Txakura

That sounds kind of cool, I hope you post a pic when it is done. I kind of like the idea behind this, I thought the Swedish snow camo looked cool. That'd be a unique scheme and do-able with tape, paper (beer) and Krylon.

Which gearbox switch is which? I have three, the back up light switch on the left hand side, the neutral safety switch and the 4wd indicator switch on the right side of the case. Which of the two is the 4wd? front or back? and does it handle both the 4wd and 4 lo indicator on the dash? I'm stuck in 4lo, but it looks like it's just the linkage. I'll adjust some of the slop out of it and see what there is to see - tomorrow.

He just did a segment on Top Gear, (S13E03) which just aired on the BBC yesterday. UNREAL. Pure Suubie Porn, I'll be watching that a few times.

I just realized one major difference, I only picked up the fitting behind the oil filter. You grabbed both and used a 'T.' I think that'd be worth adding this summer so I am ready for the next ice age. I really like the pictures you took, very clear. I was snickering at your nice clean underside though, I drive gravel and dirt roads everyday... mine is not so clean! You should re-write this and submit it to the 'repair manual' section. It's a good mod for drainage, but it's also a great way to tap into the cooling system for recirculating heaters.

I followed the link you provided. Thank you very much, the FSM is the way to go. I was very pleased by the wiring diagrams in the FSM, having them in .pdf I can print a working copy to take to the car. I moved several electrical things from the 87 GL to the 90 Loyale. In all cases, there was a direct connection waiting for the component, the doors were already wired for the power mirrors - for example. I'm willing to bet that I can have my '4-lo' indicator on the dash, all the transmission switches had a place to go, it's just a question of the getting the message to the instrument panel. I have Chilton's manual, part number 8305, 'Subaru 1985-92', it does not contain ANY wiring diagrams for ANY system and offers such sage advice as 'disconnect the XXX and blah blah blah' without being bothered with details, like the location of the component. I first ran into the 'value' of this manual when I was trying to fix my power windows, then again for the cruise control and intermittent wipers. There are glaring omissions in Chilton's, and where they got their information from is not very important when the information is incomplete. Well done Numbchux, I hope you have that site up when I get to my ej conversion.

It might be worth starting to acquire the parts... you could get all the things you need and store them without taking the car out of service, sort of like a lay-away plan. Then when the last piece is ready, go about the install.

I have a Chilton's, "Subaru 1985-1992" it has ZERO diagrams in it; otherwise I wouldn't be asking. Do a quick google and you'll see that there is crappola for info out there... except for people trying to sell subscription services to their on line manuals...

that's how I tapped my re-circulating block heater into the 'lowest point' on the cooling system, nice documentation - btw-

if you want to pull that 'washer with the line in it', insert a big screwdriver blade into the line and rap on it it's a cone that is probably rusted into the seat, a smart rap or two will spread it out and it will pop off, letting you slip the hub/rotor off you can leave the 4 bolts in the hub that hold the rotor on with the caliper and bracket out of the way, you can take the dust shield off if you want to I'd leave the lower strut bolts alone, the axle on the transmission and the center strut nut, under the cap, on I would disconnect the sway bar, three strut bearing plate washers on the strut tower, outer ball joint (steering rack) and pull the lower control arm bolt with the coil spring compressed the whole assembly should drop enough to get to the top of the pile, under the strut seat to work, if it doesn't, you may have to pull the spring out of the way when you do the other side, you may want to try to work around the hub/rotor and leave them alone, same with disconnecting the strut from the bearing plate, try to drop the bearing plate with the strut connected at the top by compressing the coil spring and the strut together, the axle will allow some movement without being disconnected from the gearbox if you can work around all that crap in the way, it only involves 6 fasteners, the sway bar bolt (1), the bearing plate nuts at the strut tower under the hood (3) the lower control arm bolt (1) and the nut and cotter key off of the outer ball joint (steering rack)... I didn't count the lug nuts I'd take them in this order; rack, sway bar, (compress the spring) bearing plate nuts, lower control arm bolt I just did something like this last week

is that a clutch thing or is your linkage binding up on the wire harness connectors for the switches on the tranny? I just put a d/r in my s/r car and had to remove and re-install the wire harness... clearance is an issue on mine

Does anyone have wiring diagrams for a 90 Loyale RS or ea82 anything? I am working on the 4-lo indicator, (I retrofitted a d/r 5 into my s/r car) It would be nice to have an overview of the whole car's electrical, that seems to be some highly classified info... I paid a fee to download some diagrams a few months back, and it was kind of a rip off. Thought I'd ask the community for some help.

I guess using a less expensive shock makes more sense than modding a more expensive shock/mount or whatever... I guess what I was driving at is the possibility that the Loyale RS part may work with no modification and have identical performance.

I can relate to that, just don't have a shop to work in anymore. :-\

if the guts are the same, but the part number is different (and it is) just because of some lower mounting bolt hole... well one of the links had struts for $123 ea...and the Sachs Loyale RS strut is $50 something ea at Rock auto see where I'm going with this? If you can get two frakkin' struts for less than one, and have to do a minor mod, it'd still be worth it - and they're apparently more readily available than the RX units maybe someone in the know can get more technical about this than I can, I'm only speculating - but I'd like to see the RX owners have more options ** edit ** if it'd help anyone I will borrow a camera and take pictures of my RS front strut on the car, with the wheel off (dur) to see how it compares to an RX front **

OK, I'll ask (after looking at the links) What's the dif between the RX struts and the Loyale RS struts? The Loyale RS seems to be the identical body, and is a 4wd - so some of the parts are hd - compared to the DL/GL of the same era, and still available! I really can't imagine the dampening or travel is any different, or the upper mounting... anyone looked into that before?

Hard feelings on the Heep? Not at all. I like it for what it is, a large boxy sedan with 4 wd, it's also really easy to work on and has cheap parts. I'm not one of those guys that gets all torqued about 'Ford vs Chevy'. It's nice in a straight line, but I can 'flick' my Loyale without feeling like I'm going to roll on my roof! (You guys would have been proud of me, a week or so back I had a picture perfect drift going uphill around a corner, wet spring snow spraying off all four...) -sigh- Let's see how much more OT I can get before someone gripes!

Naaw mine is dual purpose, lifts my car too.

+1 gaskets

Note to self, don't touch oil pump.

I think the factory ea82 Subaru scissor jack is one of the best sheet metal tools ever made. Not only did I use it to open up my crushed fender on my Suubie, but I just straightened the rear bumper on my Jeep with it. I clipped the slotted jack receiver on the lower edge of the bumper and used a 4 x 4 block against the tire to push the end of the bumper away from the Jeep. Now that little rolled under end is back in true, and the end cap is sitting level - that's been annoying me since I bought it! Thanks Subaru.

I'm glad all this was written down and posted. I have two used cables and will see if I can oil them up and choose the best one for re-use.

the logos or the whole car and the logos?

Well I just did the same thing. Except I watched my pressure go sky high on a -3 F morning, and then to nothing displayed. I thought it was my sending unit, so I replaced it. It is still reading very low, no where near what it used to be. After reading this bbs, I decided that it was probably the o rings in my oil pump. I had about 215,000 on my 1.8 spfi, and that seems to be about right for the seals to fail. Maybe you should look into that too. :-\ I have used the car since, the lifters aren't clacking - but all the same, I'll be pulling the engine out for other things anyway. $.02

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