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What is a CTS?

How low is low?

good I will check the parking brake level which I think has a lock nut on it? I just ordered $250 worth of suspension parts from Rock Auto it was shipped pretty fast!

I looked around and I thought when the injector was leaking it was just time to have it replaced? I have to try that kit that you listed. *edit does this kit go in-line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail?

the fuel lines should hold pressure overnight? Any links to a fuel injector kit I something I should be looking for?

it's harder to describe it but if my car sits for 12 hours or more and I start it I get this rough ragged sounded idle which then builds then it runs normal after 20 or so seconds. When the car is warm i.e. going to the food store and jumping back in the car the car will go 900-500-800-750 rpms then idles at around 750. I've cleaned the idle air controller but this is bugging the crap out of me because I can't pinpoint why it does this I'd say it's worst when it's colder out. One person said it might be a injector leaking? here is a sound clip STE-010.mp3 motor has 217K and the timing belt was done about 9K miles ago

I was looking at my haynes manual and I noticed where I hear the clicking at behind the glovebox area is what they list in the book as a "door lock timer"

24Lbs or more will turn the light off because it thinks a passenger is in the seat. would you have a $500 airbag go off in a empty passenger seat in a crash and make a $500 repair $1000?

speaking about a manual and e-brake I did not want to make a topic but In neural and on a small hill like1-2% if the e-brake is up should the car move backwards? And yes I've adjusted the brake shoes the star wheel wont move anymore because the pads are already close to the wheel. but I notice with the rear passenger side with the rear jacked up and e-brake on the rear passenger wheel will move about 1/4" with the e-brake on fully.. I doubt this is normal I'm thinking the pads are cheap or been driven with it on or what? It was like this when I brought the car last near. It seems next to impossible to find aftermarket replacement pads since all the ones I see are for the cars with rear drums which I don't have.

I brought my Legacy for $400 private sell from a listing I saw on cragislist funny thing was a friend told me to check it out like a day before it's been almost a year now since I had it.

so subaru can fix it and say they made a bad car?

yeah that's pretty much how I feel I mean we have 2 filters for the fuel anyways.

the JDM headlight is not glass only the projector lens is.. aso the bluetinted silverstars don't last long the oran silverstars are better.

and why not

they will blind unless you fix the pattern and I don't mean trying to adjust them to the full length they can move.. I removed mine and sanded down the cutoff and made one for a LHD car. I've never been flashed once and that's almost a year I've had my car and 12 hour multi-state road trips.

I've noticed in my Legacy the light came on but when it gets lower it tends to go out.. and when it's colder I've seen it get so low the car is starving for fuel as I made my left hand turns but the fuel light never comes on. I just go by mileage.. At around a half a tank I can get around 205 miles before I need to really seek a fueling station.

anyone know what type of compressor the 95 Legacy has? scroll? However I was going to run some UV in this morning but it does not seem like the temps will get above 32F today and it will be in the 30's for just about the whole forthcoming week. wont the cold weather throw off the readings? And the compressor has a cut off of 60F or something like that?

yeah what they said sometimes snow will turn into ice on the backside of the wheel and it will get worst the faster you go, just pull over and knock it out.. If you have no snow then it's one of the other things listed.

lol I like how they cover up the wrx come on now.. don't they know most people know whats under all that?

I'm still trying to picture how using a timing belt on the cam.. I just can't figure out how that works.. I think Im going to buy a chain wrench.

I just wanted to know if I could fit one of those quick drain valves on

where is the G sensor on the 95 Legacy? when my car got soaked inside I had to pull everything out to dry including the ABS computer under the passenger seat (it's at an angle between the seat and door seal) and the ECU. I did open the case to dry it out (water got inside) but before I did that it was giving me a fit.. the best way I could describe it acting before it got dried out was the brake petal got solid as a rock and moving along at like 5 mph and just lightly tapping the brakes the wheel would skid. Anyways I'm glad that's past and wont do that again But anything here? I've driven on some roads where the road got iced up.. and I guess if you get the brakes just right you can lock up all 4 and the ABS thinks the car is slowing down without skidding.

I just brought a replacement aftermarket bolt seems a bit smaller the new pan uses 13mm for the bolt.

yeah that's what I was thinking too I rather be a little over.

yeah like I said before I brought the can like 5 months ago BEFORE I decided to just do everything.. I might replace the evaporator along with the expansion valve. Looking at the service manual here I think I might be buying just the oil and not the oil/R134a mix I hope this works.. from FSM Evaporator 114 m (3.9 US fl oz, 4.0 Imp fl oz) Receiver drier 5 m (0.2 US fl oz, 0.2 Imp fl oz) Condenser 2 m (0.07 US fl oz, 0.07 Imp fl oz) Hose 1 m (0.03 US fl oz, 0.04 Imp fl oz) If the compressor is replaced (after stabilization): 1) Drain and measure the oil from the original compressor. 2) Drain the oil from the replacement compressor and refill with the same amount that was drained from the original [20 m (0.7 US fl oz, 0.7 Imp fl oz) minimum]. Always use ZXL100PG for the replacement oil. Hmm I just woke up but that seems that would add up to more then 2 oz of oil right?