canajun2eh

Open the dead clock. You'll see an area of the circuit board that's burned because a resistor is mounted too close to the board. If the resistor itself is OK (not broken), you can re-solder all the board connections nearby. Use some stiff wire to make longer legs for the resistor, and mount it about 1/4" off the board. This will provide a little air space, so that the board won't get as hot. If you mount the resistor too high, it will contact the clock case and melt that. If you have to replace the resistor, use 47 ohm 1 watt. This value isn't an exact match for what's in there, but it should work. I can't tell you about the trip computer display, but there's probably a tiny bulb soldered directly to the circuit board. You can get similar micro bulbs at Radio Shack.

I don't think it's necessary to pull the steering wheel. The switch assembly is attached by means of two screws. It will all become clear after you have removed the steering column covers.

I guess that's another difference between Canadian and US models. All Canadian GL models (GL and GL10) had power windows and power door locks.

DL didn't have power windows or power locks.

179,000 miles? Good grief! mine were hardly broken in at that mileage. I've had 3 different cars that all went to 275,000 miles (440,000 or so kilometers) before I had to do any major work other than timing belts and water pump and radiator. I wouldn't worry about ticking that comes and goes. Run with 20W50 oil in the summer, 10W40 in the fall and spring, 10W30 in the winter when it gets REALLY cold. By REALLY cold, I mean temperatures below -10F. Here's a useful thread about noisy hydraulic valve lash adjusters. You guys call them "lifters", but they don't do any "lifting" at all. http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm The author's name is Cameron Caunce and he lives in Brisbane, Australia. I just tried the link, and it didn't work. I know it was good last Wednesday. If it doesn't work for you and you need the information, please e-mail me. I can FAX you the 4 page article. Rather than worrying about valve train noise, I'd be more concerned about overheating. Take the car on a hard highway run, and watch the temperature gauge. After the hard run, let it sit and idle. Does the electic fan come on after a while, and does it keep the temperature down? The temperature gauge shouldn't go any higher than 3/4. What's the condition of the radiator fins? Are any of them loose or missing? If in doubt, replace the rad and maybe even the water pump. Water pump replacement requires access to the timing belts because two of the mounting bolts are behind the left timing belt.

Nissan parts too, especially smaller electrical ones.

O-ring at end of tube that fits into the water pump.

The piston tool is made by Lisle. Here's the link to their catalog: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=391 You don't actually need this tool, even a pair of needle-nosed pliers will do. The tool will make things easier, though. Just remember that on most Subarus, the piston is turned clockwise to retract it.

There are several heavy black wires that attach to various parts of the engine and to different places in the engine bay. These wires also feed into the engine bay wiring harness. They're all black. These are your "ground" wires. You should unbolt each ground wire from its attachment point and clean the connector and the attachment point so that they're nice and shiny. Clean each screw too. Re-attach each wire and make the screw nice and tight. If this doesn't fix your problem, make a new "ground" wire from a couple of pieces of #10 wire and suitable connectors, and connect both pieces between the engine (anyplace on the engine will do) and the car's body (anyplace). Good luck!

They're not hard to change, but good ones are expensive. You might be better off changing the air suspension to conventional struts and springs. If you're lucky, the suspension is just leaky and merely needs a complete set of O-rings. This forum http://xt6.net/forum/ is dedicated to XT/XT6 enthusiasts. You might find more information there.

The other white wire just goes to the battery, the same as the big fat one that's connected tot he screw terminal. It's for the field windings of the alternator.

Sounds like a bad ground between the engine and the body of the car. Check and clean the connections to the battery too.

It's not likely to be a fusible link, since that would have stopped the engine too. My vote goes to "bad ignition switch".

Unclip the plastic thingie from the rod, turn the plastic thingie a little bit, and then pull the rod out of the plastic thingie. You can then remove the plastic thingie from the handle assembly without difficulty. Tis is exactly the same procedure you have to use on the door locks. Basically, the plastic clip fits into a hole, the bent end of the rod fits into the plastic clip to expand the clip so that it can't come out, and then the plastic clip clips onto the long part of the rod to keep the whole works together.

I'd suspect the oil pump gaskets and seal. You DID use grease or vaseline to stick the gasket in place when you reinstalled the pump, right? Since the crankshaft seal is easy to replace and is fairly cheap, you should really replace it with a new one. Ditto for the oil pump shaft seal and the gasket. As the previous post says, accept no after-market substitutes.

The work can be done with the engine in the car. In fact, you can even pull the heads with the engine in place. I've done both several times. However, the rad and front grille should be pulled. Take an old O-ring to your parts store. They can match it. Thickness doesn't have to be exact, and diameter isn't all that critical either. When you remove the cam carriers, keep the lifters and rockers in sequence so that they can be put back into their original locations. Carefully clean the groove in the "head" side of the cam carriers. Use a razor blade scraper to clean the mating surface of the heads. Minor scratches here don't matter. Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant (use the high temperature stuff -- I prefer the copper colour) to the groove of the cam carriers. Don't apply too much, but don't leave any gaps either. Use some grease or vaseline to stick the O-ring in place and to also "glue" the rockers. This will make it a lot easier to install the cam carriers. You should consider replacing the oil pump gasket, oil pump shaft seal, and front crankshaft seal as well as the cam seals. If the water pump is "iffy", now's the time to replace it. Always replace the O-ring that seals the tube from the water pump to the rad. Inspect the little hose from the water pump to the heater input tube, and replace if it's the least bit soft. When you install the oil pump gasket, use grease or vaseline to keep it in the groove in the oil pump body. Check the timing belt idler pulleys. If they don't spin easily or if they make noise when you spin them, take them to a bearing shop and have the bearings replaced. There's no need to buy new idlers from the dealer, and getting junk yard ones is false economy. Your timing belts will be properly installed if, after having lined up the pointer at the back of the engine with the middle of the three scribed marks, one side's camshaft pulley timing hole lines up with the top notch of the rear cover while the other lines up with the bottom notch. In other words, one side points up while the other points down. When you install the valve covers, use new gaskets and also replace the cover bolt seals.

