friendly_jacek

They can be fried when one uses uneven tires. So, it that clown has mismatched tires on all his subarus, yes they can all brake. That happens when the center dif is frozen solid from the abuse (infamous torque) and the rear goes next.

Would it be nice if original posters reported back with follow up? I thought it was a common curtesy?

Yes, not only will it prevent you from tranny overheat and failure during towing but also will prolong tranny life if you drive fast in hot climate.

The tranny oil pan based sensor gives you a slower, average and lower reading. The line sensor gives you max oil temp and shows you quicker temp spikes. I have mine in the line. Fast driving is up to 160F (i have a medium sized tranny cooler). Towing, especially when hilly, spikes the temp to 210-220F easily. I use synth ATF BTW.

I bought my pile at $4.99. Cleaned 3 local auto-zones (12qts). Plan to start using it soon. I am tempted to buy more, but have 50 qts of oil for 2 cars and a boat. This is what BITOG will do to you!

You mean former board member?

The coolant conditioner was an official recall. The first I learned about it was from mail from subaru. There is one more missing: 01 recall on O2 sensor. That site is not that great.

In some cases, K&N filters can foul up MAF sensors. Clean yours. There is no f***ing way ECU reset will help you if you have dirty MAF. Google for MAF cleaning, as it is easy to damage one.

Yes, this is the usual criticism for the HDEOs. However, you can make an argument that if you have an oil burning engine, it will burn more say 5W30 oil than the 15W40 oil. The Phosphorus content (cat poison) in light duty oils is roughly 900 ppm for SL oils and 700 ppm in SM oils vs. 1200 ppm in current delvac/delo/rotella oils. The difference in the volume of the burnt oil will easily offset the increased concentration and cat may see more P with light duty engine oils. Furthermore, the increased levels of detergents in HDEO (twice the gas oils) will likely unstuck the rings and decrease consumption even further. It's a win-win situation. The only problem with HDEO is decreased MPG in light duty service when oil does not reach the nominal temp (again, city driving, short trips, cold climate).

Dude, don't you know that they tear down the engines after every race? Racing is all about max output and not about max life!

For the record, OEM in my 00 was Johnson Controls and the Walmart's replacement was an almost identical Johnson Controls battery. This is south, north is probably different.

I had the exact symptoms with TPS malfunction. The TPS was replaced by the dealer to the tune of $300+ only to find later that it was a loose connector problem (recurred with the new sensor). I am not saying that you have TPS problem, but any lose conection to many sensors with give you tranny defaulting to limp mode with wierd shifting. BTW, ECU stores a code in memory even when MIL is not illuminated. Sounds like you dealership is a bunch of incompetent idiots, it was a case in my case, too.

I don't know why it is so hard to understand that the oil tem is not the same as coolant temp. Oil is heated by the pistons/cylinders (150C) and cooled by air at the bottom of sump (well, ambient temp). The net oil temp is somewhere in between, compounded that it takes at least 20-30 mins or 10-15 miles to reach the equilibrium temp. So, short trip, or city driving (90% of US cars) benefits from 5W30. Long distance, high speed (think autoban), high load or towing require 10W40 or heavier oil. That explains why heavier oils are recommended outside US. Look at you service and decide what you need. Unfortunately, customers in US get the dumbed-down, blanket advice: use only 5W30 (wonder why?). I use synth 5W40 in summers for a third year, since I do some towing with my 00 legacy. Can't say that I saw a significant difference in MPG compared with 5W30 (MPG sucks all the time). Thing is, that heavier oils give you more friction at the piston level but less at the valvetrain. These effects can almost even out for some engines. Boxers can indeed benefit from heavier oils because there is no need to have thinner oil to be able to pump it to the valve areas at the top of engine like you have in inline or V engines. Also, with solid lifters, you want to minimize the cam/lifter wear by using heavier lubricants and with healthy dose of Zn/P antiwear additives, like in API:SL/CI-4 rated HDEOs. ACEA:A3 rated oils are also good. Please feel free to disagree.

Dude, very funny. He meant a table with all the macros, etc. The one I use is mostly good for tracking MPG. You can download and modify from this: http://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18105 He labeled it Imperial, but the calculations are for US galons.

No, it wont. You can only look at the tracings from front and rear O2 sensors and compare. If identical with a hot cat (after a nice drive), it's shot (poisoned). Now, you have a 1995. OBD2 came in 1996 for most cars. You have to check if your car uses OBD1 or 2. Those are totally different standards.

hate to state the obvious, but home depot has them...

How about getting a good obd2 interface for under $100 and learning how to use. Probably better than swaping good parts. It is possible that your cat is marginal and cold water cooled it down sufficiently for efficiency to drop below treshhold. It is also possible that water temporalily fouled the sensors, wires, connections, etc. I past, I replaced a lot of good parts because of my poor traubleshooting skills. Many marginal mechanics operate this way, too. In retrospect, not worth the cost and effort.

OEM is the way to go; this is a good price, I paid $156 a year ago or so. However, based on my experience I would not be rushing to replace the sensor. Slow sensors was a big deal with OBD1 systems (pre 1996). Hoever, OBD2 was designed to diagnose bad sensors and catalists very well; so well that many states abandoned exhast testing. I replaced mine in 00 legacy with no results. You might want to look at your fuel pressure. Mine is on a high side, even AFTER I replaced a fuel pressure regulator (OEM). Incidentally, I used Subie Gal's service. Highly recommended. Edit: why you are saying rich? what is your LTFT?

Sounds like fuel delivery problem. Check for fuel pressure and check if all sensors are working correctly.

Sorry guys. Weak nerves...

it's very common for subs to have exhaust overspray with rustproofing. the smell persists for months. every new owner goes through this. Edit: if you see lots of smoke then its a diffrent story, LOL!

So...??? What is your point? I have that information in my manual, too. The original poster insisted on class 1 hitch, while I pointed out that class 2 is OK, too. FYI, the limit on the uphill and 104F is to prevent tranny overheat. Irrelevant if one uses AT cooler and monitors ATF temp.

There is nothing wrong with installing class 2 and towing up to 2000 lbs.

I also have RE-950. This could contribute to the problem since RE-92 are low rolling resistance rated (like most OEM tires) and RE-950 being high performance are not. However, I keep them inflated to 40 PSI that should more than compensate for the difference.

The inteface I use does not report MPG, but it can be calculated from airflow and speed. The maker of the interface is revising the software for me to make the calculation in real time.