Niku-Sama

e-bay, amazon.com some times, used book stores, thrift shops, flea markets.' i have found most of mine in flea markets but the were also easier to find because of the type of car.

thats not bad, at the same time though when you dont have a compressor you gotta use what you gotta use... i would HVLP it my self but i dont have a compressor availagle to me at the moment any more... well i do but its a big scary lookin old one

you cant "dorifto" your FWD car

yea thats what i thought, but also we would just need ti pull the inners to get the transmission out, on the j yard car probally disconnect the inners and pull the fron suspension outwards to get the axles out

i have herd the EJ22E (2.2L) is the cheap tank and is better at handling power than the others. its a N/A engine but i am sure you could lower the compression for the turbo, some one suggested a cam grind when i asked about it but i wasnt planning on pushing 15lbs of boost, i was thinkin what every the factory loyale turbo pushes for a minor boost, mabe 30 40 hp bump

if any thing look arround and see what the best option would be, you might find that a forester engine isnt all that hot and theres some other motor out there that would be better for ya. unless you already have a forester engine sitting on the floor then thats another thing all together.

the manual i have (Haynes) says a few things about the axles. the outer CV joints are supposedly un able to seperate unless you have a special tool but the inners have a pin to knock out a spring pin with a punch to dis connect it from the transmission. dont know how accurate this thing is.

the coolant systems been changed up before i bought it. it looks like the electric fan was wired to be on all the time and then it was dis connected, the temp guage has never gone past 1/4 the way up. if i pop open the thermostat housing and find there is no thermostat i am going to start low and work my way up, the low temp thermos will be usefull in el paso tx or durring the summer in medford or, depending on where things wind up. if i pop it and i find theres a thermostat in there and its stuck open i am going to go one colder, if i find one and its not stuck open i am going to go one warmer and i am going to check the sensor repporting to the guage on the car but its not very warm after i drive all day and i pop open the hood. judging from the things that have been done to the car i wouldnt be supprised if it has a thermostat that locks open when the coolant temp reaches a certian temp. edit: ok the oil thing didnt sound right, dont know about your manual but mine says for normal ranges, 0-90+ F it says to use 10/30 10/40 30 F and under 5/30 it says in desert areas with high temps or "heavy duty applications" 30, 40, 10/50, 20/40, 20/50 may be used

too bad that EA 81 is 4wd, mabe they rolled another one out by now.

not quite as north as you but close. I'm in Arlington for the moment, if i cant find a job soon i dont know where i'm gonna wind up. thats a long story for another time though, i run up to Mt Vernon every now and again, check out thrift shops and been trying to figure out school well considering its a 20 year old engine based off of older technology than that i am pretty sure the tolerances arent too tight. 10/40 isnt exactly what i would call high viscosity oil, what would you use, straight 40? and then given the temp problems these have to begin with and then add its a turbo motor with a single row radiator 160/170 might not be a bad idea. pretty sure it might acually warm up then.

well 1 groove 2 groove would be i think but then theres this sanden thing, i donno. there should be a pressure switch in your compressor, if theres nothing in the system its not going to kick on, you can bypass it but i would be wondering if they didnt bypass it correctly.

well i think i am gonna wait on the hood and grab the fenders, they are rotted worse than i thoght and fenders keep dissappearing from the junk yard pretty rapidly lately. also the temp isnt ever getting past 1/4 up the guage and the fan isnt comming on so i am thinkin the thermostat is stuck or missing, what is a good temp thermostat for something like this? 160F? or is it possible the coolant sensor sending to the guage is shot?

yea that'd do it, i notice in other pics you dont have covers, you run like that?

what do you mean groove? like the pulley? and are you sure the compressor has gone bad? i hardly saw any of these with a bad compressor they just loose redrigerant after some time and then the compressor wont kick on because thers no pressure

yea FWD on a car that was previously 4wd is pretty blasphmous. i'll still give you a hand in the yard if i still can though, they want $50.50 for a trans with a $9.50 core ($9.50 why bother?) if it was temporary while you fixed the 4wd then thats another story

in LA they are more likely to crush any thing older, there have been a push every once in a while to crush any thing older than a certian age, working or not, driving or not, in mint or in crap shape because of smog.