In my XT6 manual, the wiring for the EA82 model is essentially the same as in your diagram. It shows a heavy white wire going to the battery through a black fusible link, dedicated to this connection. There's a black/white wire going to a red fusible link and then to the battery. This fusible link is also the main feed into the car's electrical system, providing a "hot" connection to the battery for various electrical systems that aren't switched by the ignition switch. Lastly, there's a white/red wire that goes to the voltmeter and idiot lights. The ER27 model (with the 90 Amp alternator) has an extra very heavy white wire in addition to what's described above. This one goes to a blue fusible link and from there connects to the power steering system. --------- If your GM alternator is "self exciting", the one wire that plugs into the unit is probably for the idiot light. I would be a little concerned that the standard Subaru wiring isn't heavy enough to handle the full output of your 105 Amp GM alternator. You might want to replace the white wire with a heavier direct connection to the battery, protected by a 100 Amp fuse or two 50 Amp fuses in parallel. If you do this, pull the black fusible link to disconnect the white wire from the battery. When you try to work up an unusual fuse rating, you connect fuses in parallel, and add the fuse ratings. Fusible links are very slow-blow fuses, made of wire. They're basically a deliberate weak point in the car's electrical system, designed to melt at a pre-determined current depending on the diameter of the wire used. Fuses do the same thing, except that they are made of metal that will melt a lot faster.

I'd like to jump in here with my 2 cents' worth: (Canadian 2 cents, by the way) Aren't there two different types of 2.5 liter Subaru engines? The type that has two camshafts on each side (4 in total) is definitely an "interference" engine. The type that has only one camshaft on each side (like the 2.2 liter engine) is not. Personally, I don't think I'd waste my money repairing an engine with bent valves (the "interference" type). Instead, I'd buy a replacement engine from a reputable engine rebuilder. CCR Inc. in Colorado seems to have the best reputation in this field.

Been there, done that, both methods. I strongly recommend the bumper method. It's a LOT easier to get at the electrical connectors and eveything else when the bumper is out of the way.

Please clue me in: Why use an "underdrive" pulley? What's the advantage?

It sounds as if the AC compressor is seized. You can disable the compressor by unplugging it. The AC pulley runs all the time, but is disengaged from the compressor by a magnetically operated clutch. When power is applied to the magnetic clutch, the compressor is connected to the pulley. Therefore, by unplugging the compressor, you prevent the magnetic clutch from engaging. Thus: "no drive to the compressor".

Yup, I'm one (by choice, not by birth). I've been a satisfied (more or less) Subaru owner since 1986. The only unsatisfactory Subaru I've owned is a 95 Legacy Brighton wagon, which I bought used a year ago last November. I unloaded it in a trade on a new Legacy sedan just last week. I made the dealer who sold me that Brighton feel REAL bad! What a piece of s..t. I wish Legacy sedans were available in manual transmission here in North America.

I'd just go to a junk yard and pull a couple of Subaru relays and a suitable mounting bracket. Look under the instrument cluster (near the steering wheel) of any EA82 model. The problem with Radio Shack is that you'd have to be sure to get one with contacts rated for at least 5 amps. That's not a problem with Subaru relays -- they're good for at least 20 amps. Also, wiring and mounting a Radio Shack relay would be a bit of a problem. Wiring isn't hard -- just use standard tab connectors. The only "extra" wiring you'd see when using two relays as opposed to a single double-pole one is that you need to wire the two relay coils in parallel. Thus, two extra wires, leading from the first relay to the second. I wouldn't bother using factory connectors with the Subaru relays. They don't really add anything, and you'd still have to splice your wiring to the connectors. In fact, I think this would make the job look bad, and you'd have more points of failure.

Why not use a double-pole push button or a double-pole relay? You need to wire things up so that two extra wires run to the window motor. Under normal conditions, these wires aren't connected to anything else. When the button is pushed (or the relay engaged), one of the wires leading to the window motor is connected to the hot side of the battery and the other to ground. Wire things up so that the motor rolls the window down. If you don't have a double-pole relay and you want use old Subaru ones, just use two of them, one controlling "hot" and the other controlling "ground". If you want to use relays (one doule-pole relay or two single-pole ones), wire one side of the relay coil to battery hot, and the other to that push-button. The other side of the push-button goes to ground. I'd advise you to use a fuse (10 amp is plenty) to protect the wiring from battery "hot" to the relay coil(s) and the side of the relay that, when engaged, feeds the window motor. Fuse the input side of the relay. You can use the same fuse for both functions.

Sounds more like a brake pad rubbing on the disk. Check the brake pads, and maybe clean the dust off the brakes. In general, I wouldn't worry too much about a little noise like that.