kerandt

Did you get your oil pressure back? Should be the longer wire you held in the video. On my GL it runs down along the dip stick to the oil sender unit. You probably just forgot you unplugged it? You're almost there! How's it feel?

Howdy desertsubaru. Some thick grease dabbed in the holes of the arms works well too. Hey whatever works right? Guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.

On second thought the connections on the pumps are different. FI being smaller. So not likely they put on the wrong pump. But a pressure regulator could be to blame. So it looks like you will need to test the fuel pressure. Have you tried spraying starter fluid in the intake just to rule out no fuel as being the problem?

Hey MilesAway1980. Did you install the new fuel pump? Just wondering if a carb pump got put on instead of a FI one as the pressure requirements would be different.

Ahhh, the Trans Dapt 2107 . . . very nice. Just remember to get the short air filter as it is a tight fit closing the hood with the carb lifted.

That's areal bummer. Sorry to hear that. I'm glad everyone is ok though . . that's all that matters right?

Hi One Eye. You mentioned timing at 8*in the original post. Correct me if I'm wrong aren't EA-82's 20 degrees and EA-81's 8 degrees?

Is this what you mean (photo)? 10mm locks 12mm on clutch cable. 14mm bottom nut to hillholder.

Hey Moosen. Have you read this by chance? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206

Sorry, the fuel pump is under the car, rear passenger side. Look for the mounting plate the pump sits on. Filter should by right next to it. Can't remember which side of pump, it's been awhile. Good luck!

Look underneath by your fuel pump.

Interesting stuff. I have that "re-route kit" on my '93 Loyale and all this time I thought that was the factory set-up? Anyways the blue tee, although the same diameter as the black one, is necked down inside to about 1/4", in the middle where the 90 degree "T" is (f this makes sense). I guess that would be the "orifice" referred to. -Keith

Have you done a good pressure wash to clean things up? Might allow you to narrow done where that leak is? How is your cv boot on that side? You can do the easy stuff like valve covers, front seals with the motor in. Of course most would do these, plus the oil pump and water pump, with the timing belts. Sounds like you just need to keep "tinkering" and get to know things a little bit. Your code 35 is pretty common too. It's an emissions thing and shouldn't effect how the car runs. Hope this help.

I don't regret leaving mine off. How often do you pressure wash your engine? I maybe wash mine 2-3 times a year. I'm actually surprised how clean the belts stay (without the covers). I just like being able to see and inspect things without having to deal with the whole cover deal. -Keith

I ended up putting a used one on my Loyale (SPFI) for $40. Knock on wood, it's still going. I also bought a new replacement for my '87 wagon from Napa. It was around $60-70? But it is a carbed Ea82. Not sure about the pressure differences. I have read a few links about guys using a pump from? Say a F-150? Modified to fit of course.

Greetings Bobaloui. I think everyone who has had a car with that motor has experienced TOD (tick of death) as it is sometimes called. On my '93 Loyale it seemed to come on around 170k miles. At first it was my indicator to add a little oil and then it usually went away. Eventually I went to 10w-40 instead of 10w30. I also ran a 1/2 qt of transmission fluid in the motor for a short easy drive before a couple oil changes thinking it would "clean" things out a bit? Not totally convinced that did anything. Eventually did the front seals and oil pump o-ring with the last timing belts. Ticking sound on the passenger side still comes back, not steady, but off and on. I'm now at 211k and have gotten use to it. I don't know what kind of miles yours has or what you paid for it? For me I can only do so much to a $450 car. Good luck with the Loyale. And welcome to the board!

I'm interested in the front brush guard. Don't know what you'd want for it? Shipped to Missoula, MT 59801. Thanks Keith

'84 GL wagon, 196K '87 GL wagon, 152K '93 Loyale wagon 197K

Good advice here. You might also try using a thicker oil too, that helped quiet mine quite a bit.

Don't know what year you have, but most I've dealt with are very easy to remove.

Hey! I believe we have the same car! When you say the white smoke came pouring out, just from under the hood? What about out of the exhaust? Or how does the motor oil look? (cause anti-freeze in there is bad). I'm no expert on these cars. Thought I'd reply since no one else had. But I would have changed all the (coolant) hoses if any even look questionable. It's cheap. Look closely at things and try and pin down the leak.

84 GL Wagon 5spd 4WD D/R EA-81 676332 Manufactured 10/83 Vin: JF2 AM53B8 EE415162

Awesome advice. Going to look it those corrosion fighters. Still thinking a blow torch is what I will need though. Ordered "Subaru" exhaust gaskets today (should be here Monday from Portland). And bought the biggest brass drift Napa had. Haven't had much time to deal with the axle any more but will. GD- I just threaded the existing hole and added the one bolt with a nut. The difference is night and day. Adios amigos!

I had to look pretty hard to find a set here in Missoula. At least a set that would work on my Loyale. Take note that there are differences between some depending what year they came on. The 4-hole pattern may be the same but the shallower rims (early '80's pinch the front brake calipers on the EA-82 cars (or some). The "Subaru of the 80s" page has the diagram showing the clearence differences. I think there are others like myself who'd like at least one set. Cheers!

Hi all! Went and picked up a 2nd Gen wagon. I've wanted one for awhile but just haven't had the means (know what I mean?). Anyways, it's a real beater. 192K. It has the 4 speed dual range. Still learning the ins and outs (I'm a Loyale owner). Runs and drives as is, but could definately use a lot of tinkering. Just sticking to the basics here. First thing I did was change the oil and use GD's shifter/linkage fix to rid some of the slop. VERY NICE! Today I changed out the manifold gaskets. PO had a new pair of Felpro in the car so I used them. They didn't have the stud flange like the old ones. These are basicly a carboard circle. So I just lined 'em up free hand as best I could. Should I have used some high temp goop here? I didn't. Bolts stayed in on one side, came out on the other. Right now I'm trying to get the rear left axle out because it has a blown outer boot. I can't get the half shaft to budge off the axle stubs (either one). Both spring pins are out. The shaft itself moves between the joints. I'm thinking of heating the outside portion, right where the spring pin holes are. I only have the small propane bottle so not much heat there. And it was windy enough it kept blowing out. Would it be dumb to drive it around a bit without the pins in the axle to see if it breaks loose? I've been spraying everything real good with PB blaster too. Hey sorry about the novel. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.