simpreza2

I am replacing my rear struts and mounts on my 98 Impreza L because the one side was completely shot but I'm not sure if I should replace the springs as well. On my last Subaru, a 95 Legacy w/224k, the front left spring snapped one day while just sitting in the driveway and sliced the tire, thank God I wasn't driving when that happened. I obviously want to save money, as I'm currently jobless, but safety comes first. What do you guys typically do when a car has 180-200K. Is it safe to keep using the originals?

So I washed my a few evenings ago and let it dry out all night and the next day with the hood up and when I started it, everything was fine....for about 10 min. I had the battery light and brake light come on, along with the day time running lights flickering just like when an alternator is going bad. I have a scan guage and was reading anywhere from 12.5 (at idle) to 13.8 volts(when driving) I drove around for a day or two with no other problems and decided to take it to get the alt. load tested at advanced auto. The battery, alt. and drain test all passed. Test results- Alt no load - 13.51V 6.1A Full Load - 13.29V 9.2A Batt with car off - 12.71V meassured 660 CCA cranking voltage - 11.43V 145A The DRL are the only lights to flicker, when driving at night with low or high beams, I have no problems but the batt and brake light are still on. Another thing to note is that the DRL DO NOT flicker at idle, only when you push on the gas pedal. Do you guys still think its the alt. or could it be something else? Thanks guys!

Thanks guys for the help, I fixed it. When I put the intake manifold on, I was in a hurry and ripped it creating a vacuum leak. Shes all better now. Thanks again! And just to answer your questions...the EJ22 is from my 95 Legacy and I miss stated my earlier post I used a 95 intake manifold with EGR not the 97 EJ25.

I was reading that this should be an easy swap and a decent amount of people have done this however; I just put a SOHC EJ22 into my 1997 Outback (which was a DOHC EJ25) and now it doesn't idle or run right. When I start the engine it catches and runs for 10 or seconds before stalling. When it does run, it sounds like its missing or loping(sp) like a v8 with a huge cam. I can keep the engine running by giving it gas but the rpm's shoot up very quickly. I drove it a mile or so but didn't get any codes. I checked the vac lines and they seem to be routed ok. EGR had a leak that I fixed. Any ideas? Details of swap... EJ22 block and heads (dual exhaust ports) 97 Intake with EGR 97 Mass Air Flow and Intake 97 ECU

There are a few causes of P0420 codes. The big three are aftermarket header, exhaust leak, and faulty O2 sensor. It could also be a bad cat. How many miles on the car? When was the last time, if ever, were the O2 sensors changed?

Sadly, no updates. I lost my job due to the awesome economy we have at this current moment in time

I have used the PCI idlers and tensioner on my 95 Legacy and so far (6k miles of not so easy driving) everything is ok. I sold the belt in the kit and bought an OEM, not quite sure why, but I did.

I tired to get the other side off and I couldn't. Breaker bar broke, 1/2' impact didnt budge it, so I left it alone. Yesterday I measured to make sure everything is in line and square, which it is. And for more good news... My car is back together! So, yesterday I ordered a NAPA Maxdrive axle which they got in this morning. I just installed it w/ no problems. I installed it the normal way, hub side first then tranny side and put the pin in. When I lowered it to the ground everything looks perfect. I took it for a 10 min ride with no problems. When I measured the NAPA axle with the old axle it seems to be 1/4 longer but I think that was b/c I couldn't get the old axle to be either fully extended or compressed. However the inner boot is way different on the NAPA axle. It has 4 ridges/bumps/accordion type folds where my old axle and the rebuild only had 3 on the inside. I'm not sure if this is what really made the difference, but it looks good and she drives like she did before, so shes fixed for now. Thanks again everyone for the help and suggestions!

Due to our economy being in such great shape, I was told to take tomorrow off so, I'll return the axle and see if I can get the NAPA MaxDrive axle. And try to install it tranny side 1st, then put the axle nut on.

I agree its probably something stupidly simple that I'm over looking. I tend to think complex before checking simple stuff. I have had the car on the ground with the wheels straight and the axle still seems to be too short. I have not tried the 2nd option, I will when I get a chance. Advanced Auto, its a rebuild. The I tried the old axle and it does the same thing. The old axle also looks to be after market and/or a rebuild. The extra length is what messed up my "original" axle. I just forced it and put the pin in and drove it for 2 weeks and now the boot tore open due to excessive stress from being stretched so much. It was fine with the original axle before I pulled and reinstalled the engine. What I don't understand is that everything went back in w/o any issues, everything lined up. I didn't break or strip anything , for once in my life and now this happens. Its always something. :-\

It was not a swap, I bought the car w/ 220k and no service history, so I decided to do the timing belt, water pump, cam & crank seals, etc... along with the clutch which was on its way out. So everything is original, minus the new axle. The new axle matches up with old one I removed when working on the car a few weeks ago. Original tranny and the dog bone should also be original (I haven't changed it) The engine is fully seated, I checked and moved the engine around 2 days ago to make sure. There was no complications when doing the work. I have done 4 clutches, 5 or 6 t-belts and seals, and a decent amount of work on suspension. Never have I been stumped like this, or even seen anything this weird. I will try to measure and take pics tomorrow after work. Im not quite sure I understand how you want a pic of the hubs. Do you want it from under the car facing foward and up? Kind of how I took the control arm/hub pics today? It might be tricky w/ no lift, but I will try. Thanks everyone for taking the time to make suggestions and help. I appreciate it.

