rpholz

got some stuff in for it. adding the oil cooler and oil pressure sender then hitting the dyno again. maybe by tomorrow if not certainly by the weekend

"I extended the mount about 1 inch outward for the XT6 control arm to fit into it still" do you have a pic? i can't picture what your describing what strut/ knuckle are you using? i am currently fulling around with the tuning untill it runs smoothly. i really want my boss to step in, do some magic and 20 mins later it be making power(cause that's typically how it goes, stage 2 wrx? 3 pulls, done. runs perfect) but i need there to be zero issues before hand, so im working all the kinks out. cfm? no idea, it was laying around and cheap. better than no fan. o-ring? LOL! nooooope, WJM put this motor together many moons ago and obviously i can't ask him, if i had to guess, carbed block, new gen 3 heads, way overtorqued to the point that its about to rip the threads out. annnnnnnnnd thats it. only thing ive done is put new plugs in. the temp isnt really concerning me. its either really hot oil, shitty thermostat or too much coolant and not enough water. hell i dont even know what the water pump looks like. i really dont care to be honest, its pittly stuff to work through and not a major concern. coolant comes right back down to 180s after a pull. heres a graph to show you what its doing. eventually itll either work or ill get fed up and drop a 257 crank in this phase 2 ej22 i have laying around, slap a vf52 to the back of it and let it eat. I've really learned to not get bent out of shape with these cars, I realize what i'm doing is not supported by most and im ok with that, i wont loose sleep over a broken ea82

The wrx rad won't fit BTW. Your better off to try a brz rad which I think Nico used. I'd buy a koyo and use the expansion tank to fill the engine as a rad cap is not needed. The coolant port off to the pass side would need to be added.. It's hard to describe this via internetz as I don't know your level of knowledge

Front suspension is 08 wrx JIC coil over with 02-07 camber/caster plates, 04 wrx hub, spindle, ball joint, outer tie rod. My custom control arm, manual ea82 rack/inner tie rod. You'll have to enlarge the holes for the tophat to fit Fans are stock electric plus a 12" mishimoto that you can see in one of the pics. It has two m6 bolts in the top and a bent piece of aluminum snugging it against the rad on the bottom 130 is crap. The motor can do more but it's the choppyness that I'm working through. My boss/friend/shop owner/tuner says it looks like its loosing spark, hence the coil pack. I haven't had the chance to redyno since the change but I will say it went almost a full point leaner with no other changes. Need to wire a oil pressure sender so that if it pitches the drivers belt the haltech will stop the engine.

Changed some stuff around. Now running wasted spark, dyno is showing the weird spoob it is doing before I got annoyed and changed the ignition

130/130 on 6psi It's too loud to keep running it though

Getting the car sorted out. Seems to run out of steam around 4k rpms so I bought a faster charging coil and we will see how that goes Also did a compression check 155-165 on a mildly warm engine. With all these 20psi untuned pulls I'm not sure how the failure rate is so high?

I'd go f150 pump Does it have vacuum/boost leaks? Is it in time? What's your base timing? Compression/leakdown? How are you certain it's fuel related? Are there any misfires on any particular cylinder? Have you checked the plugs? 90k doesn't mean squat when it's 30+ years old

Got the boost under control Needs more fans, it's staying at 200-207℉ after ripping a pull and sitting in the parking lot. Comes down immediately once moving Also needs way more timing, 17psi is slow as spoob.

Data log shows a peek of 19.4@3800rpm with a a/F of 9.9 lol, looks like I had it fat enough. Boost control is gm I'm pretty sure, it was bolted to the front of a Borg Warner efr I installed that the customer didn't want. And no, Idk if I have it hooked up right or not. I'll likely do straight wastegate for now. Sidenote it started hitting boost by 1800rpm

' something tells me my boost control isnt working

Worked

Also if any one feels like trying these I'm pretty sure they will work and retain 12x1.25 threads, I bought Honda ones so they are 1.5......Meh I'm not picky http://m.ebay.com/itm/121447402661?_mwBanner=1

A 45 tire might be too short. I need to see diameter on that Studs showed up Might have time to fit them tomorrow

Legacy A2W FTW

Errrr, maybe I ment 8s in the rear. I doubt they will get that hot Not really concerned about daily application as I've had 8's and 10's on cars I've driven every day. In fact the 8's did great on my old GF, I did start to bake them by the end of the Dragon

I'm a big advocate of proper wheel torque to prevent stud issues Brakes? Yea rs 2 pots up front with carbotech xp10s once I figure out what I'm running in the rear I'll likely run xp10s or 12s there Starting to look like I'll either run the Honda or Nissan calipers as I need a parking brake to pass inspection

got a turbo adapter roughed in, need to get it welded and cleaned up

pretty sure someone did the same thing a couple years ago and i wasn't fond of the idea, not saying it won't work or won't be solid, i just didnt like it. however im pretty sure i've found extended wheel studs

Yes. It is the rotary rx, it seems a bit sacrilegious but I can't express just how poorly it was swapped. There's a reason I cut the entire front end off

Toe plates and a camber gauge for now. I'm not trailering it for an alignment and I'm pretty confident in doing it without a rack till it's off the dyno and fully tuned

she's got a wing again! front end is mostly sorted, broken brake line replaced and now has brakes.

^not sure if that compliment was for me or Chux. subaru bits: Chux! toe will be non issue, this is with both wheels pointed foward... i think? toe adjusted alllllll the way in

That sounds like a huge pain in the rump roast