it here on the usmb... waaaay cool http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86075&highlight=extended

I think that's why it caught my eye - it's pretty sharp. There are so many old subarii here, they just stay on the road forever - even when there are holes rusted through them. The practicality of having a Brat appeals to me. I could have a smaller 4x4 for tight roads/trails, great fuel economy and still carry my ghetto quad for camping or hunting. It makes too much sense to have that stashed in my car port than my F-250 XLT King Cab Long Bed... (14mpg highway) ((with a tailwind)) true the F250 I purpose built for towing... but the brat could be a daily driver. phew- thanks gang - now i have to follow up on it