Probably sometime in the spring. I don't really remember but they have been on there for a while.

Nipper here are the pics you asked for. I hope they are what you needed. There are more pics in my photobucket gallery but most aren't labeled. Some pics look funny because I had to use my fisheye lens to get a wide enough angle to see everything. Underhood - R. control arm with wheel full lock R. - R. control arm with wheel full lock L. (both pics are with the female end of the axle on the front diff stub but not on all the way as seen in last pic)- You know you like working on cars wearing pajama pants when its 30 degrees outside Rust. You can kind of get an idea of where it by looking at the strut on the left hand side of the pic. -

I will get the pics you want sometime tomorrow morning. I'll get my work lights out and my good camera, so hopefully I can some some decent photos. And there is a small amount of rot on the R. side just below the front door sill, I will take a pic of it. It does not look bad enough to mess with any frame or suspension geometry. I can't believe this is almost 6 pages long. I guess I should have taken better pics in the 1st place. Now I know.

Yeah, I know. Its kind of confusing with everyone using their own terminology to describe the same or similar parts. I think thats what got some people misunderstood and arguing. The only thing I can think of now, would be that a suspension piece is bent or the body(aka mounting point of control arm) got messed up, but it's all ok. Im baffled, but its probably b/c my brain is fried form so much studying. Watch me get it in on Thurs. b/c I was doing something stupid.

I know its supposed to look like an accordion (sp?) and when it moves, as in turning the wheel and during suspension travel the boot expands and contracts back. Its just that when I pull the joint to get the pin in, its fully extended at that point, to where there is no accordion action taking place when I turn the wheel or put weight on the strut. I'm sorry, I'm kind of bad at describing stuff. I have ADD, my mind is 10 steps a head of what I can type. :banana: I have #14. It might be hard to see in the pics, its kind of hard to take pics under a car when you don't have a lift, but the differential stub is there.

So you are saying I'm missing part #14 (axle drive shaft) and that the retaining clip broke and is in the front diff. case? I'm done for today, I have class in a few and a final tomorrow. I will get back to working on it Thursday and let you know how it goes.

I happen to think all of our description skills suck, I'm confused, and I think some others are also. The pic that lostinthe202 posted and his description is correct. The male end of the axle is in the steering knuckle and the female end needs to be put on the male end of the tranny stub. There is no inserting any male piece into the differential. The differential/tranny stub is locked in place and is not moving. The circle is the hole for the pin.

Boot is in the same spot as the other side. They both have the same range of motion. It is a rebuilt axle but its the same as the old one, I took out before I put the engine back in. I tired to get the L. axle out but it didn't want to come out. I couldn't get the axle nut off (yes I unstaked the nut) I tried everything, breaker bar, breaker bar with extension (= broken breaker bar as seen in pics), 1/2" impact gun nothing worked. I didnt want to use heat b/c of the wheel bearing. I did move the engine over a half inch back to where the original nut outline was on the cross member and it didn't help. The pic below is of where it was before I moved it. Below are links to pics of the left side (w/ wheel off and car jacked up), if you feel you need to check it out. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/simpreza2/_IGP5841.jpg http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/simpreza2/?action=view&current=_IGP5842.jpg Any other ideas?

Picture of the insides of a standard tranny Another pic And I will check everyones ideas tomorrow morning and get back to you guys.

The car is on the ground and it is still "short". With the car jacked up the axle is not even close to fitting.

I just replaced the clutch and engine seals in my 95 Legacy. I put the engine/tranny back in my car and now when I go to put in the right axle, it doesn't seem to fit correctly. I can get the pin to line up with the hole in the tranny stub but the joint it fully extended and the boot is messed up. The only thing I can think of is that when I installed the engine, its not 100% centered (which I have never had a problem with on my 5 other engine installs). The left side went in w/o any issues. Any ideas? The pic below is where the axle "rests" with out any stress from pulling on it.

Its a stick. I dont plan on doing tranny mods or a body lift untill at least next summer when my brother, who is the welder in the family, returns from school. I did however get a flat due to my brother not cleaning the driveway after working on his car so I put his OB snows on my Legacy for now...

The lights are 100 watt Daylighters mounted to the bumper I made. On the top tube I welded a small plate with a hole for the lights. I don't remember how the bumper was but I dont think I will be easy to mount them to the bumper, especially when they are on and then you need to aim them. And they are not street legal but I use them on back roads when no one is around, I really dont want to hit a deer.

I recently purchased a 95 Legacy Wagon and decided to make it my offroad project. Im a broke college student so things are comming along slowly but I'll get there. -OB Struts -Custom Front Bumper w/ KC Daylighters -Boral Replica Header -2.25" Cat Back w/ Cherry Bomb Muffler I'm looking to get some new wheels and tires soon. I'll keep ya guys posted on my progress. Let me know what you guys think.