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odd I have a friend with a EJ22 who had single port headers in which he decided to change his heads so he would have better options for aftermarket headers He said it would just swap right over.

my 95 legacy when I had it needed adjustment.. it was like that when I picked it up.. I got curious why it would always clunk off med to hard throttle so I lifted the front and put it in gear and turned a wheel and i got my sound. Setting it does not bother me since I would of had a spare if I kept the car but the sound was driving me nuts..

don't they have some phase 2's with dual ports? I'm not sure which models they are

Not my outback but I was told the clutch was just replaced.

wont shift from 1st to 2nd (car stalls out) and all the other gears are the same.. 1997 legacy outback

wow i did not think it was that involved..

wow maybe i'm reading wrong but the whole transmission has to be opened for the axle seals? I just ask because these seals is what did my trans in, in my 03 FXS.

ah I see I would not mind a little quicker return to center with PS.

My message was not deemed good enough in the other thread... Anyways I want to know what makes a helical front LSD so dangerous over anything else? understeer?

Can you swap heads so the 99 Ej22 can be dual port? Given this is a phase 2 motor I'd have to use phase 2 heads?

finally someone answers back on one of the ads.. I don't think I will go with this one (1997 outback wagon) 5MT he says this direct quote from email "Basically when you start the car and begin to drive when switch from 1st to 2nd the car does a jerk and then stops. Are you interested?" I had asked what was wrong with the transmission because he said he just started having tranny issues.. I don't think I've ever seen a car do that?

wow i forgot that the 1999 model was the changeover to the SOHC I've got a trip out to Michigan next month on the 13th and I'm running out of options.. I still think it's just cheaper for me to buy the car and pay for gas then doing flight plus renting the car. i'm guessing I would need to fill the car up at least 2 1/2 times or 3 each way? last I can remember i got like 310-ish from the tank of my 95 legacy.

hmm he sold the car :-/ this other listing is up but it seems too much of a hassle.. key wont open doors or trunk so have to use the keyless and to open the hood you need a screwdriver :-/ http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2297070982.html What I don't understand is what's the cause of all these listings I see with a CEL on for misfires?

heh people always think I'm joking when I say that

gear oil really does come out of the tail housing? I guess because of that large oil seal? I never seen any that were super bad as far as leaks when the driveshaft was still in.

Those darn short skirts!

I'm going to ask him did he have this issue before he did the clutch or after.. if it was after what could cause that? i saw a picture on google and the angle of it but the driveshaft wont i have to unbolt it and let it hang down a bit? I'm sure it will be obivous once looking up at the tranny but heh but I don't have a subaru in front of me now. If I did go that way I'd get a transmission jack for sure

One question I'd have to find out if its because of the clutch replacement but how long can you drive skipping 4th gear? and the slave cylinder is that for the clutch? the transmission is not that big of a deal for me... that's something I wanted to do with my other legacy but I wanted to buy a used transmission and crack it open to put in a front LSD. how much does the transmission weight anyways? I did not find much info and the only one I found said around 150 lbs?

the car? 220K highway miles and body is fine with no rust as far as I can tell. says it needs a rear tranny mount but not sure if it's missing or worn out or what.

vac leak? flaky MAF?

cheapest I saw was $500 :-/ I'm not all too concerned about doing it myself it can't be overly hard.

A 5mt owner says it grinds and pops out of 4th gear most of the time.. I've never dropped a transmission but how long does it take? And i'm sure it would be a hard find to find one? the seller is asking $1500 btw with 220K

Wow never seen that but maybe its the wasted spark setup that makes it run like poo?

Does the knock sensor really only come into play at higher rpms? I thought I saw someplace on one subaru related site saying just tapping on the block with a screwdriver was enough to set it off? Never worked for me.

loong time ago when I had my forester before I knew better I installed bosh plat plugs in the car.. that car would misfire so much it was beyond stupid.. So I went ahead and swapped out for NGK I think coppers or whatever for the 98MY anyways car ran MUCH better.