donnieru

That's the way that I thought that it would work. I've had the one for the trunk apart before, just wasn't certain on the one for the door. Thanks.

So, my Legacy's lock cylinder on the driverside broke last week. My question is, what models are the same? I am willing to strip it and rebuild the one that's in it, and keep my factory tumbler set, I just need the piece that actually moves the locking system. If any of you know the answer I would be grateful. Mainly because it would keep the girlfriend from complaining. Which to me is a definite plus.

Thanks for the replies. Sorry that I'm late, I live about 4 miles out of town and I have to walk in to get internet. I would just swap the subframe but the I haven't been able to source one anywhere around here, 4wd or otherwise. I forgot my camera at home again. Scott I pm'd you.

Hey guys, back again after months of not being here. How're you folks doing? I have a 2wd Loyale with a major issue. I live in Ohio and my car's rear subframe snapped by the left rear wheel. Do you guys know of a way to fix it? I tried to slide a new tube inside of the broken piece, thinking that I could have it welded in, but it hangs up on a weld that is being a total douche about me getting it out of the way. I'm thinking that it's going to end up needing to have a whole new subframe made, down side being, my shell is melanomaed to hell and back on the rear. If there are any Ohioans out there that have a EA-82 shell they'd be willing to come off of, I'd swap all the good parts from mine onto it (which is almost everything-except the left rear strut). My car only has 107,000 miles on it so scrapping it and getting another type of car with a whole list of new problems is really a no-go to me, mine runs too great as it is. I'm open to inventive ideas, up to and including sticking my engine and trans into a non-sube shell i.e. a Cavvy or a Metro or Festiva or something along those lines. So any options that you guys could come up with that in mind would be welcome also. I was sorta thinking of front wheel drive pipe buggy along the lines of a neutered skeleton Brat at some point. I just need temporary for right now though. Thanks in advance and I'll post some pics up of what's going on with the car once I figure out where I stuck my camera.

Thanks guys. Now that I have some idea of what to check, I'll get on to digging around on here and see what I can find out to get this thing fixed.

Hi all. My girlfriend bought a 92 Legacy sedan AWD lsi with the 4 spd auto for 500 dollars a few months ago. It had a bad crank angle sensor that I modded to the later model cps. So it runs and drives sweet with only 125000 on the ej22NA that's in it. In front wheel drive. When it has the rear driveshaft in it and the 2wd fuse is out, it drives great also. On taking off with the awd on though, it has a slipping feeling before the rear engages then it gives a light clunk and goes. It feels like it's kicking out a little when you speed up after going around a corner also. Otherwise, it seems to work fine during normal driving. I was wondering if you all could point me in the direction of what might be out of adjustment with it. It has a matched set of tires, the tire pressure is set to the door placard spec. There doesn't seem to be much rear diff. play in it. I was thinking the clutches in the rear of the tranny might need a adjustment or something along those lines. Idk though, this is my first dance with the Subaru AWD setup. My car is a 2wd Loyale 5spd. Other than that, I like the car and would prefer she keep it for years. If the little fella has to be driven fwd it'd be ok. I want to play with it too though! lol.

Cool, thanks guys. Sorry to the OP. It is nice to know about these heads though. It explains a few things from my rebuild of this engine.

The 3rd gen heads with the box around the EA82 never came stock? My 91 Loyale has them and it only had 63,000mi on it when I bought it.

Hey. The green one is read memory for current issues. The white one is d-check to read old stored codes. The green is used to set the timing. Neither of them are supposed to be hooked together during normal operation. It causes the flashing CEL because of it being in test mode without timing advance and such. Connecting both clears the codes. They are used by being hooked up and the ignition put in the on position. As to the high idle issue. It's not just the normal fast idle when the car is cold? My Loyale idles between 2200 and 2800 depending on outside temp. when it is first started, then drops to normal idle after it reaches operating temp. Usually takes it around 6 minutes. If that isn't the issue, could it be that the idle is set higher to compensate for the load that would be put on from the normal operation of the automatic tranny that was in it? Like what it does when it goes to kick on the A/C compressor. it anticipates the load and idles up. Isn't there a wire on the ecm that tells it whether it is a manual or auto?

Crossroads gas station in Logan, Ohio sells only ethanol free gas also. Big difference in my EA-82 SPFI

I love you all. Thanks for the awesome pics:clap:

Hi. That alternator looks like the same one that I have on my 91 Loyale SPFi ea-82. From looking at mine it would be the thicker wire(your yellow) would be BW and the thinner wire (your green) would be WR. Great job on your FF1 btw. Can't wait to see the final on it. Been a faithful reader of your thread since the beginning. Don

I hugged mine today. 6 months and 5000 miles with no repairs 91 Loyale 2wd with 96900 miles

Hi. If you look at the disty it has a arrow on the bottom of the aluminum housing near the timing gear. That arrow mates up with a little dot on the disty gear to let you know where number one is supposed to be. Transfer a mark from where the rotor is pointing, to the ledge where the disty cap rides. Turn the engine until the tdc mark. Verify that the little hole on the passenger side cam gear is up. Now roll the engine counter-clockwise until the timing arrow on the flywheel points at 20. The little hole on the passenger side cam gear should be at approximately the 10 o'clock position. Drop the disty in and make sure that the rotor points at the mark that you put on the housing. When you drop the disty try to make sure that your bolts are evenly spaced in the oblong holes so that you can have full range of timing adjustment. As long as your engine is set as above, when your disty points at the number one terminal it will be at 20 btdc.