canajun2eh

The 135 Hp specification is for the 6-cylinder XT6. The 4-banger XT has similar specs to the rest of the EA82 engine series. I've heard of people transplanting the ER27 (XT6) engine to replace an EA82. I think the amount of surgery required is very high. You can use the block, heads, cams from an XT in your GL10. They're the same. However, you need to retain the intake manifold, etc. since the XT versions are different. If your GL10 is currently a turbo, be sure that the XT donor car is also turbo. The XT might have a different accessory belt system (ribbed vs. V-belt), so you may need to use the stuff at the front of the block (water pump, crank pulley, tensioner, alternator, PS pump, AC compressor) from your GL10. They'll fit. You can use a turbo donor engine in a non-turbo car, but the performance will be somewhat less. In this case, you need to plug a few oil and coolant connections that won't be needed for the non-existent turbo.

I'd start with the Weber specification. You tell us that their specification is 1 to 5 PSI, and never more than 5. This means that the carburetor will malfunction if the pressure should exceed 5 PSI. I think this would mean that the fuel shutoff valve in the float chamber will not work properly at higher fuel pressures, causing flooding. Therefore: 4 PSI should be OK. I wouldn't go any higher. There's no reason why you can't put that fuel filter near the carb. That would make it easy to clean or replace the element. It would also ensure that any rust that might be in the existing fuel lines would be properly trapped by the filter. I would install the new fuel pump where the original one is: under the car, near the fuel tank. That way, you can be sure that it will prime properly. Get rid of the filter and pressure regulator that are in the existing fuel line near the pump. You should be able to use the existing wiring -- cut off the wire at the fuel pump so that you can use its connector for the new pump.

OK, I'm partially wrong. There are two belts. The principle is the same, though. You need to loosen a nut so that the adjuster bolt can be turned. In the case of the alternator belt, the nut is near the alternator and is part of the alternator mount. In the case of the AC belt, the nut is on the face of the idler pulley.

Hmm, .... I thought all Legacy/Outback/Forester/etc. used the same accessory belt system, and there was only one. If I'm right, the following thread will explain: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25904

Right. However, if he's going to replace the heater core, the whole thing will have to come out. Removing the entire dash isn't as hard as it sounds. After several practice runs, I can now do it in about an hour.

3 bolts under the cover plates below the windshield. You can remove the dash if you lower the steering wheel completely and if the steering column covers are removed. However, it's much easier if the steering wheel is removed too. The centre console has to come out.

Do what the manual says. When you separate the engine from the transmission, you need to jack up the engine slightly. This isn't possible if the pitching stopper is installed. You also can't get the engine off the engine mounts when the pitching stopper is in place. (In reality, it's another engine mount.)

Loosen the nut on the face of the idler pulley. (IMPORTANT) You don't need to remove the nut -- just loosen it. Look above the idler pulley, you'll see a bolt head. The bolt points toward the ground at a slight angle from vertical. You turn this bolt to move the idler pulley. This changes the tension on the accessory belt. When the accessory belt is at the correct tension, tighten the nut on the face of the idler pulley. This will lock the nut that travels along the adjusting bolt when you turn the bolt. The idler pulley shaft is part of this travelling nut. I hope this is clear enough.

I agree. If you remove the dowels, you'll be relying on the head bolts to align the gasket and the head with the block. I think there's too much clearance in the head bolt holes to provide the required accuracy. Better to enlarge the dowel holes in the gasket or to make new ones if they're missing. If they're missing, are you sure the gaskets are facing the right way? Again, you need to be precise in the amount of enlargement. Use a drill to enlarge the dowel holes or to make new ones. If you're making new dowel holes, start with a fairly small drill diameter and gradually work up to the correct size. You need to make sure that the new head gaskets fit properly and that none of the material projects into the combustion chamber.

I was helping a friend fix the engine in his 4-cylinder non-turbo XT. We put the left cylinder head on (new head gaskets, of course), and got it all nicely torqued and everything. THEN we discovered that the sparkplug hole right near the distributor is royally messed up. Couldn't get the plug in at all. In order to re-tap the plug hole properly, you need to tap from the cylinder side of the head, because that's where the good threads are. Therefore, "off with the head!" The question is, "Can we get away with not replacing the almost-new head gasket?" Consider that the head was under full torque-down for no more than an hour, and the engine has not been run (obviously). I'm not asking for advice on what to do about the messed-up plug threads -- I'm already aware of my options. This question is also being posted on the XT6 board.

Germany, actually. Check the lettering on the back of the tanker truck. Too bad this car was massacred. It was repairable.

