canajun2eh

Nope, no damage. Both connectors plugged in just clears the ECU memory of all stored codes.

Two possibilities come to mind: (a) Clutch release bearing ( Timing belt idler pulley bearings I've had both problems, on different engines. The clutch release bearing sounds like a turbo spinning up. The timing belt idler pulley bearings start as a low grumble, and then gradually become a whine.

Wrong. XT has an EA82 engine with all the trimmings. XT6 (ER27) is an expanded EA82, with all the trimmings too.

About 2.5 hours labour, plus cost of 16 lash adjusters. Don't know your cost for these adjusters, but figure about $40 each. You can do this work yourself. You need a 10 mm and a 12 mm socket wrench. The work is done with the engine in the car. It probably won't need all 16 to be replaced -- 2 or 3 is more usual. In fact, in some cases, only the O-ring on each adjuster needs to be replaced. They can get hard with age, thus leaking and preventing the adjuster from pumping up properly. The O-rings cost about $3 each from the dealer.

I'd suspect a failing ignition switch.

Why don't you mention this problem to the folks doing the timing belt? It might NOT be a slave cylinder problem at all. Be sure to tell them that you want them to assess the problem (not necessarily repair), and that you want them to call you before doing anything. Alternatively, tell them how much you're willing to spend before they need to call for authorization.

I don't think you need to replace those things at the first timing belt change. If you're having the work done at an authorized repair facility, the technician doing the work will check the tensioners and idler pulleys for proper operation (no noise, no binding, no looseness) and will recommend their replacement only if it's necessary. If I were doing the work (driveway mechanic), I'd never replace these things anyway. Instead, I'd replace the bearings if necessary. The bearings MIGHT need replacement at the second timing belt change.

If it still does this after you've cleaned and tightened both ends of the cables to the battery, you probably need to replace the starter.

You might have better luck on the board that's specific to XT/XT6 http://xt6.net/forum/ I think you might have a defective fuel pump. My XT/XT6 service manual, on page 3 of section 2-6, gives the following specifications. There's no difference between the XT and XT6: discharge pressure: 61-71 psi discharge flow: 25.1 US gal/hr at 43.4 psi with 12 volts input at pump You measure the discharge pressure directly at the pump, before the pressure regulator.

ECU in trunk means he's driving an XT or an XT6. Here's a link to the XT/XT6 board: http://xt6.net/forum/ The green connectors are for setting the ignition timing. You leave them disconnected unless you're trying to time the ignition. I'm not sure exactly what connecting them does. The black connectors are for reading the stored trouble codes in the ECU. Leave them disconnected also. My XT/XT6 service manual says the following on page 33 of section 2-7: The Check engine light is in the dash. The O2 monitor light is inside the ECU, visible through a hole in the case. The Read memory connectors are black, the Test mode connectors are green. Both are near the ECU. With the ignition on and both connectors disconnected, the ECU is in U-check mode. This is the normal state. Here's what the manual says about U-check mode: With the ignition on and the Read memory connector connected and the Test mode connector disconnected, the ECU is in Read memory mode. Here's what the manual says about Read memory mode: With the ignition on and the Read memory connector disconnected and the Test mode connector connected, the ECU is in D-check mode. Here's what the manual says about D-check mode: With the ignition on, engine running, and both sets of connectors connected, the ECU is in Clear memory mode. Here's what the manual says about Clear memory mode:

That "ever so slightly" movement is unavoidable. That's why I advise re-checking the alignment after the belt is properly tensioned. "Ever so slightly" isn't important. However, you must be absolutely sure that you're not out by a tooth or more. Remember that the relative position of the crank and camshafts is governed by the number of teeth in the short length of cam belt between the crank and cam sprockets. You can only adjust this position one tooth at a time, and the distance between teeth on the belt is constant.

It's bolted to the top of the intake manifold, on the right side. Follow the hoses from the charcoal canister. One of them will lead to a cube that has a second hose going to the intake manifold. There's also an electrical connection. Make sure that the hoses are properly installed and are flexible. Sometimes the heat in the engine compartment will "cure" the rubber and make the hoses stiff and brittle. Sometimes, also, the plastic of the valve body will get brittle and the nipples that the hoses push onto break. If that happens, you have to replace the valve. To check for a stuck-open purge solenoid, blow air through the hose from the charcoal canister while the engine is off. If you can blow air through, the valve is stuck open.

