Txakura

yes

too heavy? compared to what? seems to me the new suubies are quite the little mini elephants, and my truck and jeep are not entirely dieters either...

Nein, ich spreche viele Deutsch, aber, wie Loyale 2.7 hat gesagt, die leute hier, die sprechen Englisch nichts andere 'fremdsprache' am meisten. Tchus.

very cool offer of help

Hola y bienvenidos. Muy bonitas fotographias, me gusto su pais como verde y tranquilo! No he tenido mucho practica con mi espanol desde 1998, (tube trabajo en Espana).

I wouldn't mince words talking to the people I got it from, if they claim they 'inspected it and blah blah blah' that's a really crappy oversight and makes me think they didn't do anything - other than sell it. Where did you get it so I can avoid buying anything from them? Oh, and send them a link to the USMB with your post, so they can see that they just lost potential sales from the entire board. It'd be worth renting a small plane just to drop it through their sales office roof.

Oh come on, just use it till it stops working.

kind of a 'disco' mod! Awesome! That is the funniest short I've heard; how about these; the starter engages when the car is put in park and the right front marker light turns on when the heater fan is switched to low (2 different cars) this is a great thread! lol wut? is right!

better than mine - and they work fine

The pad they nest into, that gives the black plastic trim around the glass and holds it in, may have been easier to work with 20 years ago. Also there are three 1/2" squares of double back foam tape at 3,6 and 9 o'clock underneath the glass - rolling the plastic edge over on two sides to slide the glass out worked to a point, it's trying to separate it from the ancient tape that screwed me. -snap-

It's so weird, there are 4 screws under the glass to take the mounting pad off, and all the guts under it can only be accessed after you pull it - and they come right out with another 4 screws... I have an idea, but as has been pointed out it's virtually useless as most would just get another entire mirror assembly... will post pics if successful.

wouln't methanol cut the emissions? like if you ran down to the last quarter tank and put a gallon of methanol in? can't see where white gas would help, only make it worse

it's complicated... I stole the power mirrors off the parts car, then found out the casting to mount to the door was slightly different, so I took the mirrors apart to use my castings and mirror housings (liked my color better) as far as 'tons of' parts, there are FOUR, yes FOUR subarus in the local yard - or I can drive 65 miles one way on the weekend to visit other yards up North... so for $20 in gas, and maybe $5 each (?) I can get new ones, or just find a way to install the $6 glass from Schucks 6 miles away so yeah, the question remains, HTF are you supposed to change them without breaking them :-\

yes, these are all great tips do a quick search on Ebay for 'ATC/ATO 4-way Standard, Side Terminal Fuse Block' too

How are you supposed to remove and replace the outside mirror glass (ea82) without breaking it? I managed to crack new glass trying to get it into the holder... really frustrating design.

Thank you, (shows how much stereo stuff I do) I didn't even think of that.

I think he just meant where they all go and the order they are in. Take your time and lay things out as you remove them, build a little 'model' of stuff as you go so that you can keep it all straight. That'll help you to go backwards and rebuild it all too. I've even drawn little pics with a sharpie on cardboard and put bolts through the cardboard to keep complicated stuff sorted out.

No kidding, I just did some work on my Jeep and Chilton's had such useful advice as 'if the axle seal is bad, replace it', 'if the axle bearing is excessively worn replace it with a new one' of course, how the frick you're supposed to get the seal and bearing out of the axle housing weren't worth mentioning... and unless you have x-ray vision, it's hard to inspect the bearing without pulling it - and even less likely it'll survive the removal with home tools! Carry on, just had to vent. And aren't those crappy black and white photos useful... ok, done now... really

Can you post a pic? I have an extra plate but we might not be speaking the same language.

Not entirely OT, does anyone know of a bus bar, or terminal strip that can be used for accessories? I'd like a 3-4 terminal bar that I could put under the hood or dash to keep things tidy for light wiring etc. It'd be nice to have one rated for high power so that I could run a direct line to the battery and then go from there to Hellas etc

-doch- my ignorance is showing

I'm always amazed at how quickly things can go south, and often marvel at my reaction (or lack of) to them. Buy a lotto ticket tonight, well done and good save. A minor mark on the windshield is better than the ICU any day. So they lost their entire wheel assembly and spun out? Fresh USMB underwear for everyone, on the house.

um... I have no credentials but his problem sounds like something in the front end is binding, (to me anyway) I hit a well placed boulder with my F250. The steering wouldn't return to center, turning to one side was better than the other. I searched and searched under the truck and never could find the impact point or anything visibly wrong. After some time it loosened up and acted normally. Then I blew the pressure seal out of my steering gear box output shaft and dumped my PS fluid out in one large -foosh-. When I went to change the seals, I found my lower shaft bearing in mini chunks o' shrapnel. The impact point was the tip of the output shaft just past the pitman arm, it munched the bearing - the binding - and chewed it to pieces - the freeing up of the steering... it wasn't until one of the bits ate the seal that I figured it out. Ended up replacing the whole steering gear box. His first post sounds like that to me, something is binding up in the steering and may have nothing to do with alignment. I yield the soap box to the next speaker.

without knowing the car, generally it's just a matter of using a multi-tester to measure the voltages at the relay, if the relay isn't closing it won't be sending anything to the device it controls there should be 12 volts going to one of the connectors at the relay, when the key is turned to the on position, it should close the relay and complete the circuit - allowing 12 volts to 'flow' out one of the other connectors to the device it controls maybe someone else can elaborate, you might mention what model of Subaru it is and someone may have something specific for it

Still looking, does a beer stain count? Actually if I could get one of those Jesus action figures with the pull string voice, like I saw on the Top Gear North Pole episode, I'd be pretty happy with that.