I'd suspect the coil. Before replacing the coil, make sure that the coil's tower is clean. Try running the car in the dark, to see if there's any high-voltage arcing.

Replace the filter. Use only the Subaru one. I'd also use 10W40 oil in that engine. Get Quaker State at Canadian Tire. Use 20W50 in the summer. On my Subarus, (I've had 4 that all went over 400,000 km), lifter ticking occurred only when it was time for an oil change. I always changed the filter at the same time. None of them ever needed work on the oil pump.

One of my XT6 struts was giving trouble with the height sensor. It turned out that all 4 wires were broken right at the gland nut, where they come out of the strut. Can't say how that happened. I was thinking of having a local welding shop cut the top off two bad struts (one with the broken wires & good bag, the other with good wires and blown bag) to make one good strut. Should be do-able.

Removal isn't a big problem. Just give them a little whack on the end with a hammer. Apply WD40. Ease them out. This means, turn them out a little, turn them in a little, turn them out a little more, turn them in, repeat. Always replace exhaust studs with new ones. Yesterday, I only paid $2.08 Canadian each, from a fastener supply place. The nuts are stainless steel. If in doubt, replace them too. Always apply lots of anti-seize compound after the nuts have been tightened.

Right. The ER27 engine is basically an MPFI EA82 with two more cylinders tacked on the end. That's why the pistons, connecting rods, hydraulic valve lash adjusters, etc. are the same. The front looks very similar too, but some of the running gear has been beefed up.

You didn't mention changing the oil filter. Whenever I had this problem, it was always a sign that the oil filter needed changing. Use only the Subaru one, from your dealer. I would also try heavier oil. Quaker State 10W40 (get at Canadian Tire) should be OK. On my high-mileage cars (I had 4 that all went over 400,000 km), I used that oil in the winter, and switched to 20W50 for the other seasons. Never had any starting problems. I believe Calgary weather doesn't get quite as cold as it does here in Ottawa, although it's more unpredictable. If you're going to tear into the engine again, check this information: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm The guy's name is Cameron Caunce, and he's in Brisbane, Australia. Good luck.

The compressor will turn off after 10 minutes. That should prevent damage from running too long.

I think I might have led you astray -- I'm active not only in the USMB, but also in the XT6 board. http://xt6.net/forum/ I think my air suspension posts can be found in the XT6 board. Good luck. At least, you know that the compressor is working and that its power supply is good. You also know that the connections to the compressor are working. This leaves the control circuit.

Start by checking the compressor. The compressor relay is mounted to the driver's strut tower (in the engine compartment). It's covered with a rubber boot. Pull the connector off the relay. You'll see two thick wires and two thin wires. Using a piece of wire, connect the two thick wires together. If the compressor now runs (even with the ignition switch off), the compressor and its power supply are OK. If the compressor doesn't run, you might just have a blown fuse. Search for other posts by me. One of them goes into great detail on checking the air suspension. Search, and you shall find.

The correct tool has a long rod with the end bent into the shape of an L. The foot of that bend fits trough the wrist pin and hooks it on the inside of the engine. A heavy piece of hollow stock slides onto the long leg of that L, and is kept on that leg by a washer and nut threaded on. Other methods of keeping the hollow stock on that long part of the tool will work too. For example, another bend. The hollow stock could be a piece of iron pipe. You hook the end of the tool on the inside of the wrist pin, and then slide the hollow stock on the tool shaft/leg. The action is like a hammer striking the keeper. This is a "slide hammer". Keep your fingers out of the way of the slider! I hope this helps.

You don't need the oil pan gasket. The seal between the head and the cam carrier is made from a bead of high-temperature silicone sealant. You'd be wise to replace the O-ring that fits on the end of the water tube from the water pump to the upper rad hose. You should also replace the small bent hose from the top of the water pump to the heater inlet tube.

Yes, provided the number of doors is the same (naturally). The doors for the 3-door hatchback aren't the same as those for the 4-door sedan. However, sedan and station wagon doors are the same.

You're in the wrong forum. You need to take the door panels off, and lubricate the window regulator mechanisms. There's a severe case of rust in there. Use WD40.

You're right. Potsdam isn't far from here -- just a pleasant day trip. My XT6 isn't licensed right now. It's still parked in my garage, waiting to have some air suspension issues sorted out, and to have a couple of holes in the trunk fixed. It also has several rust holes just below the windshield that need to be fixed. The car won't pass a safety inspection without these repairs. I'll get it on the road next spring. There's another XT6 owner here in town. His car is working -- I fixed his air suspension for him, along with the power steering and a few other minor issues. It just needed a front strut and a set of air line O-rings. His car originally came from NYC, so it doesn't have the adjustable height control mine has.