alright seeing how i go to this alot i figured i'd do one for arlington. lots of new stuff. mostly EA82 and newer. row C 1 & 2 is almost restocked. when i got there there was an early EA82 wagon white with the egg crate grill and wagon wheels and an 84 EA81 wagon that has been in previous accidents but is straight and relativly clean. sunroof, roof rack decent steeles with ok tires. while i was there they dropped a red loyale wagon and a early 90's legacy: heres a list. Brown 84 wagon 320,300mi, 4spd, mis matched seats (one brown vynil) mis matched door pannels (matching the one seat) decent dash, engines all there, newer radiator (shiny still) White early EA82 wagon white (unknown year no stickers on hood) unknown milage, sat for a while, lots of moss/alge, wagon wheels are ok, interior is scary. spiders have taken over this car hard core, gross inside. engines all there, headgasket failure, has been hit passenger front. unknown trans due to scary insides and crap on the windows... Red Loyale wagon all there, slight tap driver side rear, tailight broken, i took driver side headlight. came form same place as white scary wagon but no spiders inside, new rad (single core i belive) headgasket failure aswell. 5spd Hi Lo FWD ok wheels and tires. the legacy was smashed in the front, its right next to red wagon. engines all there, i belive 4 wheel disc, FWD 5spd no milage. the old stuff from last time is still there, SVX is there its just a shell but all body pannels are there and in good shape with very nice paint but its just that, body pannels and not much else, some rear axles all in all there are about 8 EA82 wagons, mixed SPFI and Carbed, mixed Auto and 5spd, mixed 4wd and fwd pretty evenly. some D/R some push button some lever, its some good pickins for drive train in arlington right now. there are a few of early 90's legacys with 4 wheel disc, good for some 5 lug conversions. i'll try to remember my camera tommorow i am going back for some other things if the pocket book allows it

i say leave it an open thread, you know other people are going to put other seats in these things.

hmm i wonder how hard it is to blend it into existing paint after getting it on. the paint along the surfaces facing up (roof hood) were chipped badly and then just painted over, i am swaping the hood i belive so that would just leave the roof. mabe i'll try this on the roof after i fix a few spots

i think black plugs are running rich isnt it? mabe your mixture got knocked off some how does it smell like its runnin rich?

yea i notice that, there are a ton of cheap GL/Loyales on craigslist here and most of them seem to be something stupid like that. others are people who are just trying to dumpem because of something thats potentally easy to fix. although i am not horribly thrilled with my 82T i do have to remember its AWD and has an exhaust leak before the turbo, i dont think it'll ever outrun my 280zx though... hopefully if i can land a job any time i'll grab a scrap car or find an EJ22E and i'll slowly work on it and store it untill its "needed"

it says they bolt in with and adaptor plat in the ad though

yep it runs fine, idles a little low some times but after i drive it the idle evens out i missed the floating arround in the shed part, how much do you think you'd want for it? i've looked at removing the pipe, seems like a huge pain in the rump roast, i can only see 2 of the 4 bolts that it bolts to the turbo with, do you have to take the turbo out with it?

i am sure some where there have been 3.70's replaced with 3.90's

we'll see. moneys tighter than i thought it was gonna be and i have a funky sound out of the passenger side head too but i guess it could be partly due to the fact that the exhaust header on that side is the cracked one. i guess it could be caused by the crack because every poof out from behind the sheild is when i hear the noise in the head, its not like a lifter tick its like somethings loose, i wonder if its been cracked for a while and it burned a valve. dont hear it when its cold though so i donno runs really good otherwise, i am gonna change the oil really early (500mi) because i had the oil system open, the previous owner seafoamed and MMOd the hell out of the engine trying to get the tick to stop and now that it has pressure and volume i am sure its knocked alot of junk loose, might try some 15/40 aswell see if the noise goes away/lessens when warmed with something a little thicker when its warm i guess at the same time the exhaust leak is pretty loud when warm too