
kerandt
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Everything posted by kerandt
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Good advice here. You might also try using a thicker oil too, that helped quiet mine quite a bit.
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How Difficult Is It to Remove GL Grille?
kerandt replied to Subarule's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Don't know what year you have, but most I've dealt with are very easy to remove. -
Hey! I believe we have the same car! When you say the white smoke came pouring out, just from under the hood? What about out of the exhaust? Or how does the motor oil look? (cause anti-freeze in there is bad). I'm no expert on these cars. Thought I'd reply since no one else had. But I would have changed all the (coolant) hoses if any even look questionable. It's cheap. Look closely at things and try and pin down the leak.
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84 GL Wagon 5spd 4WD D/R EA-81 676332 Manufactured 10/83 Vin: JF2 AM53B8 EE415162
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Awesome advice. Going to look it those corrosion fighters. Still thinking a blow torch is what I will need though. Ordered "Subaru" exhaust gaskets today (should be here Monday from Portland). And bought the biggest brass drift Napa had. Haven't had much time to deal with the axle any more but will. GD- I just threaded the existing hole and added the one bolt with a nut. The difference is night and day. Adios amigos!
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I had to look pretty hard to find a set here in Missoula. At least a set that would work on my Loyale. Take note that there are differences between some depending what year they came on. The 4-hole pattern may be the same but the shallower rims (early '80's pinch the front brake calipers on the EA-82 cars (or some). The "Subaru of the 80s" page has the diagram showing the clearence differences. I think there are others like myself who'd like at least one set. Cheers!
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Hi all! Went and picked up a 2nd Gen wagon. I've wanted one for awhile but just haven't had the means (know what I mean?). Anyways, it's a real beater. 192K. It has the 4 speed dual range. Still learning the ins and outs (I'm a Loyale owner). Runs and drives as is, but could definately use a lot of tinkering. Just sticking to the basics here. First thing I did was change the oil and use GD's shifter/linkage fix to rid some of the slop. VERY NICE! Today I changed out the manifold gaskets. PO had a new pair of Felpro in the car so I used them. They didn't have the stud flange like the old ones. These are basicly a carboard circle. So I just lined 'em up free hand as best I could. Should I have used some high temp goop here? I didn't. Bolts stayed in on one side, came out on the other. Right now I'm trying to get the rear left axle out because it has a blown outer boot. I can't get the half shaft to budge off the axle stubs (either one). Both spring pins are out. The shaft itself moves between the joints. I'm thinking of heating the outside portion, right where the spring pin holes are. I only have the small propane bottle so not much heat there. And it was windy enough it kept blowing out. Would it be dumb to drive it around a bit without the pins in the axle to see if it breaks loose? I've been spraying everything real good with PB blaster too. Hey sorry about the novel. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.
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1994 Loyale touch up paint
kerandt replied to solakian's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I had the same issue with my '93 Loyale. Same paint code 09. I ended up buying some cans of Dupli-color and experimenting. "Medium Garnet Red" cap matches, but don't use it. Too brite for mine when dry. "Bordeaux Red" ended up being the closets match I could find. Dupli-color list it as a Honda color and one called "Mica Ruby" as a OEM for Subaru. Check it out; https://www.duplicolor.com/color_selection.pdf Maybe O'Reilly didn't have that one when I looked? Hope this helps. The Bordeaux color is actually very very close. -
Help with 1988 EA82 wagon
kerandt replied to methusalah's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I see. Researching. I'm not real experienced here, but would tell you to first look at the timing belts. Peak through the plastic covers. Or pull the cap off the distributor (see if it is spinning when trying to start)(drivers side timing belt controls this). There are rubber plugs in the belt covers too, but with a 10mm wrench / screwdriver it's not hard to peek in there. The starting fluid in the intake could tell you if there is a fuel delivery issue? And keep searching. Lots of similar threads of what others have gone though (with EA-82 not wanting to start). Hope this helps. -
Help with 1988 EA82 wagon
kerandt replied to methusalah's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
What have you narrowed down so far? Looked at the timing belts? Distributor moving? Can you hear the fuel pump cycling? Tried starting fluid? Lets see what else . . .? -
And Then The Lights Went Out
kerandt replied to The Dude Abides's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Man . . .that's really something. I've nailed myself in the face doing some of the oddest things. Never while working on a car though. Did you have a sense or strange feeling something was about to happen just seconds before? -
Have a '91 Loyale and also a '93. Both have fuel pumps that are quite audible. The '93 had a bad pump when I got it. Sometimes It would start and other times it wouldn't. I ended up just getting another used one off of Craigslist. Seems someone is always parting out a Soob. They're easy to get and easy to change. Might just see how long it lasts and carry a spare?
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Hey that's pretty cool. Wish I could find an ole Brat for 200 bucks. This site is a great resource. Welcome aboard.