Do one side at a time. You can't keep the camshaft in one place when the timing hole is pointing down. Be sure to use the middle of the three scribed lines as the back of the engine. Line up marks on left (distributor) side first, and install belt. Tension belt too. Turn engine through several turns, stopping on even count and re-check the marks for this side. Correct as necessary. Turn engine through an odd number of turns, line up marks on right side, and install belt. Tension belt and then turn engine through several turns, stopping on even count and re-check the marks for the right side. Correct as necessary. Use a ratchet wrench with 22 mm socket on the crank bolt. That makes it really easy to turn the engine through the required turns (clockwise when viewed front-to-back).

A vacuum leak can do that. When checking for leaks, don't forget that the purge solenoid valve, stuck open, is also a vacuum leak. This problem won't show up in the computer trouble codes.

You might have a little more success if you post in the Australian Subaru board: http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/modules.php?name=Forums I notice a lot more older Subarus are mentioned there. That stands to reason, since Australia is a big place with NO snow, and cars consequently last a lot longer. Remember that in Australia and New Zealand they drive on the other side of the road, so driver's side is opposite to what you're used to. Use Left/Right as if you're sitting in the car. That avoids confusion and is consistent with automotive and aircraft usage.

Pick up a replacement lock from a junkyard. Key isn't needed. Year and model of donor car don't have to match, as long as it's a Loyale type. Take that replacement lock and a key from your current ignition lock to a locksmith and have the locksmith match the replacement lock to your key. That way, you don't have to mess with an ignition key that's different from your door key. You might be wise to have the locksmith cut you a new set of keys while you're at it. Some Datsun/Nissan keys fit.

Here's another one for you: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/xt6/

That clip-on lead on the starter isn't supposed to be hot. It's the "start" lead for the starter solenoid. Your symptoms sound as if the ignition switch has failed.

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Probably the purge valve stuck open.

I don't see that there would be a problem with towing the car if the owner was careful about it being in neutral for the whole trip. It's no different from coasting down a very long hill in neutral. There's nothing in the manual to say that you shouldn't do it. It sounds as if the owner cared about the car. Go for it.

I'll add my voice to the chorus. I think the US car manufacturers' reluctance to make DRLs a standard feature is simply "profit, profit, profit". DRLs might add $10 to the manufacturing costs for each car. Most people would object to paying extra for their new cars if they knew that the extra cost was due to DRLs. So, multiply that $10 by the number of cars built each year, and you end up with a large amount of lost profit. I think the DRLs could be improved even more if the tail lights were on too. That way, you wouldn't make the mistake of driving at night with no tail lights showing. What's wrong with building an auto-on feature into the system?

My 86 GL wagon had a broken wire in the driver's door harness, between the door pillar and the door itself. The insulation had cracked, and road salt got in there to rot the wire.

Please re-read the post. If you think about it, all will become obvious to you -- the required information is all there. I don't see what difficulty there is in using a ratchet wrench to turn the crankshaft several turns. It takes only a minute or two. I believe in doing the job properly the first time, without taking short-cuts.

Ummmm,..... I wouldn't do it that way, since there's a fair bit of distance between the bottom cover notch and the cam sprocket. Furthermore, it's documented by Subaru that the only camshaft position where all 4 valves are closed is the one where the timing hole lines up with the top notch of the rear cam belt cover. This is the only position where the camshaft is stable. Install the bolt into the front of the crankshaft and use a 22mm socket and a ratchet to turn the crankshaft during the procedure. I believe the absolute best way is to turn the crankshaft through several turns, stop on an even count, and re-check the alignment of the marks on the side just done. If the belt tension is off or if you've skipped a tooth (easy to do), the problem will become apparent at this stage. Next, turn the crankshaft through an odd number of turns, align the marks for the side you're about to do, install the belt, and then repeat the checking procedure for that side. Note: the hole in the cam sprocket on the side you've already done will align with the notch at the bottom of the cam cover when you're working on the other side.

There's nothing special about these bolts. You might be able to get them from your local hardware store.