Txakura

hmm slightly puzzled, acts like iac is bad -(unplugging iac makes no change hot or cold engine) i had an extra , cleaned it and put it on got voltage at connector to iac, resistence is within spec, applying voltage to iac i can see the plunger moving and hear the solenoid click cel comes on cold, goes away warm, car idles warm - not normally, slightly rough and under speed, but idles now what?

I hope you're kidding

had to look these up, this is the gl-5 spec without the friction modifier for lsd difs? for $45 a gallon? (my loyale pt awd takes 3.5 quarts in the gearbox)

why are these parts so damn expensive?

when my motorcycle was new it was tight and I was loose unless it starts happening all the time I'd let it go, I can't figure out if the switches being loose would let the pedal vibrate it off or if the switches being too tight would let minor movement disengage it

I thought that sounded pretty good, I'd leave it the way it is, the cut out would probably make more hassle than it's worth

sometimes when it gets below zero, you HAVE to take some of the load off the starter/battery - pushing in the clutch disengages the transmission jello from the engine jello and has made the dif between starting and not starting on several occaisions for me - never had abnormal throw out bearing issues from it - we have the same problem here as the original author, arctic air can come down unchecked through Canada and surprise us with temps as low as -38 (two years ago) we have also had -42, and -46 mornings, this year was weak - we only saw one -11 morning

my car pulls forward about two feet also, the trick around here is to hold in your clutch for a while until the engine is running smoothly in fast idle and let it out - also helps to push in the clutch when you start it up other than needing two hands to shift into 1st, once i'm rolling it isn't a problem for the gearbox to warm up - i just drive at a low speed for the first few minutes in second and let it warm sounds like I'll be trying the redline product when the outdoor temp gets up to working temperature

i just keep watching this over and over, it just sounds so unlike anything else, i sent a link to some of my gear head friends - I'm sure they'll get a kick out of it too wouldn't it just make you cry to have your audi, porsche or other smug mobile pasted by some guy in a subaru wagon? i love it

2.4 mm = .094", 12 gauge non galvanized like coxy said is slightly heavier at .104" so .080" is a little too thin, i'll have to get some scrap and see if i can work with 12 does sheet steel come in different hardnesses? what's automotive? I'm only familiar with aircraft aluminum and steel (301 cres, 1/4. and 1/2 hard) mmm I have some scrap titanium

i kind of like the Mad Max belts, power hump? show 'em off!

are you sure we're not related, this sounds like something that would happen to me

good stuff coxy, I had wondered if triangulating the strut braces might be a good idea to limit movement fore and aft, had even thought of a plate on the firewall to attach the struts to... chasing stress points can get kind of interesting I had also thought of a rear brace, but never thought to mount it to the floor, that's a great idea i'm glad you put some hard numbers in too, the material thickness had me puzzled as I haven't worked in steel or in gauges I wasn't sure what to use... I had been leaning towards .080" as the minimum doubler thickness and whatever that translated to in steel 'gauges' if I've offended anyone by semi-hijacking this thread... well, sorry. this is something I've been interested in for handling improvement and the door seemed open regards all, and 'g'day' to coxy

that kind of sounds like the time I had a cv joint go bad very quickly, it went from a light ticking noise in parking lots to completely undriveable in two days the thing that was kind of wild was that it would leap/jump/pull to the right but it was the left side that was gone

I kind of like the fact that a fair amount of folks here don't seem to feel house numbers are important... makes deliveries really interesting if i had mo' money I think I'd go a bit further out, just something on a rural road - you know, the kind of place where you could shoot off your deck during deer season and no one would complain

That's why God gave it dual 19 gallon tanks! So you only had to fill up every other day! I am agreeing with coxy, an RX would have a strong value for me - not just in terms of money. Unfortunately, RX or not, it's a non running used car with a broken turbo. $100 and I'll take it off your hands type deal... I'd really like the running gear from the transmission to the rear wheels, if the body is super clean I'd consider replacing the engine, just my ideas for my situation. send me a pm if you want, I'd like to chat, and coxy; g'day

that sounds fantastic, i ran it through my 5.1 with the sub turned up, absolutely great car, very clean and understated - till you open it up

i put xt6 seats in my 1990 Loyale, the front two bolt holes line right up, the xt track has a hole to use for the existing seatbelt bolt, (I used a longer bolt, large area washers and a bushing - that kept the seat belt in the same place and secured the third hole in the track) the fourth hole, near the door frame required a longer bolt (8mm x 85mm) and a spacer the seats are lower to the floor than the stock ea82 seats but the driver is height adjustable and has a 4 way lumbar support and they add 5% more horsepower too

i'll trade an '82 F-250 XLT for it let the bidding begin!

i like that, i was thinking of an angry bee scheme for mine too

you better snag it before I do even if i have to drive to Kelso and cruise every street looking for it

hello, i did not post here first, but jumped in because i was overly excited to find so much knowledge and free thinking i am a single dad with my third 'bu, i had a 1976 DL 1.6 that was quite possibly the most heinous car i have ever owned - if it wouldn't have had the reliability of a swiss watch i would not have kept it so long then i had a 1984 (?) GL that was the family cruiser for a few years now i have a 1990 loyale rs that i bought from my dad several years back when i needed a car and he had an 'extra', we often talked about how it needed a bit more power - viola, usmb i was an aircraft mechanic (A&P) for 12 years on commercial jets before i tried something else, i did mostly airframe work and some engine (stage III hush mod c-1 disc change and some tr work) i live in bfe and prefer an uncomplicated and quiet life, i hunt, camp, hike and spend my outdoor time with my son, who is 4 soon i hope to replace this keyboard with one that will shift for caps

mind if i crash the party? that black and white one with the white around the hatch is interesting... could someone change the white to yellow like loyale 2.7's yellow? it'd be black and yellow instead of black and white thanks

for some reason it does, my dad put ps fluid in an ea82 and it started leaking, the more it leaked the more he put in and the more it leaked .... i wiped off the cap and saw the atf label and started feeding it atf, it eventually sealed up and stopped weeping between the pump and reservoir, and the pump body halves so, clearly, there is something about the seals that need the additives in the atf

jpg 33-37 would seem to validate the idea that stability can be achieved with a strut brace, that is a very interesting web find it shows that the body must be reinforced with doublers in the area of the strut tower and the inner fender to keep the car from distorting under heavy loads that is exactly what our desert flyer needs, and he seems to have the technology to do it - outstanding documentation, very good find makes me want to try it to see what it does on regular pavement!