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I am replacing Timing belts and Tensioners!
kerandt replied to Bandit987's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Good deal. I'm actually replacing the timing belts, seals and oil pump right now for the first time. I opted to go with out the covers. I stay on the clean black top for the most part. Good luck on the project -
I am replacing Timing belts and Tensioners!
kerandt replied to Bandit987's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Mind me asking what you had to pay? -
Man that's a lot of Subaru's to go through. I'm only on #3. Nice page.
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That sounds like a fun trip. I live in Missoula, MT if you have any problems passing through. I'll send over my #. We are actually planning a trip ourselves (to Moab)(next week) in the station wagon (Loyale). I'm trying to be prepared "for the worst" as well. Have extra timing belts, radiator hoses, seals & gaskets, oil, my small tool collection. What else? Anyways good luck on your adventure! -Keith
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Caution: Lengthy EA-82 / Timing / POST
kerandt replied to kerandt's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks guys. I will do more tinkering. It's running pretty good right now though. -
just died driving down the 45mph
kerandt replied to DFA's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have a Chilton's and then also a set of service manuals by Subaru, but will mention that this site is your best resource by far. This site is a gold mine of information if one only takes the time to dig. I also recommend watching The Art of Subaru Maintenance on Youtube.com (thanks Miles!). It really helped me visualize some of the key steps. Here's one to start with. Also the one timing belt procedure; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 -
Caution: Lengthy EA-82 / Timing / POST
kerandt replied to kerandt's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yes, the only one that comes up is 34, which I believe is the EGR? Was that way when I got the car. I do get 5 blinks before plugging the connectors together but that's normal right? -
Loyale Hissy My third Subaru I have owned is a '93 Loyale, w/ 5-SPD push button 4WD, SPFI wagon and love it. But on the way home last night it started acting up. Cruising through town (30 MPH) I noticed a sudden power loss. Kind of a strange bog sensation. I bee lined it (slowly) home fearing I might not make it. Luckily I only had to come to a complete stop at one light, and to my relief it idled decent and resumed movement on it's own, but it was like it didn't want to go over 2K (pumping the petal) and just real gutless. Then I remembered reading a post or two on how sometimes a timing belt would slack up and jump a tooth and throw the timing off. It seemed logical? So after babying the thing home I jumped on the web to do some more brain storming (USMB of course) and came up with a priority list of what I would check the following day. (Fluids, temp, all good tonight!) *Timing belt condition and position *Check engine codes *Vac lines, Plugs & wires *Clean MAF (& all connections) *Change fuel pump (It's a noisy used one) *Possible plugged CAT? *Seafoam (Everything!) Day One (2/15/2010) Visual inspection of hoses and connections. Everything seems o.k. here. Went on to checking the timing with the light, got the green connectors, yup. (I had done this once before) and this time it was showing the timing to be 10 degrees or so. It definitely wasn't at 20 like I had seen the time before. Took the fans off to get outside belt covers off. Started manual engine rotation and inspection. To my surprise every thing seems cool here too. Double checked it a couple of times. Yup. Driver's straight up, other cam straight down (180 from each). Decided the distributor had to get a look over. So I labeled the wires. Removed the cap first. Then the whole thing. Cleaned it . Visual inspection; Rotor good and secure. Inside clean and free of debris. Put it every thing back together so I could try and start it. Monkeyed around a bit trying to get the damn thing to start. Had to go back to USMB to get it back together right (I love this site!). I keep trying to install the dist.at the 3 tic marks and not 0 degrees Oops,(have to remember that). Finally got it to start. Was about to give up, you have no idea. Idles good. I was surprised though I had to max the ditsy all the way counterclockwise (I think) in order to get it to 20 degrees with the light. At first glance I actually could not see any of the timing marks (just staring at the rusty flywheel flicker) I know I have it on the #1 wire. Light set at 0 Advance. Anyways, even after one drive around the block, running much better than last night, I decided to still try it with the dist. set half way or so (set back clock-wise) and no no it had a real bad pinging so move it back (max left). Tonight Took a short drive and seems to be back to normal? TOD (ticking is slowly getting worse but will still go away after the motor is good and warm. Might try a thicker oil? I did notice the engine seems to make more of a subtle whine much like a turbo would make. Perhaps It's the accessory belts, I did tighten them about as much as I could. Will continue to do some tinkering. I'm still a little dumb-founded? I still don't understand really what happened. Pavements dry / nothing wet. Maybe somethings on it's way out? Anyways. Comments, questions? Thanks for looking.
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This thread might help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918&highlight=trouble+codes
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1992 Loyale won't start...
kerandt replied to capecove's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I would definitely do the starter fluid test. I just bought a '93 Loyale SPFI that more or less had the same symptoms. It ended up being the fuel pump. Each time you turn the key on you should be able to hear it under the rear passenger side pressure up. If not try tapping on it. Good luck. -
The car has had some service recently. Not long before it started acting up. New alternator, some belts, oil change and it looked like a brand new fuel filter too. Maybe they got something in the fuel line?